Neither Truzzi or Mazzarelli make fully handmade shirts or anything that resembles that. Their top level of make is what we call "partially handmade" with Inglese. The only RTW shirt maker that makes something that is close (still not as much handwork) as the G. Inglese handmade level is Kiton - and the price of their shirts is more than double the Inglese ones, with inferior collar shape and details IMO.
What a question. Do you really think that we would sell two different levels of construction with no appreciable difference other than the fact that one is more expensive than the other? What would that be, some sort of social experiment? A blatant attempt to gouge our customers? There is a significant difference between the two levels - one has hand-stitching everywhere, hand-rolled hem, etc... white the other has 5 hand passes. That's a couple of hours of extra...
Hmmm... I guess you could wear both depending on the look you prefer (M would leave a very small part out of the buckle, L would have a longer tail)
These belts naturally have a LOT of stretch in them because of the linked construction. Stretches when pulled and then bounces back
Yet, I have not encountered one customer of ours who tried both UAB and NMWA trousers, and did not vastly prefer the NMWA cut with the slightly higher rise. Every single person thinks the NMWA cut and rise are just right. Sometimes, things are just in my head - but this is not one of those.
There's quite a bit of flexibility as you can imagine, given that you can insert the prong between any of the links. We'd recommend S for a typical 30-32, M for a typical 33-35, L for a typical 36-37 Around the waist !