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Posts by Rory Duffy

Hey Styleless Chap,   Haven't posted on here for awhile. As you have bought your suit and are having it altered, and paying for the alts, I will give you my opinion.   I like a long coat, but wear high waisted pants, so it balances out.  My gauge is rule of thumb, when the wear fists his hands (like a soldier to attention) the thumb is in line with the hem.   Most of the RTW I see now, its between the wrist and the knuckle.   As for the sleeves, most prefer to...
What was the alteration?
This is a common issue, heard it called "Mangina", for obvious reasons. The are a number of reasons why this issue formed. It could be that the fly guard is tight at the base of the fly and is pulling on the seam. Cut the stitches to realise and check the front again. You're probably not that luck, it could be that the run from the bad of the zip to the fork is too hooked, in that case there is nothing you can do to rectify it. Or, It could be that the same run is not...
As OTC said, you need the cloth. You could cheat it. Take the cloth from the trouser hem and add a false hem. Back pocket is usually 5 3/4", you need two pieces of cloth per pocket, on an 18" hem you have enough for one pocket.
Check out the most recent videos in our series "The Making of a Coat". Andrew has edited a new batch, so more on the way soon. Here's a link to Andrews Vimeo channel where all the video are hosted in one place. https://vimeo.com/andrewyamato Thanks for watching and to Andrew for all his hard work. Rory
Hey Blong,   Do you mind if I ask, how much you paid for it?   When choosing a Bespoke or MTM tailor you must weight up how much you are willing to pay, verses the level of fit you expect. Well fitted garments take longer to make and need more fitting. I don't think Indochino is at fault if you fall outside there stock size unless you did a fitting. You must always expect to alter a suit after it made if its straight to finish.   When I make a suit for a client the...
Looks like knock knees, not usual with men who are typically straight to bow leg.The cloth twists in the leg causing the wrinkling at the knees as they are coming together and opening out for the feet. In bespoke this would have been allowed for in the cut of the trouser, the leg needs to be cut closed. However thats no help here.It can be alter though the process is a little unorthodox. Rip out the inside leg seam and side seam to crotch level, stretch the cloth on the...
A small price to pay when dressing with style. Probably best to stay indoors and crank up the AC. Luckily the cloths we use this days are lighter than in my Grandfathers time. 10oz barathea and ermazine lining isn't quite as hot as the traditional 17oz lined in silk. Evening tailcoats are open at the front and the waistcoat is backless so this does help.  If its comfort you are after wear a safari suit or tee shirt and shorts, not the best look at a wedding.
Hey Blong, had a look over your pics and thought I'd offer my two cents. Divots on the sleeve caps can be caused by a number of issues, too tight through the shoulders, too tight through the bicep, too long in the sleeve cap or a combination of these.Its probably too long in the sleeve cap, this is more common with men who work out, their arms bend more and tend to sit off the body resulting in less sleeve cap being required. Its sitting off on the left side as you said,...
I do cut and make most structured garments for men and women. Coats, Trousers, Waistcoats, Overcoats, Skirts, even tailcoats (Kilt optional). Currently I am making an Evening tailcoat, with a white marcella waistcoat and pleated high waisted trouser, and a 3 piece Morning suit with a DB waistcoat.   The clients plan to wear them at their respective weddings in August. Will post some pics on my blog as these suits progress.   Both will be cut and made in the...
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