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Posts by bengal-stripe

If I were you, I wouldn’t be too hasty in my conclusions.Here is a picture of the bottom on a bespoke shoe made by John Lobb (Paris) for forum member ’agjiffy’. There can be little doubt that JLP is one of the finest (and most expensive) shoemaking firms in the world. This shoe will have been produced over a bespoke last (from scratch), made for agjiffy and no-one else in the world.Here is another pair of agjiffy’s JLP bespoke shoes (presumably made over the same last)...
The constructive purpose was to show the both of you, how your stupid quarrels come across.But if you don't recognize that, what can I do?
We all love that movie, don't we?
You might have seen pictures of 'in welt' fittings showing a metal shank. But that's only temporarily, just for the trial. Occasionally a metal shank might be used, for a very heavy man and/or heels higher than the standard 1 1/8" (28 mm), but that's the exception.Also tarred felt is generally used, although, I believe, it is quite unpleasant to work with. I heard the story of an outworker (no longer in the trade) who disliked working with the felt so much, that he took...
A shank in strong leather (this a not a cover over a metal or wooden shank) and tarred felt as bottom filleris the classic method used by bespoke shoemakers in London's West-End.
There is Bowhill & Elliott in Norwich, producer of slippers under their own name, as well as for numerous shoe manufacturers under their own name. chap who founded Broadland was for many years in a managerial position at B&E.
Here is a video showing a turnshoe being made (by machine)Important is a turnshoe is constructed without an insole (just like in 'Bologna' or 'Sacetto' construction, although the latter are not turned.),A lose insole might be laid-in or glued into the finished shoe to give more stability.
I thought that thread was about Stephane Jimenez. Why don't we keep it to Jimenez and stop this contest about people's qualifications (or not, as the case may be). As nobody on this forum has ever met Jimenez, nor seen his work in the flesh, everyone's opinions are equally valuable or equally worthless.
Basically, the sole was done in two stages: There is a leather mid:-sole and a rubber out-sole.The mid-sole (maybe 2.5 mm thick) was attached the conventional way, stitched and (presumably) pegged in the waist. Then the rubber sole (cut from a sheet, not a pre-formed sole) was cemented into place. The rubber sole goes from the toe to the back of the heel.Then under the heel, there are two more lifts in leather and the top-lift from another piece of that same rubber.
You place the toe cap over the vamp - grain to grain (face to face) - so the toe cap points in the "wrong" direction. Place a seam within the stitching allowance and fold the toe cap back, so the stitching will be underneath the toe cap and hidden from view of the finished shoe.Same method used also for the curved 'vamp-line' seam.
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