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Posts by bengal-stripe

Modern tanning can make crocodile/alligator leather as soft as fabric. Here is the famous (infamous) Hermès "t-shirt", selling at a cool 91.5k dollars. http://www.divahair.ro/uploads/articole/original/articole_9057.jpg Consider the leather comes from really old and big animals (front and back are a single hide each), see how the material moves with the guy. I wonder if the thing is washable.
What about a seamless whole-cut? --- --- ---
Use a (fabric) handkerchief!Fold it into a long strip, put one end inside the shoe and hold the other end. As you push your foot down into the shoe, you simultaneously pull the handkerchief out.Works a treat. (One of the things my grandfather told me.)
The (outer) leather is left plain, the lining leather is hatched. In drawing a) the hatching indicates the flesh (underside) of the leather binding. So the two layers get laid face to face, then the binding is turned over the cut edge. Once the lining is in place, another row of stitching ("in the ditch" of the binding) secures lining and rolled-over edge. e & f is the same principle, but the binding is left loose without a hard edge.
Here is an illustration of various edge treatments on shoe uppers:
That’s where the skills of the patternmaker and closer come into bespoke work. The closer has access to the bespoke last during the closing (upper-making) process. Although the two lasts might have different measurements and so will the individual pattern pieces, the skilled closer will tweak it in a way that the differences are not visible to the eye while looking at the shoe. If you tried to pull a standard upper (where left and right are identical) over a pair of last...
Is Koji Suzuki (Spigola) now in a position to produce bespoke shoes within a reasonable timespan?When Suzuki became famous here on SF (maybe 8 or 10 years ago) it was not only for his shoes, but for the fact that the had a waiting list to get onto the waiting list.
It is not the 'maker's' decision how a particular shoe is made. All the details are specified on a swing ticket: shape of heel, number of stitches, welt cut narrowly ("just show stitches") or wider, finish of the sole etc.But JLL aims for a certain solidity, neither their lasts nor their making is the most flamboyant. Most (if not all) of the freelance outworkers work for more than one firm and they will tweak their technique accordingly to come up to the expectations of...
After all this hoo-haa, you've ended up with a pair of really handsome shoes. Wear them in good health!
I have never heard of a thrift shop where you can return the goodies and get your money back.
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