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Posts by bengal-stripe

That shouldn't be a problem, You can make the majority of standard footwear on the same (well-fitting) last.
The good (or sluggish) fit of a loafer is decided at the heel.The heel and the top-line ought to hold with a firm grip, just like a bicycle-clip. The heel (seen sideways) will be more curved and nipped-in while the top-line will be tighter as to prevent the dreaded gaping. (When you bend your foot, the top-line should still be tight and not show a gap on either side.) The great lastmaker Terry Moore beliefs firmly into a dedicated loafer last. His loafer lasts (or...
But the issue was about these types of shoes. If you re-read my comments, I said if you want to change heel pitch or toe spring then you come into more tricky terrain; the same applies to loafers. Other alterations are easily reversed, these ones are not. (Nevertheless, some bespoke firms do alter lace-up lasts into loafer lasts and vice versa, It is debatable whether this is ''best practice'.)We are talking about the man who has made Marco's last. He has worked for some...
That was ‘thelonius’ question, what makes you think he is interested in having a last size 5 (if that is his size) reduced from one size 7. He is talking about oxford, derby, demi boots and possibly a country-type boot. They all can be made from the same (master) last, with maybe small adaptations. He did not mention loafers. Some bespoke firms will use the same last for loafers, adapting it and returning it to it’s previous state for the next lace-up; others will make a...
If you do not want or need to change heel hight and/or toe spring, you should be able to use the same last for all kind of shoe styles. There might be minor adjustments necessary (for example a monk strap will need a bit more room across the instep as there are no laces to open, but that's easily done and reversed for the next lace-up shoe). As Marco has said, the toe can be easily altered, equally a last can be adjusted for a loafer, although that is a bit more...
Looks pretty good!
I thought it was quite funny............and appropriate!
Channelled-stitching of the out-sole.A slit has been cut previously and is folded up (that is the bulge you see in the picture). Then the stitching is placed as not to catch the folded-up section. Afterwards the cut section is folded-down again and covers the stitching.So no row of stitching will be seen on top of the finished sole.
Ryota Hayafuji - un-folded but not unfinished edges at it's finest:Obviously a question of choice, as the tan facing seems to have folded edges, in addition to slip-beading.http://hayafuji.tumblr.com/
Folding edges can be a fully automated process and has been, at least here in the UK, traditionally the trade-mark of mass produced lower end shoes. English bespoke shoes never had folded edges as a properly done cut-edge (skived, singed, edge-dressed and burnished) with slip-beading for the top line) will take more time to produce than a folded edge.To paraphrase Margaret Thatcher: "You turn if you want to, some are not for turning."
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