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Posts by bengal-stripe

The booze, the booze........an occupational hazard and.the short-cut to ruin for more than one talented shoemaker.
Sabbage (Golding, vol.4, page 202) defines "shover" like this:Admittedly, Sabbage's shover covers also the top of the vamp and not just the cone but it is essentially a leather fitting-up piece to be glued or nailed in place and not to be used with a wedge that gets banged or shoved in (where presumably the name comes from).It seems these days the term is used for a fitting-up piece that goes from the vamp point (or slightly beyond) up the cone increasing in thickness....
Is the term "instep cone" your invention or G&G's? - That fitting-up piece is normally known as a "shover" in the shoe-trade .Impress the G&G boys the next time by asking for a shover to be fitted.
Exciting prospects for the both of you: Now you can borrow each other's shoes. - That should save a bit of money!
After ‘shoefan’ has brought some long needed sanity and rationality back to the topic (thanks, L), let’s put all the hysteria (from either side) aside and let’s examine what we are actually talking about (in terms of measurements). To have a last ½ size smaller (or larger) in length is one sixth of an inch (or just over 4 mm). The Heel-Ball measurement is about ¾ of the total last length. Which means the HB measurement will increase/decrease by 3 mm (⅛”) if you go ½ size...
A thing like that (an iron) should help:
Talking about boots: Strap boots in heavy-grained Weinheimer ‘Odessa’ leather with hand-stitched apron and closed with Sam Browne studs (any relations, Jerry?) Norwegian construction with double leather sole. Just as the hatch-grain boots which ‘poorsod’ got from G&G a couple of years ago, they took their inspiration from the EG ‘Herick’. (I replaced the toe cap of the original with an apron. I like the way a continuous line meanders all around the boot.) Taking a line...
After that recent hoo-ha, inquisitive minds want to know were the fitting shoes gemmed?Photographs would not go amiss!
No toe-sprig whatsoever and on the right boot the treadline doesn't even seem to touch the ground.John Nelson Hefford (1851)
I have just come across this Japanese shoe site which carries an extensive interview with Shoji Kawaguchi (Marquess): http://shoes.bamboo-creation.jp/bespoke/marquess/ I haven’t checked out the site in detail, but they seem to have quite a few interesting articles and interviews. (Look up the site in google Chrome to get an automatic translation; although some of the English names, translated into Japanese and back into English again, can come out quite peculiar....
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