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Posts by bengal-stripe

If you do not want or need to change heel hight and/or toe spring, you should be able to use the same last for all kind of shoe styles. There might be minor adjustments necessary (for example a monk strap will need a bit more room across the instep as there are no laces to open, but that's easily done and reversed for the next lace-up shoe). As Marco has said, the toe can be easily altered, equally a last can be adjusted for a loafer, although that is a bit more...
Looks pretty good!
I thought it was quite funny............and appropriate!
Channelled-stitching of the out-sole.A slit has been cut previously and is folded up (that is the bulge you see in the picture). Then the stitching is placed as not to catch the folded-up section. Afterwards the cut section is folded-down again and covers the stitching.So no row of stitching will be seen on top of the finished sole.
Ryota Hayafuji - un-folded but not unfinished edges at it's finest:Obviously a question of choice, as the tan facing seems to have folded edges, in addition to slip-beading.http://hayafuji.tumblr.com/
Folding edges can be a fully automated process and has been, at least here in the UK, traditionally the trade-mark of mass produced lower end shoes. English bespoke shoes never had folded edges as a properly done cut-edge (skived, singed, edge-dressed and burnished) with slip-beading for the top line) will take more time to produce than a folded edge.To paraphrase Margaret Thatcher: "You turn if you want to, some are not for turning."
It's on this page here; http://www.aubercy.com/en/our-locations/contact ( at ) aubercy.com
That's quite possible, the design might have had a totally different name in the Peal catalogue.Centipede calls it "Windsor", but he might have just used the (well-known) EG name,
Here are pictures of the original Peal "Windsor" design:http://centipede.web.fc2.com/pealwindsor.htmltaken from Centipede's treasure trove (which unfortunately has not been updated in several years):http://centipede.web.fc2.com/Peal used the warrant "By appointment to the late King George V" right unto the closure of the company (mid 60s). I have seen Peal shoes with the (late) George V warrant and the Wigmore Street address (the company moved to Wigmore Street in the late...
Leather and Grindery in (Greater) London carry the French Lulu plates in various sizes:http://www.leatherandgrindery.com/Shoe-Repair-Materials-shoe-repair-wholesalers-shoe-repair-supplies/Metal-Work-Shanks-And-Parts/Toe-Plates-Segs/lulu-toe-plates-metalThey also supply the larger Triumph plates, as used by G&G for their bespoke work (not featured on the website) as well as various nail-on...
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