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Posts by bengal-stripe

So, now you know the hole on a crocodile/alligator belly is not "where the animal got shot" (see this video at about 1:30)
Like you, I thought once a whole-cut loafer is laid onto the skin with the toe pointing towards the throat. But I was told that, that the correct layout for a shoe cut from the belly (one hide for each shoe), was the centre of the belly corresponding with the centre-line of the shoe and the toe pointing towards the anus. (Whether that is generally accepted or a peculiarity of English shoemaking, I wouldn't know.)On T4's picture you can see clearly the hole in the...
That last looks exceptionally well: nicely proportioned, no gimmicks. It just looks "right" (which is the most difficult thing to do).I also like the pattern with it's high vamp point and snug top line (no excessive "sock cleavage" here).Did you make the last from an oversized "rough" or did you fit-up (enlarge) an existing last?
The difficulty in producing a seamless whole-cut is in the heel area. You start draping a big wet piece of leather over the last and you have huge folds of excessive leather at the heel. Then you start distributing those big folds into smaller and smaller ones, shrinking and compressing as you go along. I have never seen a seamless whole-cut boot, as the boot increases the problems of a seamless shoe. Although I have seen once a picture of a boot, made by a German...
Use some low-tack masking tape to cover the suede section.
Just wait, until I can find a nice silk dressing gown from Sulka,then I'm all set-up for my famous Noel Coward impersonation:On my knees, Mrs. Worthington,Please, Mrs. Worthington,Don't put your daughter on the stage!
Is that the method you are talking about?Now, that's a crude method if there ever was one.Yes, you might be able to channel the outer sole; although somewhat tricky if you go for the usually very thin outsoles of 3 mm (1/8"). Nevertheless you have to poke all through the insole and come out with your stitching laying on top of the insole.Apart from opanka construction, I believe that's the way they used to make peasant shoes in the Balkans.
This is the traditional “pump-stitch” in English (bespoke) shoemaking. How old that tradition is, I cannot tell you. It might be as young as early-mid Victorian. At least in my book, Victorian is “tradition”.The soft turn-shoes which had dominated Georgian shoemaking, went out of fashion and were replaced in early Victorian times with more solid constructed footwear, English bespoke “casuals” (loafers) and pumps are very solidly constructed. The heel stiffener covers all...
Albert Slippers in navy kid-suede with "French binding" in grosgrain ribbon:[/URLConstructed in the traditional method of "Pump stitching": [[SPOILER]]
It's a variation on the "apple peel" pattern John Lobb (ready-to-wear) has used for the "St Crepin 2009" An absolute bravura piece of pattern design/cutting. (And incredibly wasteful as far as leather consumption is concerned.)
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