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Posts by bengal-stripe

I believe that is the new box with the new logo for John Lobb (Northampton).Blame it all on Madame Paula and her "back to the heritage" drive.
Well, the operative word in journeyman is journey. After some three or five years of apprenticeship and having past his examination of professional competence, a journeyman would travel and work in his field at a variety of workshops for shorter or longer periods. The underlying idea was that experiencing different workshops and the different ways and techniques they used would widen his horizons and help him to find his individual way within his chosen profession. To all...
I might have thought the laces, but then, also the loafers (allegedly) contain synthetic.Here is an unusual loafer design, sporting a heel strap, made more than forty years ago byAnthony Cleverley for his great patron Alexis Baron de Redé, :And here is a modern re-interpretation made a couple of years ago by George Cleverley (the firm) in London for Jun Kuwana:http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/cleverley27/cleverley27.html
The French call a "classic" Norwegian (two side-panels, going from heel to toe, plus an apron) a "Chasse" (Hunting shoe)and the alternative style with separate quarters a "demi Chasse".http://www.styleforum.net/t/59831/j-m-weston-chasse-vs-demi-chasseFor the Chasse the toe-seam is essential, for the demi Chasse it is optional.
Take one of your Neapolitan suits (or even better, just a photograph of a suit), give ith to a tailor anywhere outside of Naples, be it Savile Row, the English provinces, eastern Europe or let's say Hong Kong and ask them to copy it. You might get a suit which has some Neapolitan features laid over the firm's standard fare, but nobody will be able to copy ("easy-peasy") that Neapolitan DNA. At best, your suit will be a bastardized version, more likely it will be a mess and...
Haas offers 'Novonappa' and 'Novocalf' as shoe leathers. The 'Novocalf' might be differently tanned or oiled and is shoe-specific.For leather goods, saddlery and watch straps they only offer 'Novonappa.http://www.tanneries-haas.com/fr/Tanneries-Haas-Chaussure-99.htmlDegermann lists the Suportlo' as suitable for shoes, leather goods and saddleryhttp://www.degermann.com/produk.html
As the name 'Baranil' isn't hundred miles away from 'Barenia', I presume the two leathers are quite similar: i.e. a chrome/veg re-tan and stuffed with oils, giving the leather a very moist and plump appearance. As you have worked in the past with Barenia (or 'Novonappa' as it's producer Tannery Haas calls it) how would you describe the differences between the two leathers?Edward Green uses Barenia (or 'Delapre' as they call it) for some of their shoe...
I presume it's a side-elastic 'Cambridge shoe' in a whole-cut apple peel pattern.Now that's what I call 'heroic cutting'!
There are two steps in the bottom work of a shoe: applying the welt and applying the sole. These two steps are independent of each other and either can be done by hand or by machine. If a shoemaker hand-welts means he applies the leather strip (welt) by hand. He then might hand-stitch a mid-sole and glues (cements) the rubber soles to the mid-sole. Most rubber soles (Vibram etc.) are designed to be just glued. The profile goes right to the edge. English rubber soles...
The underside of the 'flat seam' ('this side for split toe') is also known in the forum here as 'Frankenstitch'.
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