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Posts by bengal-stripe

We all love that movie, don't we?
You might have seen pictures of 'in welt' fittings showing a metal shank. But that's only temporarily, just for the trial. Occasionally a metal shank might be used, for a very heavy man and/or heels higher than the standard 1 1/8" (28 mm), but that's the exception.Also tarred felt is generally used, although, I believe, it is quite unpleasant to work with. I heard the story of an outworker (no longer in the trade) who disliked working with the felt so much, that he took...
A shank in strong leather (this a not a cover over a metal or wooden shank) and tarred felt as bottom filleris the classic method used by bespoke shoemakers in London's West-End.
There is Bowhill & Elliott in Norwich, producer of slippers under their own name, as well as for numerous shoe manufacturers under their own name.http://www.bowhillandelliott.co.uk/product-category/slippers/mens-slippers/The chap who founded Broadland was for many years in a managerial position at B&E.
Here is a video showing a turnshoe being made (by machine)Important is a turnshoe is constructed without an insole (just like in 'Bologna' or 'Sacetto' construction, although the latter are not turned.),A lose insole might be laid-in or glued into the finished shoe to give more stability.
I thought that thread was about Stephane Jimenez. Why don't we keep it to Jimenez and stop this p...ing contest about people's qualifications (or not, as the case may be). As nobody on this forum has ever met Jimenez, nor seen his work in the flesh, everyone's opinions are equally valuable or equally worthless.
Basically, the sole was done in two stages: There is a leather mid:-sole and a rubber out-sole.The mid-sole (maybe 2.5 mm thick) was attached the conventional way, stitched and (presumably) pegged in the waist. Then the rubber sole (cut from a sheet, not a pre-formed sole) was cemented into place. The rubber sole goes from the toe to the back of the heel.Then under the heel, there are two more lifts in leather and the top-lift from another piece of that same rubber.
You place the toe cap over the vamp - grain to grain (face to face) - so the toe cap points in the "wrong" direction. Place a seam within the stitching allowance and fold the toe cap back, so the stitching will be underneath the toe cap and hidden from view of the finished shoe.Same method used also for the curved 'vamp-line' seam.
Now that's a shame. Foster are due in Boston on 19th/20th of April.So last week's fitting would have still been vivid in vox's memory, helping the comparison. But in six months, lots of water will have flown down the Thames and the Charles River. (Thanks google, I had no idea which river flows through Boston.)
Here is 'voxsartoria' a day or two ago, trying on a pair of oxfords by Nicholas Templeman: http://www.voxsartoria.com/ I believe, he is also expecting a fitting by Foster &Son in a week or so. I'd love to be fly on the wall to see whether Nicholas or Jon Spencer (Foster's lastmaker) got the better fit for him. But then, vox might not be able to feel any significant differences.
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