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Posts by bengal-stripe

This is the shoe in question:Here are more images of that particular style: [[SPOILER]] It used to be one of Grenson’s bestsellers: 2-tie, plain toed, V-front in antelope leather. That design just screams 60s!Judging by the number of these shoes turning up on eBay, Grenson must have produced thousands and thousands of it. (If you want to see more, go to google Images “Grenson antelope shoes”.) Althoug I have no access to Grenson's catalogue, I would presume by the early...
Yes, that's the stuff I've come across: it's supplied cut, waxed, and comes in colours like natural, tan, dk brown and is tapered at either end, making it look like angel's hair.But be honest, that Dacron stuff is hardly environmentally friendly. Fancy in a thousand years, they pull one of those threads out of the ground., like a tape worm in all it's undiminished 12 feet length and say: "That was a shoe in the early 2000s".But, to quote Madame de Pompadour: "Après nous le...
DW - When making shoes (as opposed to cowboy boots), how do you get around the problem with the limited length of the Dacron threads? These threads are designed for inseaming cowboy boots which are traditionally inseamed from ball (of the foot) to ball. Shoes and continental boots (unless they're Saint Crispin) are inseamed breast (of the heel) to breast: they might even (relatively seldom) be welted all the way round. Unless they expanded their production program in...
Nope! - It's conventionally made. Stitched to the mid-sole with a bevelled waist. It's very neatly cut ("just show stitches"), you see the stitching on top of the welt. The Dainite sole is cemented on top.The Dainite sole is actually quite large (but it might have been the smallest size available) and, presumably, the shoes are quite small. Which places the studs closer to the edge than they are supposed to be. There wouldn't have been any space (without going through...
Bespoke makers use actually a different type of cover than the factories. The factory-one is a clear hard plastic and the shoes get wrapped by machine (I believe, never seen the wrapping being done). Bespoke makers use a stretchy, semi-opaque seamless plastic (or is it rubber?) which fits wrinkle-free over any size shoe. When I saw it the first time, I asked: “What, shoes with condoms???”.The stuff is very easily removed with a hot needle, anything remaining will shrink...
Zug leather was developed in the Swiss town of Zug.Die difference between Zug leather and any old grain leather, was the fact that the thrifty Swiss introduced some waste product of the Swiss chocolate industry (cocoa molasses, or whatever it was) into the tanning or finishing process. So traditionally Zug leather had a nice chocolate smell.Whether modern Zug leather still comes from Switzerland and uses chocolate in it's formula, I doubt somehow.
"Whole-cut" indicates the shoe is cut from a single piece of leather. The shoe has a seam: usually at the back, but it could be in same other place.A "seamless whole-cut", as the name indicates, hasn't got a seam. But a seamless whole-cut is a very rare bird indeed and not many firms/shoemakers are willing to take orders for that type of a shoe.
jjl5000 - you are right, EG changed the design of the "Chelsea" (and all it's variants like "Berkeley", "Cadogan", "Malvern") from "old Chelsea" to "new Chelsea". Although I believe it was longer ago than 7 or 8 years, it was probably sometime in the late '90 (while John Hlustik was still alive).It's not only the toe cap that got longer, but the vamp point got higher and the shoe closes higher up the instep. So the "new" top-line is less scooped out than the "old" one...
The degree of expertise (and the prestige that comes with it) is not determined by the length of service, but by the quality and variety of the work, the clientèle worked for and, most important, by the recognition of one's peers. Otherwise some chap in a local Hamburger joint, who for the last fifty years has banged meat patties on a grill is a greater expert in culinary matters than the young man (who might have been only for ten or fifteen years in the trade), who has...
Drake's in Clifford Street stocks a few SC models.
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