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Posts by bengal-stripe

Maybe you can point out the channel in this illustration. I can only see a scored guideline and then the awl gets poked through.You also state proudly (in bold and italic) "the way I do it".So now you say, that is not the way you do it. - Are we supposed to mind-read?But Delos (as the picture shows) does cut a channel and a chamfer, doesn't he?Maybe you can give us your assessment of Delos' skills as a shoemaker.It might also be a good idea to include a printed reference...
The Holdfast is about 3/8" (9.5 mm) with the feather being about 1/4" (6.5 mm).As far as I know, it is only the Italians and you (plus that Russian chap) who does not cut an insole channel("Inside feather" in the Thornton illustration). The previously mentioned Anthony Delos does:But then, he might lack concentration and practice.Go to Paris, ask Delos why he does it!
Here are two samples of inseaming the "English way" (Nicholas will know who the maker is) Insole prepared, ploughed and holed (the waist is to be bevelled on inside and square on outside) Fully welted for a bevelled waist. This corresponds very much with Thornton's drawings:
Looking very good! - Wear them in good health!Are you giving guided tours through the shoe storage vault(s) of "Villa Browne", wearing white tie (just like Adolphe Menjou)?I might book myself in to a presentation, one of those days!
Agreed! - "Then you really enter the realm of extravagant cutting!" would have been a better choice!
A whole-cut (with or without a seam) never counts the tongue: "This shoe is a 'whole-and-a-bit-cut'" .The tongue is hardly a main piece of the shoe upper and when cutting the components you don't waste much time considering where to place the tongue. You might be hard pushed to find a piece of leather that is not of good enough quality or not big enough in size to get utilized as a tongue.
I think that "seamless heel" is a bit of a misnomer.Both shoes on the left sport a (heel) counter, one without and the other one with a "dart". (A dart is a short seam taking out fullness, for example in tailoring on the front of a jacket or on the back of a shirt.). I wouldn't call either heel seamless, as one centre seam has been replaced with two seams more sideways. In a whole-cut you can put the seam where-ever you like, so an asymmetric cut and a side-seam is an...
Solito, together with shirt maker Luca Avitabile (formerly Satriano Cinque) visits London regularly every 4 - 6 weeks (Traveller's Club, Pall Mall). They were last here 14 - 16 May and are due to return 25 - 27 June.Luigi (son) is always attending and from time to time Gennaro (father) comes as well. My fittings for a jacket was done by Gennaro in April and by Luigi in May. The coat should be ready in June, so the final take-over check will be done by either Luigi on his...
Every maker (of whatever product) will apply his/her margin to the raw materials as well.If the leather for a pair of uppers in calf costs $100 and will be $1000 for alligator, the cost of your pair of shoes will increase by more than $900 (even all other costs remain the same). A mark-up of 100% is very reasonable, even 200% are not excessive. So, if a pair of alligator shoes will cost you $2000 or even $3000 over a pair of leather shoes, you haven't been ripped-off.The...
Forum member Nicholas Templeman, the first of the current crop of young Turks in British shoemaking to venture out on his own, has had lately a few nice write-ups from menswear bloggers around the world (who are all members of this august forum here): http://dieworkwear.com/post/119368700629/nicholas-templeman http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2015/05/new-bespoke-on-the-block-nicholas-templeman.html http://www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-nicholas-templeman/ Enjoy!
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