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Posts by bengal-stripe

Have another look.Basically the two drawings are the same construction method, one with an inside feather and the other one “Norvegese” in the standard Italian technique without a feather, just poked through the insole. (Yes, I know in the drawing the stitch should have come from significantly further back, otherwise it is likely to tear out of the insole.)But the main difference between the Italian “Norvegese” and the “Norwegian” construction is not featured in the...
It's quite possible those are not "Sam Browne" studs, but the principle of the studs seems to apply: small stud, large hole/slit; so the button/stud is easily put into place by downward pressure. The button holes look to me extremely large and stitched with thread on a button hole sewing machine. However it was done, it appears there is no need for a button hook.But for all we know, it's perfectly possible (to save the maid's wages) the whole metal work is simply...
August, particular the second half, is the traditional holiday period in Italy and it is quite possible the workshop was closed.Now September has come, all business should be back to normal.
It appears, apart from the two buckles at the top, all the other closings are "Sam Browne" (or button) studs with a corresponding "buttonhole" punched into the leather.http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/button-stud-11310-007.aspxNo need for button hooks, although the services of a maid would definitely come in handy.
"Subtlety" ain't the maker's middle name! If it's not Berluti, it must be Lattanzi.
Obama could have done worse. He could have copied one of Churchill's "Siren Suits"
It's a bar tack and secures a seam at a point of stress. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bar_tack Check your shirt from the inside. You see the folded over section is hand-stitched from the hem up. Higher up that section is no longer stitched-down but held just by the buttons. If the bar tack wouldn't secure the point where the stitching ends, you might accidentally rip the seam apart.
This is (to a greater or lesser extend) typical for leathers with a textured surface. It applies to embossed leathers as well as to leathers where the texture is part of the leather's natural characteristics. During the lasting the leather gets pulled tightly and over the areas where the greatest stress gets applied (toe and to a lesser degree the heel) some of the texture gets pulled out. I quite like that effect, but it is a matter of taste. If you cannot live with it,...
Let's keep it Japanese. Fudge wheeled work at it's finest: Marquess Shoji KawaguchiNice opinions you have of your colleagues.......so modest, so balanced!
How many experienced shoemakers have you observed working with a fudge wheel? How many of those had difficulties operating the wheel around the toe area? All English "makers" (and as far as I know French ones too) work exclusively with a fudge wheel.Here are two samples of wheeled outsole work, (Sorry, I haven't got a macro lens. That's as close as I can get). The first one is in Norwegian construction with the upper leather folded to the outside (which is apparently more...
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