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Posts by bengal-stripe

It's also called a 'Greek foot' and is considered a sign of beauty. Do you know whose foot that is?
The shoe museum in Northampton has on permanent display a seamless whole-cut made in the early 1900s by some chap who worked in one of the shoe factories and produced seamless whole-cuts as a hobby in his spare time. (I believe, the museum has a whole collection of his work in storage). If he did numerous pairs over a number years, he must have become quite good at it.I would guess, this man was not the inventor of the seamless whole-cut. Presumably idea and execution have...
As I have said, that overhanging toe is the characteristic element of the ‘Haferlschuh’, a shoe style which is part of the traditional costume in the alpine regions of Austria and Germany. Allegedly the toe shape did evolve to avoid the wearer’s toes being wedged in the toe box of the shoe while walking down the mountains.https://halfs.de/
No, not necessarily! There is an insole placed underneath the wooden last and in a hand-made shoe you can cut the insole either to continue flaring out (then the slope will go way down to the welt) or cut the insle straight at a right angle, alternatively, you can even undercut the insole then the curve of the toe reverses and you have an under-slung toe.(I presume that under-slung bit is what you call the 'hollow'.)In a machine-made shoe, the insole is presumably cut...
No, the toe is pulled down low and the shoe has a minimal toe spring. That factory is quite famous for their aggressively styled toe. Do you want me to give you the last number? I have never inspected the last, but I would guess, on the last the toe slopes all the way down to the feather edge.This is not a hand-made , but a machine-made shoe. That edge is not fudged but has a decorative wheeling.
Muddying the waters again? What's got that to do with changing the toe? - That's all we have talked about!Yes I have altered lasts! I'm have changed the toe shape, reduced or increased the instep (it's called adding a shover), I have altered a shoe last into a loafer last. Those things are really not too difficult. I can change my lasts, just as I can alter my clothes. But in both cases, I only change aspects of the fit. I wouldn't and I couldn't totally re-cut a suit,...
Nice insult: "A common Pitti Guy"
I was saying to shape the toe down from the point where the foot has ended, so where the big toe is clear.Let's say, the foot has an actual length of 10 inches, so the last will be 11 inches long. Shaving away at that last inch will not affect the toes, they are clear already. Just shape that last inch of empty space, do not go further back.Did you ever see and handle a current West-End last. I do not think anyone in contemporary London will go as long as Sabbage promoted...
No, I would not have lengthened the last (one inch at such a short foot is probably more than Sabbage's 1/11th of foot length to be added as allowance).I certainly would have had the toe sloping down from the point where the foot ends; not right down to the ground, but about down to 2/3 of the thickness. If we presume the last is 1 inch at he point where the toes end, I would have shaved away to reach 8 mm or so at the toe feather edge. Then, when you make the shoe and add...
Well, read through my post again:http://www.styleforum.net/t/187914/the-ultimate-hardcore-shoe-porn-thread-bespoke-only/2490#post_7495882Where did I accuse DW of anything in this post. A 'false bottom', or as it is usually called a "status shoe" is nothing derogatory (although it is somewhat ludicrous). Apparently, so I heard, Sarkozy had them fitted to all his shoe. (Any bespoke firm in the world, will make you an elevated shoe if you ask for it.)It was DW who, true to...
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