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Posts by bengal-stripe

Yes, they are kudu (antilope) and they haven't had any problems with (premature) ageing.The only problem was, due to the long distance between the stay stitching and the first row of lacing (some 3 inches), they tended to gape just above the stay stitching, particular on the outside. That seems to be a problem with all George boots as this vintage EG boots demonstrate (and I have seen the problem on other samples in an army surplus stall on Portobello...
Here you are!Don't forget, there is a 'lasting allowance' of at least 5/8 in. (15 mm) on the bottom and in front of the toe(which gets tucked underneath the last). So the vamp in the finished boot is not as long as in the photograph.Side view of the upper and the finished boot.
1) Overall balance seems offIn the photograph (but pictures can be deceiving at times) the quarters look distinctly large with the stay stitching rather low. The smaller the opening, the more difficult it will be to get the last out of the finished boot. It is possible that Cleverley was a bit too cautious and designed the opening on the full side to avoid any problems with the finished boot. In the photograph the proportion quarter to vamp looks about 33% - 66%. In the...
Just like shoes?!?
Fine..........Never been on horseback, let alone on a hunt, so I'm not au fait with the ins and outs of "The Unspeakable in full Pursuit of the Uneatable" (Oscar Wilde).I might take up riding and go for a donkey ride on Blackpool beach,
This is a classic riding boot:http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/Both samples come from John Lobb (London) but they could be from any European maker.The boot is made from three main parts: vamp, counter and leg. (Whether or not you use a different colour "top", is just a question of taste).Important is that the leg of the boot will fit as tightly as possible and will follow the owner's leg shape. This necessitates a fully bespoke boot tree to be available while the boot is still...
Gordon Scott was a shoe retailer on London's New Bond Street who stopped trading maybe 10 years ago. Many of Gordon Scott's shoes were labelled with the manufacturer's and the retailer's name "Church's for Gordon Scott". I believe they also had a 'private label' range. The difficulty with private label stuff, firms frequently change their manufacturers, they go from X to Y, sometimes for good (better product, more reliable deliveries) or for bad reasons (new product is...
It is my understanding that "Goiser" (named after the Austrian town of Bad Goisern) is actually the method of construction: an L-shaped welt laid onto the outside of the shoe ("Bentivegna" or "Tirolese" in Italy).The actual stitch used, plain or embellished with a "Zopf" (plait), is up to the shoemaker.
Here is the boot that won Anthony Delos the Meilleur Ouvrier de France Award:http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2011/07/07/pg-exclusive-first-images-of-masterpiece-by-anthony-delos-best-artisan-in-france/Delos demonstrates two types of Norwegian stitching (and three way of shoemaking in all) on this particular boot:The vamp, going round the toe, is Norwegian with the upper leather folded out and each Norwegian stitch sits piggyback on top of the previous one (like the seams in...
Nubuk crocodile/alligator is available from Italian tanneries and every bespoke maker (worth their salt) should have contacts to more than one of the exotic hide specialists (there are quite a few). As far as I know, the nubuk croc/gator is sandblasted and even if it is not in stock, the tannery might be willing to run just a pair of hides through the sandblasting process.English shoemakers (at least some) are very capable of making shoes in Norwegian construction.Here is...
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