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Posts by bengal-stripe

Andrew Gadd works mainly (probably even exclusively) for Cleverley.http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2010/06/bespoke-shoes-at-cleverley-part-7.html
Taking a scan is certainly quicker and much cleaner than taking a plaster cast, for customer/patient as well as operator/technician. Once youhave the scan you feed the data into one of the CAD programs for shoe and last making (like Delcam Crispin "Lastmaker"). Once you are happy with the last design, you press a button and the data is transmitted to a last making firm, using a digital lathe which gets it's information from the data, not from another last to be...
James Taylor & Son, one of the venerable London shoemakers (mainly orthopaedic), has recently switched to scanning. Steve Robinson, the current owner of the firm (established 1857) was so convinced of the merits of scanning but was unable to raise interest, that, almost like Remington's Victor Kiam, he "bought the company to use it". http://marylebonejournal.com/style/sole-man http://taylormadeshoes.co.uk/bespoke.html There might be a difference that Taylor does mainly...
They all call themselves "bootmaker" ("bottier" in French) for historical reasons, as until WWI boots were the main footwear for every section of society. Scheer in Vienna tops them all, as they call themselves "Bottier d'Art"The Foster logo was originally the Peal logo, which incidentally was the logo of another shoe- or bootmaker Bartley & Son which was "incorporated" into Peal in 1952. Brooks Brothers also used the logo as they had acquired the Peal name when the...
That’s the Delos/Berluti heel stiffener you are talking about That’s a heel stiffener which was removed from one of my shoes: I do not know if the stiffener has been pre-formed (blocked), or was flat and just mellow (damp). But from mounting the stiffener has acquired it’s permanent shape and has no intention to return to the flat state the piece of leather once had. It might not make a great deal of difference to the end-result.
Jun Kuwana (King Croesus of the shoeworld) has used his instagram site to show a family portrait (or two) of all his shoes: https://instagram.com/not_fashion_but_style/ Those are his ready-to-wear-shoe (apparently he missed a few pairs) and those are his bespoke shoes (55 pairs and another 3 pairs in production) Wear them in good health Jun-san!
Please, let the poor man be! - That's what Nicholas has to say about the video:A bit like the late Romy Schneider, who as a very young woman had her first (huge) success in three sentimental bio-pics about "Sissy" (Empress Elizabeth of Austria). Whatever her efforts as an actress, at least in Germany and Austria she was always identified with that part.Schneider once said in an interview: "Sissy sticks to me like semolina pudding" (Sissy klebt an mir wie Grießbrei)
They are samples; probably only three left shoes/boots. The last might have been made for show and is a stylized shape to look good and not to fit anyone in particular. (But then, what do I know. maybe the last does fit Delos' foot.) Obviously you cannot assess a single shoe for functionality.
Those are the samples Anthony Delos did submit in order to be elected. http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2011/07/07/pg-exclusive-first-images-of-masterpiece-by-anthony-delos-best-artisan-in-france/ I have no idea whether a participant needs to be invited or anyone can put him/herself forward to take part in the competition. Obviously taking-part was important to Delos (at least four years ago). He wouldn't have invested money in the materials and have worked many hours...
That's not a heel seam (which will go from top to bottom) but a "dart": a partial seam which is designed to take out fullness and give shape.
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