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Posts by bengal-stripe

"Iron" is an ancient measurement used for the thickness of leather. One iron measures 1/48 " (or approximately 1/2 mm.) The 7 iron leather sole will be quite thin (obviously intended for casual summer shoes). The standard thickness for leather soles is 11 - 12 iron (5.5 - 6 mm).Sometimes you see in shoe catalogues the thickness of the sole edge got measured in iron. That is the combination of welt, middle sole (if used) and outer sole.
I have no doubt, these shoes are genuine, but I don't think they are of recent production. I would place them somewhere in the mid- late 90s. The leather (only judging by the pictures) looks to me very much like the leather Church's used to sell as "Genuine Cape Buck" which is an antelope leather with a shorter nap than the 'reversed calf' of today. If the shoes are really made from this leather, than you've got yourself a pair of shoes in a superior material (presumably...
“Oedipus, Schmoedipus!”Whether or not they use celastics, EG consistently achieves a better moulded toe cap than SC (which can be quite lumpy at times). SC omits one important step which is deemed essential (at least in English shoemaking). SC glue the toe puff between upper and lining in place, then pull in a single step upper, toe puff (still mellow) and lining over the last.(watch from about 4:45)The classic way is lasting upper and lining (without toe puff), then you...
In your previous post you stated celastics are commonly used in bespoke work. (Maybe in your neck of the woods, the picture posted by 'barky' clearly shows a cowboy boot).But now you turn it into your favourite topic again, bashing RTW footwear. Leatherboard insoles and paper heel stacks are components that can be used, but where is your evidence they actually are?This we can agree on!
Of course, celastics are not skived, but you can adjust the stiffness (due to control of the acetone) within a celastic toe-puff: rigid at the tip and quite floppy at the end. The skiving not only reduces thickness, but also adjust the stiffness within the piece. I haven't got a toe puff on hand, but in a hand-skived counter, the thickness varies from about 2.5 mm to virtually nothing at the edges. The thickness of the celastic is the same all over: it is the thickness of...
I do not think a "heat form plastic toe box and heel counters" have ever existed..The most commonly used stiffener in GW work is the 'celastic' type:There used to be a "hot puff" method using (stiff) tar-impregnated material, which subsequently got softened in a heated press, but I believe this isn't used any more as the celastic is far more flexible. Certainly preferable to a "one -size-fits-all" and crudely skived leather toe puff. Firms like EG and JL use the celastic...
You can't remove them, just as you cannot add them to a finished shoe.The use of medallions or brogue holes is a creative decision by the designer/maker. They are holes punched into the leather (at a very early stage of production) and there is no way to remove them once they are punched.If you don't like that form of decoration (fair enough), you must find a shoe design, that doesn't feature them.
Don't ask me! There are quite a few howlers in the English edition (maybe even in all editions):Page 100: (on shell cordovan).....only two small ovals or circles or circles of leather measuring aprox. 30 square feet (3 sq meters) from the rear.....(Obviously, those shells came from the Trojan horse!!!)Page 101: (on lizard skin).....when stretched out, a lizard leather measures about 10 square feet (1 sq meter). That means that at least three or four lizard skins are needed...
That might well be a mistranslation, as the Vass book was originally published in Germany.In German-language shoemaking the word "stitch" (stich) means a Paris Point, which is 6.67 mm. In German/Austrian/Hungarian work, 1/2 "stitch" (1/2 PP = 3.3 mm, or 7 1/2spi) for out-soling is considered good quality work., Coming to the inside of the square waist, the usual practice is to increase the stitch length to about 5 mm = 5spi). I have never seen finer work in...
I met-up yesterday with Shoji and Yuriko Kawaguchi, the husband and wife team who have started their own bespoke shoemaking firm Marquess in 2011. Although I had never seen any of their shoes in real life, I really admired the shoes I had come-across on the web and I’ve known of Shoji’s stellar reputation as one of the finest ‘makers’, having worked for a number of West-End bespoke firms. Marquess has caused a bit of a buzz at this forum and elsewhere, and quite rightly...
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