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Posts by bengal-stripe

Just bought two alligator hides, matte, 28 cm wide for a pair of whole-cut Albert slippers, but for street wear: longer vamp, welted (or maybe blind-welted) soles. Similar to EG "Bamford" (without the medallion) Currently at he closer, hopefully I will have the shoes come April/May.
I read a few years back that there had been feature about Brunelle on French TV and he was shown to make the boot trees for the "Crazy Horse" Cabaret in Paris. After that he had been inundated by drag queens and female impersonators to make trees for their costume boots (size 11 with 6 inch heels, presumably).So he does take on private clients.http://hervebrunelleformesetembauchoirs.fr/index.phpBut as far as I know, he only makes bespoke trees, fitted to a particular...
What's the priority, books or booze? - Booze has been the downfall of quite a few talented shoemakers!P.S. Your colleague "the talented Mr W" has posted this as his ultimate goal recently on his instagram page:"One must follow in the footsteps of successful British shoemakers and die as broke alcoholics with questionable social skills."
Maftei's site seems to be down. Here is another picture of the same shoe taken from "claymoorlist":In Vienna they call the style "Archduke Johann". It is a 'half-cut' shoe with a seam down the centre line and another seam down the heel.If you want to, you can eliminate the heel seam, then you have a crescent-shaped whole-cut piece, which will get closed down the centre line. It will be pretty wasteful as far as leather is concerned, but it is perfectly doable.
That shouldn't be a problem, You can make the majority of standard footwear on the same (well-fitting) last.
The good (or sluggish) fit of a loafer is decided at the heel.The heel and the top-line ought to hold with a firm grip, just like a bicycle-clip. The heel (seen sideways) will be more curved and nipped-in while the top-line will be tighter as to prevent the dreaded gaping. (When you bend your foot, the top-line should still be tight and not show a gap on either side.) The great lastmaker Terry Moore beliefs firmly into a dedicated loafer last. His loafer lasts (or...
But the issue was about these types of shoes. If you re-read my comments, I said if you want to change heel pitch or toe spring then you come into more tricky terrain; the same applies to loafers. Other alterations are easily reversed, these ones are not. (Nevertheless, some bespoke firms do alter lace-up lasts into loafer lasts and vice versa, It is debatable whether this is ''best practice'.)We are talking about the man who has made Marco's last. He has worked for some...
That was ‘thelonius’ question, what makes you think he is interested in having a last size 5 (if that is his size) reduced from one size 7. He is talking about oxford, derby, demi boots and possibly a country-type boot. They all can be made from the same (master) last, with maybe small adaptations. He did not mention loafers. Some bespoke firms will use the same last for loafers, adapting it and returning it to it’s previous state for the next lace-up; others will make a...
If you do not want or need to change heel hight and/or toe spring, you should be able to use the same last for all kind of shoe styles. There might be minor adjustments necessary (for example a monk strap will need a bit more room across the instep as there are no laces to open, but that's easily done and reversed for the next lace-up shoe). As Marco has said, the toe can be easily altered, equally a last can be adjusted for a loafer, although that is a bit more...
Looks pretty good!
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