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Posts by bengal-stripe

I might have thought the laces, but then, also the loafers (allegedly) contain synthetic.Here is an unusual loafer design, sporting a heel strap, made more than forty years ago byAnthony Cleverley for his great patron Alexis Baron de Redé, :And here is a modern re-interpretation made a couple of years ago by George Cleverley (the firm) in London for Jun Kuwana:http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/cleverley27/cleverley27.html
The French call a "classic" Norwegian (two side-panels, going from heel to toe, plus an apron) a "Chasse" (Hunting shoe)and the alternative style with separate quarters a "demi Chasse".http://www.styleforum.net/t/59831/j-m-weston-chasse-vs-demi-chasseFor the Chasse the toe-seam is essential, for the demi Chasse it is optional.
Take one of your Neapolitan suits (or even better, just a photograph of a suit), give ith to a tailor anywhere outside of Naples, be it Savile Row, the English provinces, eastern Europe or let's say Hong Kong and ask them to copy it. You might get a suit which has some Neapolitan features laid over the firm's standard fare, but nobody will be able to copy ("easy-peasy") that Neapolitan DNA. At best, your suit will be a bastardized version, more likely it will be a mess and...
Haas offers 'Novonappa' and 'Novocalf' as shoe leathers. The 'Novocalf' might be differently tanned or oiled and is shoe-specific.For leather goods, saddlery and watch straps they only offer 'Novonappa.http://www.tanneries-haas.com/fr/Tanneries-Haas-Chaussure-99.htmlDegermann lists the Suportlo' as suitable for shoes, leather goods and saddleryhttp://www.degermann.com/produk.html
As the name 'Baranil' isn't hundred miles away from 'Barenia', I presume the two leathers are quite similar: i.e. a chrome/veg re-tan and stuffed with oils, giving the leather a very moist and plump appearance. As you have worked in the past with Barenia (or 'Novonappa' as it's producer Tannery Haas calls it) how would you describe the differences between the two leathers?Edward Green uses Barenia (or 'Delapre' as they call it) for some of their shoe...
I presume it's a side-elastic 'Cambridge shoe' in a whole-cut apple peel pattern.Now that's what I call 'heroic cutting'!
There are two steps in the bottom work of a shoe: applying the welt and applying the sole. These two steps are independent of each other and either can be done by hand or by machine. If a shoemaker hand-welts means he applies the leather strip (welt) by hand. He then might hand-stitch a mid-sole and glues (cements) the rubber soles to the mid-sole. Most rubber soles (Vibram etc.) are designed to be just glued. The profile goes right to the edge. English rubber soles...
The underside of the 'flat seam' ('this side for split toe') is also known in the forum here as 'Frankenstitch'.
Although, strictly speaking, Sexton is not a Savile Row tailor (he is based several miles away from the row), stylistically and price wise he belongs very much to Savile Row. He is also one of the most expensive tailors in London. Also, Sedwell and Sexton have a very distinguished and somewhat mannered house style (which you either love or loathe). I believe the OP is looking for someone more middle of the road, as far as style and price are concerned.Someone like Graham...
That's a vicuña overcoat, as worn by Joe Gillis (William Holden) in 'Sunset Boulevard' (1950) In previous scene, you see Gillis being taken shopping for a new wardrobe by his sugar-mummy Norma Desmond (Gloria Swanson) and the salesman prompts him: "Well, if the lady pays, why don't you take the vicuña?"
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