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Posts by bengal-stripe

The number of stitches depends on the thickness of the sole and the type of shoe: it will be something like 9/spi for a heavy (or double) soled country shoe or boot; 10/spi for a town shoe (6 mm sole); 11/spi for a lighter "casual" (loafer), maybe down to 12/spi for an extra-light summer loafer.Kielman seems to adhere to what apparently is the standard in Central/Eastern Europe: 1/2 Paris Point (PP=6.67 mm), which makes 3 stitches to the centimetre (or 71/2/spi). (Scheer...
Short of contacting the closer and asking him/her whether the choice of different needles was based on design or convenience, we'll never find out. I based my estimate of 14 stitches/inch on the toe cap seam and presumed that the toe cap 'plateau' is about 3" wide. As that row of stitching you refer to is supposed to resemble very fine gimping, it might be possible the closer did increase the stitch length at this point.Currently the standard of British bespoke closing is...
Judging by the picture, it appears to me the closer has used a different stitch length and a different needle to do the top line and the main body of the shoe.The stitches along the top line are slanted and sit piggy-back on top of the next one (same effect asyou get in fine hand stitching using a lance shaped awl). To get that look in machine stitching, you use a "narrow wedge point" needle, I would guess the stitch length is maybe 10-11/inch.The main closing work seams...
It might look like cork in the picture, but I think it is the insole in the process of being "blocked" ("crimped").The underside of a properly made bespoke last should reflect all the "hills and dales" of the sole of your foot (unlike commercial lasts which are more or less flat). The first step would be to get the (so far flat) insole to acquire the shape of the last. The wet insole is tacked to the last, let to dry and has then taken on the "landscape" of the...
Yes, a larger waist will bring an increase in all the circumference measurements (hips, thighs etc.).
Any tannery can produce a "hatch grain" type leather (calling it whatever they want). All it needs is a metal drum with the appropriate pattern which gets rolled over the wet leather, leaving an imprint of the pattern in the leather. The Horween produced leather that AA Crack, (leather merchants in Northampton) offers is just one variation. Saint Crispin also uses a hatch grain type leather (no idea who produces it).Before Crack got supplied by Horween, they had bought a...
It's a bovine leather but it comes from an older animal.It might be a heifer (cow that has not calved yet) or a mature cow.
The outsole is stitched totally conventional to the overhanging section of the welt/rand.It's a plain leather strip (of standard length) and not really a bon welt, as it is not decorated (wheeled or stitched) prior to being attached. Once in place, the welt gets marked for the required number of stitches (in my case 3 stitches/cm or 1/2 PP), stitched to the outer sole, wheeled, dyed, cut etc.. like any other welt.Only the method of attachment is unconventional, everything...
I have a pair of boots which were made by that method (not by the same firm, but in the same town and one proprietor was trained in the other firm). When you rip off the full-length sock, you can see the wood pegs coming through the insole. (A long sock can hide many sins, no wonder why some firms are keen on long socks.)Method: Block and cut insole. Last upper with nails, than brace upper to insole and remove nails as you go along. Secure welt (or probably strictly...
only if - and that's a big 'if' - the hand welting is properly executed and with due care. Despite what DWF has claimed, not every one is whiter than white and artisans are equally capable (like everyone else) of short-cuts and sloppy work. There are quite a few crafty and shrewd operators around in the bespoke shoe business.I suppose, that would have to be called "hand-welted" - after all, that chap bangs the pegs in by hand!
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