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Posts by bengal-stripe

It is my understanding that "Goiser" (named after the Austrian town of Bad Goisern) is actually the method of construction: an L-shaped welt laid onto the outside of the shoe ("Bentivegna" or "Tirolese" in Italy).The actual stitch used, plain or embellished with a "Zopf" (plait), is up to the shoemaker.
Here is the boot that won Anthony Delos the Meilleur Ouvrier de France Award:http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2011/07/07/pg-exclusive-first-images-of-masterpiece-by-anthony-delos-best-artisan-in-france/Delos demonstrates two types of Norwegian stitching (and three way of shoemaking in all) on this particular boot:The vamp, going round the toe, is Norwegian with the upper leather folded out and each Norwegian stitch sits piggyback on top of the previous one (like the seams in...
Nubuk crocodile/alligator is available from Italian tanneries and every bespoke maker (worth their salt) should have contacts to more than one of the exotic hide specialists (there are quite a few). As far as I know, the nubuk croc/gator is sandblasted and even if it is not in stock, the tannery might be willing to run just a pair of hides through the sandblasting process.English shoemakers (at least some) are very capable of making shoes in Norwegian construction.Here is...
The scarcity of unicorn leather does not lie with the number of unicorns, but with the prescribed method of hunting. There are plenty of unicorns around (so I believe), Alas virgins, willing to sit-up all night in the middle of a forest, waiting for a unicorn to go to sleep in her lap have become exceedingly rare.
This is a long heel stiffener.while in a standard heel stiffener, both sides have approximately the same length, in the long one,the medial (inner) side is extended and “cradles” and supports the arch of the foot.As comparison: this is “insole up in waist”I have no experience with “insole up in waist”, but I find the long heel stiffener to be divinely comfortable and I am one who swears by them.Just ask for the long version for your next pair of shoes; you might never want...
Your extra raised arch-support on a “casual” (loafer) keeps me puzzled.I’m not a lastmaker, but I did convert my lace-up last into a casual one. Not the actual last, but I had a copy made and chopped the copy about, so the worst thing that could have happened would be a ruined copy. When I collected the copy and spoke to the lastmaker (St Crispin’s little brother), one thing he suggested I could do, was lowering the arch-support (filling-in a bit the concave section on the...
I'm not mysophobic, so I would call that 'patina' and I don't find it unattractive. After all, you have the same "problem" with fully lined loafers, as normally the lining leather is reversed (flesh side out) in the heel section of a slip-on shoe, to give more friction and less heel slippage.There are plenty of heavy boots which are traditionally unlined: utility- and hiking boots as well as the Household Cavalry boots.As these type of boots are traditionally made from...
I’ve got two (ready-to-wear) unlined loafers and they have held-up very well over the years. One (EG) is smooth calf, but the other one (C&J for Alan McAffee) is in reversed calf. The McAffee is from the mid-to late 80s, but as the suede colour (black) wouldn’t be my choice any more, so they do not get worn very often. Both pairs sport a toe puff (celastic, as they are factory-made), an apron seam and a strap across the instep, flat self-bound top line (which I presume is...
I believe John Lobb (RTW) has stopped using this sole with the JL logo integrated into the design. I seem to remember that sole has a proper name, but I can't remember the name. The sole came in two versions, one where the profile extended right to the edge of the sole, to be glued and another one where the profile did not go all the way to the edge (like a 'Ridgeway' sole) which was stitched into place.I have a pair of boots, style 'Hanover' (maybe 12 years old) which...
Here are a few pictures (posted previously) which show the the pump-stitch.Both insole and outsole are perforated with the awl to half thickness and the stitching meanders in and out of a tunnel without being visible on either sole: Apart from the old boy in Edinburgh who specializes in pump-stitch, there a few more shoemakers who can do it, but they do it so rarely that they, inevitably, will be out of their comfort zone.
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