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Posts by bengal-stripe

Just like shoes?!?
Fine..........Never been on horseback, let alone on a hunt, so I'm not au fait with the ins and outs of "The Unspeakable in full Pursuit of the Uneatable" (Oscar Wilde).I might take up riding and go for a donkey ride on Blackpool beach,
This is a classic riding boot:http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/Both samples come from John Lobb (London) but they could be from any European maker.The boot is made from three main parts: vamp, counter and leg. (Whether or not you use a different colour "top", is just a question of taste).Important is that the leg of the boot will fit as tightly as possible and will follow the owner's leg shape. This necessitates a fully bespoke boot tree to be available while the boot is still...
Gordon Scott was a shoe retailer on London's New Bond Street who stopped trading maybe 10 years ago. Many of Gordon Scott's shoes were labelled with the manufacturer's and the retailer's name "Church's for Gordon Scott". I believe they also had a 'private label' range. The difficulty with private label stuff, firms frequently change their manufacturers, they go from X to Y, sometimes for good (better product, more reliable deliveries) or for bad reasons (new product is...
It is my understanding that "Goiser" (named after the Austrian town of Bad Goisern) is actually the method of construction: an L-shaped welt laid onto the outside of the shoe ("Bentivegna" or "Tirolese" in Italy).The actual stitch used, plain or embellished with a "Zopf" (plait), is up to the shoemaker.
Here is the boot that won Anthony Delos the Meilleur Ouvrier de France Award:http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2011/07/07/pg-exclusive-first-images-of-masterpiece-by-anthony-delos-best-artisan-in-france/Delos demonstrates two types of Norwegian stitching (and three way of shoemaking in all) on this particular boot:The vamp, going round the toe, is Norwegian with the upper leather folded out and each Norwegian stitch sits piggyback on top of the previous one (like the seams in...
Nubuk crocodile/alligator is available from Italian tanneries and every bespoke maker (worth their salt) should have contacts to more than one of the exotic hide specialists (there are quite a few). As far as I know, the nubuk croc/gator is sandblasted and even if it is not in stock, the tannery might be willing to run just a pair of hides through the sandblasting process.English shoemakers (at least some) are very capable of making shoes in Norwegian construction.Here is...
The scarcity of unicorn leather does not lie with the number of unicorns, but with the prescribed method of hunting. There are plenty of unicorns around (so I believe), Alas virgins, willing to sit-up all night in the middle of a forest, waiting for a unicorn to go to sleep in her lap have become exceedingly rare.
This is a long heel stiffener.while in a standard heel stiffener, both sides have approximately the same length, in the long one,the medial (inner) side is extended and “cradles” and supports the arch of the foot.As comparison: this is “insole up in waist”I have no experience with “insole up in waist”, but I find the long heel stiffener to be divinely comfortable and I am one who swears by them.Just ask for the long version for your next pair of shoes; you might never want...
Your extra raised arch-support on a “casual” (loafer) keeps me puzzled.I’m not a lastmaker, but I did convert my lace-up last into a casual one. Not the actual last, but I had a copy made and chopped the copy about, so the worst thing that could have happened would be a ruined copy. When I collected the copy and spoke to the lastmaker (St Crispin’s little brother), one thing he suggested I could do, was lowering the arch-support (filling-in a bit the concave section on the...
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