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Posts by bengal-stripe

I presume, you have never met Donatella Versace, Giorgio Armani or Valentino (Garavani)!
Probably shoefan is the best person to answer, but there is a school in British bespoke last making that introduces a “twist” into the last: the fore part (ball section) is raised in the opposite direction then the back part of the last (heel). In the case demonstrated, the heel sloping toward the outside should have a ball sloping towards the inside.It is a bit confusing because Worswick in Golding 1934 (vol 1 page 245) states that the “twist” ought to run in the exact...
Anyone who considers to get the Weston 180 (or any Weston shoe) by mail-order - be warned. The sizing is weird! The shoes are huge in length and width (obviously modelled on bath tubs)! I take in the Weston 180 a size 8 B (maybe 8 1/2 A might be even better). My standard size would be 9 C. Trying them on is definitely required!
I had a quick nose-around on your shoemaker's web-page and here are your boots (or a very similar pair)It appears he has done the stay-stitches by machine, nothing wrong with that, many bespoke makers do it like that (and virtually all factories). English bespoke makers (and St Crispin) will place the stay-stitches by hand - 3 or 4 stitches using a much heavier cobbler's thread. I don't think the damage can get any bigger, as the entire row of stitches is broken, but the...
Good to hear you have pulled the trigger and commissioned a bespoke last with the MLM (Mystery Last Maker). Hopefully all works out fine and the fit will come up to your expectations.Welcome to the "Have last, will travel" brigade.
Before a clicker places the pattern pieces and cuts into the hide he will inspect the leather and mark all the imperfections he can find with a silver pen. Based on this initial assessment, he will decide on the way the pattern pieces get laid and cut.The first rule that needs to be observed is stretch: calf leather stretches more in on direction than in the other. The English rule is “tight to toe”, so all the pieces get laid onto the leather with the least stretch...
More shoes, less legs!
A conventional whole-cut (seam at the back) is not different from any other shoe, it is the seamless whole-cut that needs ruthless manipulation of the leather.http://therakeonline.com/atelier-luxury-designer-brands-artisans/gaziano-girling-bespoke-4-the-unique-lasting-process/Here is a photo-essay from The Rake that shows Daniel, the talented Mr Wegan from G&G lasting a seamless whole-cut. Notice the initial excessive folds of leather. They have to be lasted into smaller...
It looks to me the leather forming saddle, throat, top-line and back-strap is cut from a single piece of skin (no joint or piecing) meandering all around the quarters. So, cutting that piece must have been incredibly wasteful. For a ready-to-wear version, you would have to introduce several seams to that piece (which won't be the same).Who has left his signature on the inside of the tongue at the right shoe?
The two main rubber soles in English shoemaking have been "Dainite" by the 'Harboro Rubber Company' and "Commando" by 'Itshide'. Itshide have (recently?) a 'Commando Club'rubber sole in their program which is virtually the same design as the Dainite sole. (Maybe the copyright for the Dainite design has expired.)http://www.dainite.com/flash.htmlhttp://www.daviesodell.co.uk/itshide.aspThe commando sole uses a harder rubber than the Dainite sole; it is possible the Club sole...
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