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Posts by bengal-stripe

Muddying the waters again? What's got that to do with changing the toe? - That's all we have talked about!Yes I have altered lasts! I'm have changed the toe shape, reduced or increased the instep (it's called adding a shover), I have altered a shoe last into a loafer last. Those things are really not too difficult. I can change my lasts, just as I can alter my clothes. But in both cases, I only change aspects of the fit. I wouldn't and I couldn't totally re-cut a suit,...
Nice insult: "A common Pitti Guy"
I was saying to shape the toe down from the point where the foot has ended, so where the big toe is clear.Let's say, the foot has an actual length of 10 inches, so the last will be 11 inches long. Shaving away at that last inch will not affect the toes, they are clear already. Just shape that last inch of empty space, do not go further back.Did you ever see and handle a current West-End last. I do not think anyone in contemporary London will go as long as Sabbage promoted...
No, I would not have lengthened the last (one inch at such a short foot is probably more than Sabbage's 1/11th of foot length to be added as allowance).I certainly would have had the toe sloping down from the point where the foot ends; not right down to the ground, but about down to 2/3 of the thickness. If we presume the last is 1 inch at he point where the toes end, I would have shaved away to reach 8 mm or so at the toe feather edge. Then, when you make the shoe and add...
Well, read through my post again:http://www.styleforum.net/t/187914/the-ultimate-hardcore-shoe-porn-thread-bespoke-only/2490#post_7495882Where did I accuse DW of anything in this post. A 'false bottom', or as it is usually called a "status shoe" is nothing derogatory (although it is somewhat ludicrous). Apparently, so I heard, Sarkozy had them fitted to all his shoe. (Any bespoke firm in the world, will make you an elevated shoe if you ask for it.)It was DW who, true to...
Listen, that with the 'false bottom' was a joke. If you are honest, you must admit the shoe looks like a shoe and a half in depth. Obviously, humour is not your strong point, otherwise you could have answered light-hearted "I wish it were, but those are the real feet, they do fill the entire room of the last."A tailor cannot change your figure, but a skilled one can make you look taller, slimmer (or whatever you desire). A bad tailor can make you look shorter or more...
Everything for a quiet life - The shoe is beautiful and doesn't look like a bathtub at all!
The basic rule of distortion is that a high view point shortens and a low view point lengthens. So, you have managed to change the rules of perspective. Congratulations!If you say so! - It's only the photography that makes a perfect and well-proportioned shoe to look like a bath tub.
The one thing DW has failed to mention is the curious depth (height) of the shoe. For a size 7 bespoke shoe, the back height would be about 60 mm (2 3/8 inches). In the photograph it looks as if there is an additional inch hidden somewhere. It is the enormous height of the shoe that makes it look so short and blobby.But is it really the last? Taking into account that the shoe is a size 7, therefore the owner will be not taller than about 5’7” (1.70m) and as a successful...
A side seam (straight down) would be perfectly possible, whether it is aesthetically pleasing might be another question.In a seamed whole-cut you can place the seam almost anywhere. JL (Northampton) did produce in 2009 a whole-cut with an "apple peel" pattern as one of their St Crepin models.On top of my head, I can think of two non-traditional ways of making a seamed whole-cut without a back seam:There is (a very rare bird, indeed) in English bespoke shoemaking a...
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