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Posts by bengal-stripe

You might be able to overcome the problem by using a very large blocking (crimping) board, which means the leather gets pre shaped and you start cutting the pattern into a three-dimensional piece of leather (not a flat piece on your workbench).
So, that must be 'Winot' who couldn't resist the call: "Giz us a twirl" and is putting the boots through their paces.https://www.instagram.com/p/BKu-5kOADdO/?taken-by=dwegan1982]
What style / colour did you settle for? --- Inquisitive minds (read: 'Nosy Parkers') want to know.
Are you sure, your shoemaker suggested using upper leather as lining for for the vamp area?Lining the quarters in upper leather and lining the vamp in "horse" is the traditional way for English bespoke dress shoes. Never for country-type shoes, never for 'casuals' (loafers). Traditionally this was restricted only to black shoes (if it wasn't black, it wasn't a dress shoe). 'Opera pumps' and other evening shoes were traditionally lined in bright red kid, echoing the red...
There is one big difference which you haven't mentioned so far: one shoemaker (Shoji/Marquess) uses a fudge wheel, while Yohei employs a stitch-marker. The look is quite different, the fudge wheeled welt has a chamfer on the outside, while with the stitch-marker the ridges get cut off abruptly. Now DW will come in singing the praises of the stitch-marker (because he uses it), you might find that welt 'more distinct' but I find it a rather crude method. (I presume the...
Those shoes were made somewhere between 1972 (or so) when the firm gained the Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales and early 2000s when they lost the Warrant from the Queen. As the shoes are in pretty good nick, I would place them into the late 90s. The cities listed won't help, as Lobb quotes them to this day, although the Paris branch was sold back in 1976 and, as far as I know, never had a brick-and-mortar presence in New York.86748 is the production number and by...
That should help: https://www.fabric-house.eu/fbh/en/cms/textileabbreviations
I'm afraid, I won't be signing-up anywhere just to read something. - Only a good idea for those who don't get enough spam.
Roaming the net (as one does if one got nothing better to do) I've just come across Tetsuya Sirakashi who seems to be the most amazing boot maker, signing his work with the brand icon: a fly On his webpage http://www.shirakashi.jp/index.html he presents five versions of a derby boot from 'fly weight' (dress shoe weight) to 'heavy weight'. The images rotate and he specifies every detail of the individual...
If you have a look through the Weinheimer catalogue, you'll find that virtually all leathers are chrome tanned with an additional veg re-tan, but not the classic black box calf. This is solely chrome tanned with a casein finish and albumin glazed (not sure what casein and albumin bring to the party).http://weinheimer-leder.com/en/products/classic/box-calf/Maybe chrome tanning isn't that bad after all.
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