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Posts by bengal-stripe

The shoes are in classic moccasin construction, where one piece of leather goes all under the foot and up the sides. A second piece (the 'apron') covers the top of the foot. The seam you see is the constructional one that holds the shoe together. As a moccasin (where sole and actual shoes are from the same leather) is very vulnerable on modern road surfaces (we don't walk long stretches over grassland anymore) an additional outsole gets attached to make the shoes stronger.
I have seen it (occasionally) on 'black tie' oxfords and I quite like it, as the matte, ribbed texture gives a nice contrast to the high-shine patent- or smooth leather. If I ever were to commission a pair of evening shoes (highly unlikely,as I don't have a dinner jacket right now and I feel no urge to get one) that's probably something I would choose.chacun à son goût
Here is an illustration of various edge treatments:Grosgrain/Petersham ribbon gets sometimes used as 'French binding' on evening shoes, as the texture picks up the texture on other parts of the formal outfit (lapel facings, ribbon down the trouser legs.)
Pricking irons (the fork-like tool) mark the desired distance of the stitches, but do not cut the actual hole; that's the job of the awl. Pricking irons come in various configurations,6 / 8 / 10 / 12 etc. stitches per inch and you place the tool onto the leather and give it a gentle hammerblow. Each prong will leave a small indentation in the leather which shows where to place the awl.You do the marking first while the leather is still flat on the workbench.Then you start...
That's good to hear! - I was already worried you might have to go without shoes..
I'm not sure what you call 'plated' leather, but it looks like you are referring to what is usually known as 'glazed' leather where leather is polished with a glass roller ('glazing jack') under high pressure.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glazing_jackI just checked their catalogue, Weinheimer's (Freudenberg) box calf is glazed and so are presumably similar products from other tanneries. Without having ever enquired about it, I would say the black calf leather used by EG is...
Corrected!
What a disappointment! --- I had presumed (naturally), all the four pairs would be yours.
You are right, in the most recent version I had made, the stitching goes through one layer of the bellow tongue. But for whatever reason, the bellow tongue on Edward Green's 'Herrick' version is left to 'swing'.(Those 'Herricks' inspired not only my boots but also the boots Jun Kuwana (Foster) and 'poorsod' (G&G) have had made over the last couple of years.)
Maybe those drawings explain it.It’s a kind of booty version of a classic field boot. Main difference the booty opens right up to the top (having two quarters), while the classic version uses a one-piece leg, cut in the lower part to facilitate easier access than a classic riding boot.See how the three pieces fit like a jigsaw puzzle..The only ‘decorative’ seam is the line of stitching going around the eyelets (and even that seam might keep some reinforcement materials in...
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