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Posts by bengal-stripe

Try 'Pinnas and Needles' in Soho http://pinnasandneedles.com/ I did pick up my first job with them earlier today and I am pleased with the work. They're an old favourite of the forum here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/252266/great-alteration-tailors-in-london-pinnas-and-needles
Preferably your man-servant will do it. Otherwise you'll need a deer bone, fat and lots of elbow grease.Think of it like using lots of pomade and heavy brushing on your hair. The individual strands of hair will stick together and get turned into a shiny cap.
There is a classic Austrian shoe, called 'Archduke Johann' which is half-cut with a seam on the vamp and down the heel.Here is Scheer's version of that particular design:http://www.scheer.at/The St Crispin version is a whole-cut with a decorative (non-functional) seam on top of the vamp.Similar look, but different pattern.
Berluti, like other LVMH companies, pride themselves never to take part in the sales and never to reduce their merchandise.But for the last few sales (at least in London, don't know about Paris), Berluti had significant mark-downs on their clothing collection(but not on their shoes).
You better take the day off tomorrow, as you probably will be dreadfully jet-legged!
But the tight-fitting heel and top-line is the difference between a loafer last and a last for lace-up shoes. Heel-slippage and a gaping top-line are the signs of a badly fitting loafer. To make sure the loafer clips into the back of the foot like a bicycle trouser clip (and stays put throughout the day) you make the profil of the heel more curved-in (in the top section) and you also tighten the top-line so the opening is more triangular (less round) towards the heel end....
"First we take Manhattan, then we take Berlin!"
I've posted this before; here is a product from an Estonian tannery who claims to have rediscovered the historical Russian method, using willow bark and birch oil: http://tripleskin.com/en/projects/yufte/ Apparently, so the story goes, the tanning of the legendary Cuir de Russie was a highly protected state secret. Different steps of the process were carried out at different locations, so nobody knew the all-over recipe. The link between the individual steps got lost...
I don't think there is a hard and fast rule how high the pockets ought to sit: some tailors/ designers will cut them higher, others a bit lower. But, presuming you are about average hight, 6 1/2" does sound very low. You only can shorten a jacket something like an inch at the most, otherwise pockets and buttoning point will be too low and the whole coat might look out of proportions.
Really neat apron-stitching! I also like the square waist (which has become quite a rare bird in English bespoke shoemaking) and the light touch at staining welt, sole-edge and and heel.
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