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Posts by bengal-stripe

Judging by the picture, it appears to me the closer has used a different stitch length and a different needle to do the top line and the main body of the shoe.The stitches along the top line are slanted and sit piggy-back on top of the next one (same effect asyou get in fine hand stitching using a lance shaped awl). To get that look in machine stitching, you use a "narrow wedge point" needle, I would guess the stitch length is maybe 10-11/inch.The main closing work seams...
It might look like cork in the picture, but I think it is the insole in the process of being "blocked" ("crimped").The underside of a properly made bespoke last should reflect all the "hills and dales" of the sole of your foot (unlike commercial lasts which are more or less flat). The first step would be to get the (so far flat) insole to acquire the shape of the last. The wet insole is tacked to the last, let to dry and has then taken on the "landscape" of the...
Yes, a larger waist will bring an increase in all the circumference measurements (hips, thighs etc.).
Any tannery can produce a "hatch grain" type leather (calling it whatever they want). All it needs is a metal drum with the appropriate pattern which gets rolled over the wet leather, leaving an imprint of the pattern in the leather. The Horween produced leather that AA Crack, (leather merchants in Northampton) offers is just one variation. Saint Crispin also uses a hatch grain type leather (no idea who produces it).Before Crack got supplied by Horween, they had bought a...
It's a bovine leather but it comes from an older animal.It might be a heifer (cow that has not calved yet) or a mature cow.
The outsole is stitched totally conventional to the overhanging section of the welt/rand.It's a plain leather strip (of standard length) and not really a bon welt, as it is not decorated (wheeled or stitched) prior to being attached. Once in place, the welt gets marked for the required number of stitches (in my case 3 stitches/cm or 1/2 PP), stitched to the outer sole, wheeled, dyed, cut etc.. like any other welt.Only the method of attachment is unconventional, everything...
I have a pair of boots which were made by that method (not by the same firm, but in the same town and one proprietor was trained in the other firm). When you rip off the full-length sock, you can see the wood pegs coming through the insole. (A long sock can hide many sins, no wonder why some firms are keen on long socks.)Method: Block and cut insole. Last upper with nails, than brace upper to insole and remove nails as you go along. Secure welt (or probably strictly...
only if - and that's a big 'if' - the hand welting is properly executed and with due care. Despite what DWF has claimed, not every one is whiter than white and artisans are equally capable (like everyone else) of short-cuts and sloppy work. There are quite a few crafty and shrewd operators around in the bespoke shoe business.I suppose, that would have to be called "hand-welted" - after all, that chap bangs the pegs in by hand!
It's called "Littleway" in England.The name "Blake" is used in Italy, "McKay" in the States and "Littleway" in England. There might be slight differences between the three, but essentially it is the same method.That's how a Blake/McKay/Littlewood machine looks like. The last is (temporary) removed, the shoe gets hung over the 'horn' and guided "round the horn(e)".
Interesting demonstration how different camera angles or different focal length can distort a photograph..On the top picture the toe cap of either shoe looks pretty substantial. But on the bottom picture the caps look considerably smaller.I wonder, if these Matterhorn insteps Bestetti builds into his shoe are nothing but camera distortions .
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