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Posts by bengal-stripe

As we do not see the outside of the shoe, it could be either a large back-strap (kind of halfway house between a back-strap and a counter). Then there will be a corresponding seam on the outside of the shoe. If there isn't one and if the galosh section is wrapped around the heel like in the other sample, then the shoe would be side-seamed or side-closed.As I believe, Bestetti has a penchant for side-closing, it probably is the latter. [[SPOILER]]
There is! - His name is Rudolph and he has a red nose.
Are you sure about either Cleverley or the date? George Cleverley worked between the wars as front-of-house-man for Tuczek and it was only in 1956 that he left the firm and started his own shoemaking business in Cork Street.Quite a few firms which we still know about, Lobb, Tuczek, Maxwell, Peal, Wildsmith, Hellstern, McAffee (and a lot of others we do not know about any more) would have been suitable candidates for the period in question, but not Cleverley.
There is currently more than one "hatchgrain" calf leather around. As far as I know, an Italian tannery produced a leather some 20-odd years ago, which copied the look of the original Metta Catherina hides. This is presumably the leather used for those vintage shoes made by Ugolino in Florence: http://centipede.web.fc2.com/ugolini2.html For those who haven't seen the site yet "centipede" is a veritable treasure trove of vintage shoes (mainly...
Church's (like all English shoe manufacturers) used to produce stock items in a variety of widths. There is nothing unusual about man's shoe in a 'C' fitting, the width would have been routinely produced prior to the 1980s. The shoe in the photograph "Grafton" (although the markings seems to indicate the name as "Cotswold") in "Ranch Oxhide" has been in the Church's collection for yonks.My guess is the shoe was produced some time between the late-50s to the mid-60s....
When the wreck of the "Metta Catherina" was discovered in 1973, the Duchy of Cornwall gave maybe a dozen of leather-working firms access to the hides. It is understandable, that in the intervening 40 years a number of those original firms are no longer in business.One of them is the leather worker Athene Englishhttp://www.atheneenglish.com/2010/03/29/200-year-old-russian-reindeer-leather/New & Lingwood (possibly through the acquisition of bespoke shoemaker Poulsen Skone),...
Looks to me like the "Fighting Seal" that was at one time (1950s - 60s) quite popular in the Church's collection.http://www.styleforum.net/t/120769/fs-30k-brioni-rare-100-pure-vicuna-jacket-blazer-48-58eu-mint/45#post_2101540
Our friend Justin "The Shoe Snob" went up to Kettering to visit the new G&G factory and came back with a very interesting report and lots of excellent pictures: http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2014/02/gaziano-girlings-new-shoe-factory.html
Here is Carreducker's take on "insole up in waist":http://carreducker.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/insole-up-in-waist.htmlhttp://carreducker.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/insole-up-in-waist-2.htmlJames Ducker calls it "not a particularly common feature". I would say, this method comes originally from orthopaedic shoemaking, where certain feet might need a lot of support or built-ups.Whether "insole up in waist" in general (non-orthopaedic) shoemaking was more popular fifty or hundred...
In English shoemaking it is known as "Insole up in waist"and any bespoke firm (worth their salt) should be able to do this for you on request. They might not be too keen, as any mistake in the shape of the insole will necessitate a complete remake. (As has happened in the case of the photograph. The cut stitches show the insole was welted in, but was then redundant as there were problems with the fit. The last needed adjustments and so a new insole was required.)Another...
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