or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by bengal-stripe

This is a long heel stiffener.while in a standard heel stiffener, both sides have approximately the same length, in the long one,the medial (inner) side is extended and “cradles” and supports the arch of the foot.As comparison: this is “insole up in waist”I have no experience with “insole up in waist”, but I find the long heel stiffener to be divinely comfortable and I am one who swears by them.Just ask for the long version for your next pair of shoes; you might never want...
Your extra raised arch-support on a “casual” (loafer) keeps me puzzled.I’m not a lastmaker, but I did convert my lace-up last into a casual one. Not the actual last, but I had a copy made and chopped the copy about, so the worst thing that could have happened would be a ruined copy. When I collected the copy and spoke to the lastmaker (St Crispin’s little brother), one thing he suggested I could do, was lowering the arch-support (filling-in a bit the concave section on the...
I'm not mysophobic, so I would call that 'patina' and I don't find it unattractive. After all, you have the same "problem" with fully lined loafers, as normally the lining leather is reversed (flesh side out) in the heel section of a slip-on shoe, to give more friction and less heel slippage.There are plenty of heavy boots which are traditionally unlined: utility- and hiking boots as well as the Household Cavalry boots.As these type of boots are traditionally made from...
I’ve got two (ready-to-wear) unlined loafers and they have held-up very well over the years. One (EG) is smooth calf, but the other one (C&J for Alan McAffee) is in reversed calf. The McAffee is from the mid-to late 80s, but as the suede colour (black) wouldn’t be my choice any more, so they do not get worn very often. Both pairs sport a toe puff (celastic, as they are factory-made), an apron seam and a strap across the instep, flat self-bound top line (which I presume is...
I believe John Lobb (RTW) has stopped using this sole with the JL logo integrated into the design. I seem to remember that sole has a proper name, but I can't remember the name. The sole came in two versions, one where the profile extended right to the edge of the sole, to be glued and another one where the profile did not go all the way to the edge (like a 'Ridgeway' sole) which was stitched into place.I have a pair of boots, style 'Hanover' (maybe 12 years old) which...
Here are a few pictures (posted previously) which show the the pump-stitch.Both insole and outsole are perforated with the awl to half thickness and the stitching meanders in and out of a tunnel without being visible on either sole: Apart from the old boy in Edinburgh who specializes in pump-stitch, there a few more shoemakers who can do it, but they do it so rarely that they, inevitably, will be out of their comfort zone.
They are most likely to have been made by Crockett & Jones.
Unlined suede jackets are quite common in Mediterranean countries. Like a sweater you slip them on when it gets a bit chilly in the evening after a warm day. Unlined suede lets you see the grain side which must be free of major faults. So the hides will need more careful selection then for a fully lined jacket. It's a mark of quality, not of cost cutting.
Actually a little boo-boo has slipped into the article, those boots are supposed to show Blake construction:Those boots are actually mine. They are hand-welted with bevelled waist and the finished boots have a hand-stitched outsole. But the picture shows them in an early stage and the uppers are temporarily “braced” (basted) for a fitting.The insole gets “blocked” (moulded) to the underside of the last, cut, holdfast gets cut and perforated. Then the upper is lasted and...
What!?! - 3D print only the leather parts? - You soon will be able to 3D print the entire shoe. You set-up your printer at night time, in the morning you have a new pair of shoes.All that welting stuff will be redundant!
New Posts  All Forums: