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Posts by bengal-stripe

The discussion whether the good fit of a last/shoe is decided in the fore-part or in the back-part has been going on for the best part of 150 years. There are various theories, schools, national traditions which will never agree with each other. All Austro/Hungarian (and further into the Balkans) shoemaking is based on the 'scientific' method (Winkel-System )of Robert Knöfel (1834-84) which is totally at odds with the English, far more empirical method. The Latin...
But isn't the ass pain caused by the pents (with camel toe)?http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2015/02/08/the-ultimate-handmade-pair-of-trousers-ambrosi-napoli/
Try 'Pinnas and Needles' in Soho http://pinnasandneedles.com/ I did pick up my first job with them earlier today and I am pleased with the work. They're an old favourite of the forum here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/252266/great-alteration-tailors-in-london-pinnas-and-needles
Preferably your man-servant will do it. Otherwise you'll need a deer bone, fat and lots of elbow grease.Think of it like using lots of pomade and heavy brushing on your hair. The individual strands of hair will stick together and get turned into a shiny cap.
There is a classic Austrian shoe, called 'Archduke Johann' which is half-cut with a seam on the vamp and down the heel.Here is Scheer's version of that particular design:http://www.scheer.at/The St Crispin version is a whole-cut with a decorative (non-functional) seam on top of the vamp.Similar look, but different pattern.
Berluti, like other LVMH companies, pride themselves never to take part in the sales and never to reduce their merchandise.But for the last few sales (at least in London, don't know about Paris), Berluti had significant mark-downs on their clothing collection(but not on their shoes).
You better take the day off tomorrow, as you probably will be dreadfully jet-legged!
But the tight-fitting heel and top-line is the difference between a loafer last and a last for lace-up shoes. Heel-slippage and a gaping top-line are the signs of a badly fitting loafer. To make sure the loafer clips into the back of the foot like a bicycle trouser clip (and stays put throughout the day) you make the profil of the heel more curved-in (in the top section) and you also tighten the top-line so the opening is more triangular (less round) towards the heel end....
"First we take Manhattan, then we take Berlin!"
I've posted this before; here is a product from an Estonian tannery who claims to have rediscovered the historical Russian method, using willow bark and birch oil: http://tripleskin.com/en/projects/yufte/ Apparently, so the story goes, the tanning of the legendary Cuir de Russie was a highly protected state secret. Different steps of the process were carried out at different locations, so nobody knew the all-over recipe. The link between the individual steps got lost...
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