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Posts by bengal-stripe

Well, it's (almost) the Elmsley: Five eyelet derby, toe cap, swan's-neck.But the "Elmsley" has a row of perforation (brogueing) on the toe cap and comes with a single leather sole. The shoe pictured has no perforation and comes on a HAF (half double sole). It might be a different model with a different name, but it is also possible this is a made-to-order job where the customer requested a few minor changes.
That shouldn't be a problem.But as the tailor presumably will have to cut away some of the underlay higher up (to reduce bulk) you might not be able to return to a longer vent, if you change your mind at a later time.
If it is a full hide and not just a 'side' (half a hide) you can cut it right through the spine and you will have halved the width. The pattern pieces on calf leather (exotics can be different) are always arranged to the right and left of the spine, but never cross the spine line. You should be able to see the sine line (slightly different in colour). You can cut through there without losing prime leather.The best leather is in sections C and D; A and B can be reasonably...
The discussion whether the good fit of a last/shoe is decided in the fore-part or in the back-part has been going on for the best part of 150 years. There are various theories, schools, national traditions which will never agree with each other. All Austro/Hungarian (and further into the Balkans) shoemaking is based on the 'scientific' method (Winkel-System )of Robert Knöfel (1834-84) which is totally at odds with the English, far more empirical method. The Latin...
But isn't the ass pain caused by the pents (with camel toe)?http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2015/02/08/the-ultimate-handmade-pair-of-trousers-ambrosi-napoli/
Try 'Pinnas and Needles' in Soho http://pinnasandneedles.com/ I did pick up my first job with them earlier today and I am pleased with the work. They're an old favourite of the forum here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/252266/great-alteration-tailors-in-london-pinnas-and-needles
Preferably your man-servant will do it. Otherwise you'll need a deer bone, fat and lots of elbow grease.Think of it like using lots of pomade and heavy brushing on your hair. The individual strands of hair will stick together and get turned into a shiny cap.
There is a classic Austrian shoe, called 'Archduke Johann' which is half-cut with a seam on the vamp and down the heel.Here is Scheer's version of that particular design:http://www.scheer.at/The St Crispin version is a whole-cut with a decorative (non-functional) seam on top of the vamp.Similar look, but different pattern.
Berluti, like other LVMH companies, pride themselves never to take part in the sales and never to reduce their merchandise.But for the last few sales (at least in London, don't know about Paris), Berluti had significant mark-downs on their clothing collection(but not on their shoes).
You better take the day off tomorrow, as you probably will be dreadfully jet-legged!
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