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Posts by bengal-stripe

Albert Slippers in navy kid-suede with "French binding" in grosgrain ribbon:[/URLConstructed in the traditional method of "Pump stitching": [[SPOILER]]
It's a variation on the "apple peel" pattern John Lobb (ready-to-wear) has used for the "St Crepin 2009" An absolute bravura piece of pattern design/cutting. (And incredibly wasteful as far as leather consumption is concerned.)
Turkey is still very keen. Other candidates at present are Iceland, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia.http://europa.eu/about-eu/countries/on-the-road-to-eu-membership/index_en.htmThe UK used to be very much in favour of having Turkey as a member, just to be occult to the (majority of) EU members who are against Turkey's membership,
I'm afraid, I can't help you. - I've seen the website, but I never met the man nor did I see any of his work in the flesh.
It is a variation on a stormwelt:But it is also possible the shoe is in Blake-Rapid construction, then the 'welt' is purely decorative.
I didn't even know that this particular lacing is attached with a sewing machine. I always presumed they were stitched by hand. That obviously shows that I never seriously enquired about it.I was thinking of doing something like this; once the upper is finished, you fold the tongue out of the way and hand-stitch a hemming stitch from the inside, holding the two edges tightly together.If you use a curved needle, you should be able to place the sections under the surface...
I was given another explanation: by keeping the threats short and edge to edge closed very tightly there is less likelihood that the two quarters can shift against each other (like tectonic plates). If one quarter ends up somewhat higher than the other one, all the laces, although parallel if the eyelets were punched correctly, will run slightly up- or downhill and will no longer be at right angle to the shoe's centreline. The longer the bridging distance of the lacing...
Kielman is a bespoke shoemaker. So the shoes would have been made on the bespoke last of whoever ordered these shoes.
I can be wrong, but I cannot find any Italian DNA in those shoes. No Italian would cut the welt so tight, even below "just show stitches". When you look at the shoes from above, you cannot see the welt. Equally the heels are small and the waist is tight and beautifully shaped. I'have never seen that finesse in Italian work.My money is on one of Japan's 'Young Turks, possibly Masuro Okuyama. Alternatively it might be French work.And if I'm wrong and it is really Bestetti or...
It's not an (off-centre) side seam, but a full (heel) counter. There is the same seam on the inside and outside.http://gazianogirling.tumblr.com/I do believe a counter is a good idea for a Norwegian (style) shoe as it balances the apron front and, by adding heft to the heel, doesn't make the shoe too front-heavy.
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