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Posts by bengal-stripe

A two-piece counter with a centre-seam (and reinforced with a dog-tail) is the absolute pits. After all, what is a counter, if not an extended back-strap to avoid the back-seam. As my closer has done at times, you can put a dart into the lasting allowance, so, once the shoe is finished, that dart has been pulled underneath the 'waterline'.A proper back-seam (open and stitched-down) is a joy, presuming it is straight and in the centre.
The John Lobb St James’s shop we all know is not as old as it looks.The first store was opened in 1866 at 296 Regent Street (which is north of Oxford Circus). Subsequently (probably in the late 1800s) they moved down to 47 St James’s Street (which is near Piccadilly and on the other side of the Street). These premises were bombed-out during the Blitz and John Lobb moved to their current premises at 9 St James’s Street.So they have been occupying their shop for about 75...
That's the shoemaker the pictures come from: "the talented Mr W". He might, or might not, be the same one.I have no idea why "the talented Mr W" he has such an inquisitive mind and has to try everything (at least once).
Here are pictures of a truly seamless balmoral by a (not yet) famous bespoke maker: Now that is bravura shoemaking, pulling out all the stops!
Are you talking about these soles?http://www.styleforum.net/t/316071/antonio-meccariello-shoes/615#post_7261875I didn't post them, but I think I suggested the effect might have been achieved by using milk and ammonia.
Here is a link to A&A Crack (Northampton), showing the various colours available(Click for a larger image):http://www.aacrack.co.uk/catalogue.asp?product_id=69
I think, I have handled the shoe in question and I believe that is the solution the shoemaker has chosen. I never stated that this was the best solution possible, but neither do I think your side-closed galoshes are a very good solution (remember the discussion here a few months ago about mafoo's side-closed galoshes). Here is one solution a very distinguished shoemaker has came up with a few years ago (while we are criticising: the double dog tails aren't very good...
What you believe to be pieced is actually a large dog tail for reinforcement. It is a galosh vamp going all the way to the heel and up to the top-line, so you have an (open) back seam going all the way up, which can be rather fragile (particular if a shoe horn isn't used).In this case, the vamp is cut asymmetrical, the outside is cut longer and pulled over to the medial side giving additional strength underneath the back seam. You could have added a back strap, which I...
Hasn't your mum never warned you about accepting sweets from strangers?
That's the Joan Crawford school of design.Allegedly those shoulder-pads were added to to detract from her wide hips.
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