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Posts by bengal-stripe

It used to be standard practice for pleats to be stitched-down maybe 5 cm (2") before they opened up. Particular in slightly higher-waisted trousers, it avoids giving the look of a tummy where there might not be one.
There is also "The Worshipful Company of Pattenmakers" http://www.pattenmakers.co.uk/company.asp (For those not familiar with footwear history, Pattens are a kind of platform overshoes; an absolute necessity in the days when the pavement was slippery with the contents of chamber pots). They do organize an annual dinner, where the occasional shoemaker can be found: Jim McCormack surrounded by Caroline Groves (ladies' shoemaker) and her...
In the UK, you have the "Independent Shoemakers" whose members include many of the smaller shoemaking firms, but not the internationally known West-End firms. http://www.shoemakers.org.uk/ Nevertheless, they do organize an annual conference. Some of the people attending do work for the big West-End firms, either fully employed or as outworkers. http://www.shoemakers.org.uk/conference.asp
I had these boots made in 2009. No problems whatsoever, the leather, which I believe was veg-tanned(although not entirely sure) was easily shaped (blocked or crimped) and there were no difficulties with the making.Nor is the leather "painted".I pulled the leather out of the merchant’s shelves at the time, because I liked the texture. I believe,they were “dead-stock” of some twenty years earlier which the merchant had just bought in.Charles F Stead, one of the world’s...
Why do these two German lads remind me of those two German lads? [[SPOILER]]
I presume the elasticated shoe pre-dates the firm of Tuczek.The elasticated boot (which became as “Chelsea boot” very popular in the 1960s) was invented in the 1840s by J Sparkes Hall of Regent Street London:Presumably some bright thing came up with an elasticated shoe not long after.In the States the elasticated style was known a “Congress”. A few years back, DW did post an advertisement from the early 1900s, showing a Congress style in a boot and shoe version.John Lobb...
Strictly speaking a side-elastic shoe is not a loafer. The traditional name (although hardly ever used these days) is a "Cambridge shoe".A loafer has no facility to open-up the shoe to make entry easier. Therefore a loafer is cut much lower and covers less of the foot than a shoe that can be opened (either by laces, elastics, straps and buckles, buttons or zips) to facilitate entry.Hence a side-elastic as well as it's close relative the "elastic on instep" will be made on...
Looking very good!Is the apron ("lake" if you like) supposed to be as austere and minimal (just a single row of of machining) or will the finished shoe sport a more elaborate apron seam? (I seem to remember a sample with a very nice plaited apron seam.)
In Europe a shoe with apron and a split toe is generally known as Norwegian (style).To complicate matters, there is also Norwegian construction, which can be used for almost any shoe style. In the States, the apron and split toe is known as Algonquin.I have no idea who was quicker off he mark: the Norwegians or the Algonquin.
In the left shoe, apron- and toe seam are fully hand-stitched with skin and tunnel stitch (or whatever term you prefer). The middle shoe is fully machine-stitched; the toe seam is "open" (like a back-seam) and the apron is laid on and stitched from above with "two passes (two rows of stitching). The right shoe has a decorative hand-stitch; the stitching is non-functional as neither toe- nor apron seam join two pieces of leather.
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