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Posts by bengal-stripe

Maybe it's a term solely used in Central-Europe.They have form inventing their own English terminology: in Germany a mobile- or cell-phone is known as a ""Handy".
Congratulations to your customer and his well-shod wedding.
A&A (Alan and Anthony) Crack do not own Charles F Stead, but the Crack family does. Their father Ernest bought Stead (in the 60s, or so) and runs it with his two elder sons Douglas and Peter. (For all I know, Ernest might be retired by now.) The two younger sons did set up A&A Crack in Northampton.Another internationally well known name for non-split "reverse calf" is "hunting suede", which Stead does not seem to use.
That is my understanding. The wreck was discovered back in 1973 and up to maybe eight years ago the original group of divers visited the ship every summer to salvage more hides. But of course, those divers had gotten old, so those that remained stopped further visits, despite the fact that a considerable number of hides are still down there. The legal owner of the wreck is the Duke of Cornwall (Prince of Wales) and I believe there are no plans at the moment to grant...
Yes, I saw it!Would make nice loafer with the apron in beaver tail and the rest of the shoe in smooth calf of the same colour.
While the leathers used by StC and G&G are modern leathers with the look of the historical Cuir de Russie. (whose tanning secrets, allegedly, got lost during the Russian revolution) here is a product from an Estonian tannery who claims to have recreated the original methods:http://tripleskin.com/en/projects/yufte/I have never seen the leather, so I have no opinions about it, but at 40 EUR per sq foot, it costs a pretty penny.There is also an interesting article on the...
But doesn't a "twisted" last have the heel sloping in the opposite direction? That is my understanding and that is the thing my bespoke last has. At the centre of the ball, the last slopes down towards the inside and the centre of the heel slopes down towards the outside. It is not a great deal of difference, maybe 1/16" (1.5 mm), but it is definitely there.But when it comes to the last sentence, I'm totally lost. In the Tuczek last featured (as well as in my last) the...
What you believe to be stitching is actually a decorative pattern applied with a wheel around the sole edge. It is usually called "scalloping".The actual stitching is protected by a flap (channelled) and not visible until the sole shows significant wear.
@poorsod - Thanks for clearing that up!
Traditionally a double sole comes with a square waist. I can't recall having seen a bevelled waist in conjunction with a double sole.That said, I believe the G&G hatch grain boots for forum member 'poorsod' had just that; but I've never seen a picture of the bottom treatment. I'm sure, they looked very good and the combination of bevelled waist and double sole is an additional alternative to the shoemaker's arsenal.Here is a panorama Jun Kuwana has taken from his...
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