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Posts by bengal-stripe

Boots (owned by yours truly) in (shrunken) Kudu leather.I believe the Northampton leather merchant who sold the hide to me (about 2008), that it is actually Kudu hide and that it was dead-stock which had been tanned some 20 or 25 years earlier. To balance the markings from one shoe to the other as equal as possible, we committed In the cutting of the vamps an actual no-no. The spine of the animal runs down the centre of the vamp. (Usually you cut to the left and right of...
You can't remove the belt loops without ugly marks where the stitching has been. These marks are permanent and cannot be removed (unlike most fabrics, where you just go over it with a steam iron).
According to Minassian, Tuczek had his premises at 17 Clifford Street between 1938 and 1966.Judging by the typography of the Tuczek catalogue, I would place it's design at the mid1950s. Listing the exchanges (in this case REGent) as part of the telephone number was stopped in 1966 when all-numerical numbers were introduced..
The welt is flush with the heel. What you see is a decorative wheeling, where a wheel gets pressed into the leather and leaves a mark:If you are referring to the step between the heel and the bevelled waist, that's a sign of the finest handmade work, as the change from rounded (waist) to square (heel) is invetabely clumsy.
For upholstery/interior leathers have a look through the Edelman catalogue. Probably the largest selection of this type of leather in the world.http://www.edelmanleather.com/
Here is an article giving more details:http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/london/3007675.stmThe construction of the boot is something like double Norwegian; triple soled; hob-nailed.
Shoemaker and forum member Janne Melkersson extolling the virtues of the fudge wheel and showing three samples of his (fudge-wheeled) workhttp://www.styleforum.net/t/59653/a-tour-of-northampton/135#post_1184949The workshop of Japanese shoemaker Ryota Hayafuji showing a large selection of fudge wheelshttp://www.keikari.com/english/It appears to me, that Allan D Worchester who writes in F Y Golding (1935) gives equal prominence to both methods (pricked and wheeled)This...
The fudge wheel has been in use with English shoemakers at least since Edwardian times (if not earlier). The wheel gets used twice, it gets pressed into the (virgin) welt and thus marks the number of stitches. After the stitching has been done, it gets used again and presses the stitches down into the 'valleys'. First and subsequent fudging have to hit high and low the absolutely identical way. Otherwise the shoemaker is 'making babies', which is a very bad thing (well,...
It is impossible to say, seeing just those pictures. Run your fingertips over the insole. Is there a row of stitching (inside the shoe), possibly covered by a full sock (insole liner). If yes, then it one of the Blake-stitch variations. I have a suspicion that the welt is fake, a bonwelt, which is purely decorative and comes with the stitching already in place in big rolls of 50 or 100 meters. In the second picture you see the join where the welt meets with the rand that...
I just passed through Savile Row today, and these premises, 39 Savile Row, will become the new G&G's store: Although the shop is empty and the shop-fitters haven't started yet, there are a few G&G catalogues displayed in the window. So I conclude: "That must be it!"
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