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Posts by bengal-stripe

Looking very good! - Wear them in good health!Are you giving guided tours through the shoe storage vault(s) of "Villa Browne", wearing white tie (just like Adolphe Menjou)?I might book myself in to a presentation, one of those days!
Agreed! - "Then you really enter the realm of extravagant cutting!" would have been a better choice!
A whole-cut (with or without a seam) never counts the tongue: "This shoe is a 'whole-and-a-bit-cut'" .The tongue is hardly a main piece of the shoe upper and when cutting the components you don't waste much time considering where to place the tongue. You might be hard pushed to find a piece of leather that is not of good enough quality or not big enough in size to get utilized as a tongue.
I think that "seamless heel" is a bit of a misnomer.Both shoes on the left sport a (heel) counter, one without and the other one with a "dart". (A dart is a short seam taking out fullness, for example in tailoring on the front of a jacket or on the back of a shirt.). I wouldn't call either heel seamless, as one centre seam has been replaced with two seams more sideways. In a whole-cut you can put the seam where-ever you like, so an asymmetric cut and a side-seam is an...
Solito, together with shirt maker Luca Avitabile (formerly Satriano Cinque) visits London regularly every 4 - 6 weeks (Traveller's Club, Pall Mall). They were last here 14 - 16 May and are due to return 25 - 27 June.Luigi (son) is always attending and from time to time Gennaro (father) comes as well. My fittings for a jacket was done by Gennaro in April and by Luigi in May. The coat should be ready in June, so the final take-over check will be done by either Luigi on his...
Every maker (of whatever product) will apply his/her margin to the raw materials as well.If the leather for a pair of uppers in calf costs $100 and will be $1000 for alligator, the cost of your pair of shoes will increase by more than $900 (even all other costs remain the same). A mark-up of 100% is very reasonable, even 200% are not excessive. So, if a pair of alligator shoes will cost you $2000 or even $3000 over a pair of leather shoes, you haven't been ripped-off.The...
Forum member Nicholas Templeman, the first of the current crop of young Turks in British shoemaking to venture out on his own, has had lately a few nice write-ups from menswear bloggers around the world (who are all members of this august forum here): http://dieworkwear.com/post/119368700629/nicholas-templeman http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2015/05/new-bespoke-on-the-block-nicholas-templeman.html http://www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-nicholas-templeman/ Enjoy!
I really like the loafers: no-nonsense, solid and down-to-earth. I hate those prissy, pretentious and piss-elegant little loafer numbers. Question to you and other members, what lay-out of the pattern do you prefer? First one shows toe aligned towards the head with large tiles over the toe. (There is a wide "boulevard" in the skin that divides the belly from the throat). Second sample has the toe aligned towards the tail, which shows the tiles getting gradually...
But we've had so many flame wars about gemming! - Let's find a different topic: what about a flame war on gay marriage?
Very fine Anglo/Italian co-operation. Both, the shoemaker in Naples and the lastmaker in London(St. Crispin's little brother) did do a very good job. Hopefully these lasts will beget many more shoes."I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship."
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