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Posts by bengal-stripe

Here is Carreducker's take on "insole up in waist":http://carreducker.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/insole-up-in-waist.htmlhttp://carreducker.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/insole-up-in-waist-2.htmlJames Ducker calls it "not a particularly common feature". I would say, this method comes originally from orthopaedic shoemaking, where certain feet might need a lot of support or built-ups.Whether "insole up in waist" in general (non-orthopaedic) shoemaking was more popular fifty or hundred...
In English shoemaking it is known as "Insole up in waist"and any bespoke firm (worth their salt) should be able to do this for you on request. They might not be too keen, as any mistake in the shape of the insole will necessitate a complete remake. (As has happened in the case of the photograph. The cut stitches show the insole was welted in, but was then redundant as there were problems with the fit. The last needed adjustments and so a new insole was required.)Another...
I just received an update from an erudite and witty member of the audience:But, looking out for Ballantyne on yoox or elsewhere, only the Scottish stuff justifies the stellar reputation Ballantyne used to have.
Ballantyne (at least the real McCoy) is no more. The original Ballantyne mill (last named 'Caerlee Mill' went into liquidation 12 or 18 months ago. The brand name Ballantyne was sold 10 or 15 years ago to some Italian conglomerate. They produced partly in Italy and partly in Scotland, resulting in very different products. I'm not sure if the Italian stuff still exists, the website doesn't work: http://www.ballantyne.it/ Our friend Reginald Jerome, with his usual...
Modern tanning can make crocodile/alligator leather as soft as fabric. Here is the famous (infamous) Hermès "t-shirt", selling at a cool 91.5k dollars. http://www.divahair.ro/uploads/articole/original/articole_9057.jpg Consider the leather comes from really old and big animals (front and back are a single hide each), see how the material moves with the guy. I wonder if the thing is washable.
What about a seamless whole-cut? --- --- ---
Use a (fabric) handkerchief!Fold it into a long strip, put one end inside the shoe and hold the other end. As you push your foot down into the shoe, you simultaneously pull the handkerchief out.Works a treat. (One of the things my grandfather told me.)
The (outer) leather is left plain, the lining leather is hatched. In drawing a) the hatching indicates the flesh (underside) of the leather binding. So the two layers get laid face to face, then the binding is turned over the cut edge. Once the lining is in place, another row of stitching ("in the ditch" of the binding) secures lining and rolled-over edge. e & f is the same principle, but the binding is left loose without a hard edge.
Here is an illustration of various edge treatments on shoe uppers:
That’s where the skills of the patternmaker and closer come into bespoke work. The closer has access to the bespoke last during the closing (upper-making) process. Although the two lasts might have different measurements and so will the individual pattern pieces, the skilled closer will tweak it in a way that the differences are not visible to the eye while looking at the shoe. If you tried to pull a standard upper (where left and right are identical) over a pair of last...
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