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Posts by bengal-stripe

I thought it was quite funny............and appropriate!
Channelled-stitching of the out-sole.A slit has been cut previously and is folded up (that is the bulge you see in the picture). Then the stitching is placed as not to catch the folded-up section. Afterwards the cut section is folded-down again and covers the stitching.So no row of stitching will be seen on top of the finished sole.
Ryota Hayafuji - un-folded but not unfinished edges at it's finest:Obviously a question of choice, as the tan facing seems to have folded edges, in addition to slip-beading.http://hayafuji.tumblr.com/
Folding edges can be a fully automated process and has been, at least here in the UK, traditionally the trade-mark of mass produced lower end shoes. English bespoke shoes never had folded edges as a properly done cut-edge (skived, singed, edge-dressed and burnished) with slip-beading for the top line) will take more time to produce than a folded edge.To paraphrase Margaret Thatcher: "You turn if you want to, some are not for turning."
It's on this page here; http://www.aubercy.com/en/our-locations/contact ( at ) aubercy.com
That's quite possible, the design might have had a totally different name in the Peal catalogue.Centipede calls it "Windsor", but he might have just used the (well-known) EG name,
Here are pictures of the original Peal "Windsor" design:http://centipede.web.fc2.com/pealwindsor.htmltaken from Centipede's treasure trove (which unfortunately has not been updated in several years):http://centipede.web.fc2.com/Peal used the warrant "By appointment to the late King George V" right unto the closure of the company (mid 60s). I have seen Peal shoes with the (late) George V warrant and the Wigmore Street address (the company moved to Wigmore Street in the late...
Leather and Grindery in (Greater) London carry the French Lulu plates in various sizes:http://www.leatherandgrindery.com/Shoe-Repair-Materials-shoe-repair-wholesalers-shoe-repair-supplies/Metal-Work-Shanks-And-Parts/Toe-Plates-Segs/lulu-toe-plates-metalThey also supply the larger Triumph plates, as used by G&G for their bespoke work (not featured on the website) as well as various nail-on...
The Alden website lists only Browns in South Moulton Street as UK retailer, but you can also find Alden shoes in London at Harrods and Liberty (Kurt Geiger) as well as Drake's in Clifford Street and Trunk Clothiers in Chiltern Street. I don't know who stocks Alden outside of London.
The Bonafe boot is not a Goyser welt (with the welt strip stitched on the outside) but is in Norwegian construction (with the upper folded to the outside, forming a "welt"). As far as I know, Vass will not do Norwegian.But to be absolutely certain, you should ask Vass what they will, or will not do.
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