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Posts by bengal-stripe

I presume the elasticated shoe pre-dates the firm of Tuczek.The elasticated boot (which became as “Chelsea boot” very popular in the 1960s) was invented in the 1840s by J Sparkes Hall of Regent Street London:Presumably some bright thing came up with an elasticated shoe not long after.In the States the elasticated style was known a “Congress”. A few years back, DW did post an advertisement from the early 1900s, showing a Congress style in a boot and shoe version.John Lobb...
Strictly speaking a side-elastic shoe is not a loafer. The traditional name (although hardly ever used these days) is a "Cambridge shoe".A loafer has no facility to open-up the shoe to make entry easier. Therefore a loafer is cut much lower and covers less of the foot than a shoe that can be opened (either by laces, elastics, straps and buckles, buttons or zips) to facilitate entry.Hence a side-elastic as well as it's close relative the "elastic on instep" will be made on...
Looking very good!Is the apron ("lake" if you like) supposed to be as austere and minimal (just a single row of of machining) or will the finished shoe sport a more elaborate apron seam? (I seem to remember a sample with a very nice plaited apron seam.)
In Europe a shoe with apron and a split toe is generally known as Norwegian (style).To complicate matters, there is also Norwegian construction, which can be used for almost any shoe style. In the States, the apron and split toe is known as Algonquin.I have no idea who was quicker off he mark: the Norwegians or the Algonquin.
In the left shoe, apron- and toe seam are fully hand-stitched with skin and tunnel stitch (or whatever term you prefer). The middle shoe is fully machine-stitched; the toe seam is "open" (like a back-seam) and the apron is laid on and stitched from above with "two passes (two rows of stitching). The right shoe has a decorative hand-stitch; the stitching is non-functional as neither toe- nor apron seam join two pieces of leather.
Those boots are bespoke or they are a bespoke sample. They would have been produced in their Paris workshop. Berluti employs about a dozen people exclusively for bespoke.For those who have taken a shine towards the boots, (which are likely to cost more than most people's family car), here is another picture:
I too was puzzled when I received mails that X or Y had given me "reputation". Now I believe it is just someone pressing the "helpful" or "thumbs-up" button which as been renamed as "reputation". Let's put it to the test: I have just clicked he thumb-up button on your post. If I have given you "reputation", then you'll know what it is.
Judging by the pictures, "sponge calf" is just another name for nubuck. Nubuck is a leather where the grain-side gets sanded, to give that velvety appearance. It's similar to suede (where the flesh-side is sanded). Nubuck and suede get treated the same way, use spays to give some protection and water proofing, (if necessary) clean with a foam cleaner. Brush with a suede brush to restore the nap. Do not use normal shoe polish or creams as they are designed for smooth...
I'm still amazed by the size of Scholte's estate. Putting the amount through an inflation calculator, £200,000 back in 1947(?) would be £7.5 million by today (certainly an amount not to be sneezed at).But if that amount had been invested in property, the value of the portfolio would have been immeasurably higher. I would guess, back in 1947 £500 would have bought you a little "three-up/two-down" terraced house (which, depending on the location, might fetch up to 400k) and...
Why restrict yourself to boring initials? Demand fully-fledged "pinwork" in the design of your choice!
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