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Posts by bengal-stripe

I believe isshinyru101 typed the wrong word, using "ultra-wide" when he actually wanted to say "ultra-narrow".A width are on the very narrow side, while AAA is freakishly narrow. E- EEE are wide fitting.
Forthcoming mini-project: Bespoke watch strap (just one, maybe two holes) made from (genuine) "Frau Metta Catherina" Russian reindeer leather. I haven't decided on the watch yet: either Nomos "Tangente" or a vintage Ullysee Nardin chronometer.
That depends from country to country. Italians use crust leather without any colouring; you frequently see picture of those off-white shoes. English firms (those few that work with crust) use pre-dyed leather. So a raspberry-pink leather might end up as a deep burgundy, a pale mustard might become a warm "London tan". A few years back there used to be a photograph on the net, showing a pair of EG shoes, one in a dull muddy colour and the other (dyed and polished shoe)...
Very nice interview and without bull**** (quite rare in the shoe business)!
Well, in shoemaking every step of the production relies on the previous one: you need the last before you can make the pattern, you need the pattern before you can make the upper, you need the upper before you can do the bottom work.Having more workers, does not necessarily speed up production. Having these workers and having them specialize in certain sections, should speed up things. But things are not equal, closing a pair of uppers takes less time than bottom-making:...
These figures were not supposed to be about the Japanese market (of which I don't know anything) but were in answer to this statement.I also said it refers to shoemakers who specialise in certain production steps and have been doing their particular line of work for years, more likely for decades. I remember a few years back when member 'shoefan' was sitting-in with an English closer, he (shoefan) told me in a mixture of amazement and horror that this guy was running his...
Leaving all statements for the consumption of prospective clients out of the equation, I would say that is the actual time spent on making a pair of bespoke shoes. Important is that these figures refer to specialists who make nothing else than a particular step in production of bespoke shoes, have been doing it for many years and are highly experienced in their particular task.Last making: 1 day.A distinguished last maker (then in semi-retirement), told me that in his...
Probably milk and ammonia, which used to be a very popular technique for a cloudy, marbled stain.
Edward Green “Lastology” is a bit of a science. There have been quite a few predecessors to last 890, not only the 888.It started off with last 88 (which might hark back to the 1930s, I'm not sure). The 88 (John Hlustik: “the Great 88” was a relatively short last (as it was the fashion back then), rather snug across the vamp and had a toe shape that hovered undecided between chisel and round. When EG introduced the second “top drawer” at around 1996 (the current top drawer...
Different strokes for different folks or there is no accounting for taste.I personally, rather prefer the natural storm welt/sole edge on those blue boots to the standard (darkest) brown or black. In my opinion English shoemakers are frequently far too heavy on the edges; even uppers in the lightest tan get the heavy edge treatment.It is very easy to stain that tan edge to dark or black, if that is what the buyer prefers. It will take a guy in the factory 10 minutes at the...
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