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Posts by bengal-stripe

Presumably it derives from the French "croupe" (Partie postérieure du corps de certains animaux: "La croupe d’un cheval,") or the German "Kruppe". Both terms refer to the buttocks of certain animals, in particular horses and dogs."Croupon" refers to the rear-section of a hide (in English usually called "butt").In modern German (speaking) shoemaking shell is called "Ross-Spiegel" (horse-mirror).
This is the C&J "Harward" (unlined shell) and in the picture you can see the pocket clearly.During the making process the stiffener gets shoved into this pocket.
It's a bit difficult to see in the pictures, but I presume those loafers are unlined. What I first presumed to be a (heel) counter, might be a pocket of lining- or even self-leather where the heel stiffener is tucked into. I presume there must be a toe cap, is this simply glued into place, or is the underside of the apron (lake) lined, hiding the toe cap (partially)?Could the clicker arrange the Horween stamp to occupy some attractive position inside the shoe?
X-posting: Here are some pictures of my “Marquess” shoes (Shoji and Yuriko Kawaguchi) as they looked earlier today:
At popular request of a single person (well, two actually), here are some pictures of my “Marquess” shoes (Shoji and Yuriko Kawaguchi) as they looked earlier today:
I can take some pictures (on the foot) over the weekend, to show how the shoes look worn-in some three or four months later.
Don't forget, Shoji would have been the (bottom) maker for these shoes. A "maker" is supplied with a last and a finished upper: his task is to attach the uppers to the sole and finish the sole (but not the uppers, that is done once the shoes are back with the firm).So, all the credit for the looks and aesthetic of the shoe (which you can see in the photograph) is due to G&G. All the credit for the neat execution of the bottom work (which you can only see at close...
Actually Nr 10 indicates the men's collection. http://thedillychic.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Margiela-0-23.jpg But looking at the label, it looks very untidily stitched. There is a possibility that the label was fixed by someone into some garment, which might not be a men's coat or even anything from Margiela. Maybe pictures of the whole garment might help. How does the coat button, left over right (male) or right over left (female)?
I believe it is due to Daniel's instigation (and curiosity) that over the last few years, G&G (the firm) has changed their ways in taking measurements and conducting trials of bespoke work.When Tony measured me some 10 years ago (in his Edward Green days), it was probably not different from the way Cleverley (for whom Tony had worked previously) and other bespoke firms conduct their measurement sessions:Length of the actual foot with the measuring stickOutline, usually...
They reduce bulk and give a much neater finish as one side does not fold over the other one. (Try it out, folding a hem on a sheet of paper.)
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