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Posts by bengal-stripe

I've posted this before; here is a product from an Estonian tannery who claims to have rediscovered the historical Russian method, using willow bark and birch oil: http://tripleskin.com/en/projects/yufte/ Apparently, so the story goes, the tanning of the legendary Cuir de Russie was a highly protected state secret. Different steps of the process were carried out at different locations, so nobody knew the all-over recipe. The link between the individual steps got lost...
I don't think there is a hard and fast rule how high the pockets ought to sit: some tailors/ designers will cut them higher, others a bit lower. But, presuming you are about average hight, 6 1/2" does sound very low. You only can shorten a jacket something like an inch at the most, otherwise pockets and buttoning point will be too low and the whole coat might look out of proportions.
Really neat apron-stitching! I also like the square waist (which has become quite a rare bird in English bespoke shoemaking) and the light touch at staining welt, sole-edge and and heel.
The fluffy toy, sticking it's tongue out, obviously does not like your shoes. - But I do!!!
Looking good!I presume, both pairs will be ready and delivered at NT's trunkshow in the US of A next month.
I am not certain either.I only read something (maybe in an interview with Monsieur Aubercy) where the firm proudly mentioned their historical connections with López Willshaw. Probably automatically (and possibly erroneously) I did assume a man like LW would not have been slumming it wearing ready-to-wear shoes.After all, he had a bob or two (or a few centimes):But then, what do I know? - López Willshaw might have just got the shoes for the chauffeur from Aubercy
I was under the impression, Aubercy did always offer Grand measure, until they stopped (at least temporarily) after Martinez had left, maybe eight or ten years ago..After all, as far as I know, Aubercy was the shoemaker of choice for Arturo López Willshaw (the man who kept another shoe nut, Alexis, Baron de Redé in style and after whom JLP did name a loafer)https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arturo_L%C3%B3pez_Willshawhttps://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexis_de_Red%C3%A9López...
Church's uses the traditional English term "crup" to specify shell cordovan (leather). If the shoes are not marked crup, then they are not shell cordovan.
Janne Melkersson, a very wise shoemaker (actually, a very wise man) said once: "Ask that same question five shoemakers and you'll get six different answers." Never take the first answer as authoritative.John Lobb (London) has a huge showcase of sample shoes going back many years. Some presumably even to the time before WWI, while the majority were produced in either the 1930s or 1950/60s. It might be interesting to check whether the early samples used a stitch-prick, and...
I didn't dismiss TM's complaint, but neither did I address it, as I did find your reply so OTT, dismissing a whole technique and not just an individual result as sub-standard.You run the fudge wheel once over the welt to mark your stitches, then you stitch and thereafter you run the fudge wheel again to finish the whole thing off. It can happen (although it shouldn't) that the second run comes out of sinc and you make another row of indentations which does not match the...
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