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Posts by bengal-stripe

Don't forget, Shoji would have been the (bottom) maker for these shoes. A "maker" is supplied with a last and a finished upper: his task is to attach the uppers to the sole and finish the sole (but not the uppers, that is done once the shoes are back with the firm).So, all the credit for the looks and aesthetic of the shoe (which you can see in the photograph) is due to G&G. All the credit for the neat execution of the bottom work (which you can only see at close...
Actually Nr 10 indicates the men's collection. http://thedillychic.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Margiela-0-23.jpg But looking at the label, it looks very untidily stitched. There is a possibility that the label was fixed by someone into some garment, which might not be a men's coat or even anything from Margiela. Maybe pictures of the whole garment might help. How does the coat button, left over right (male) or right over left (female)?
I believe it is due to Daniel's instigation (and curiosity) that over the last few years, G&G (the firm) has changed their ways in taking measurements and conducting trials of bespoke work.When Tony measured me some 10 years ago (in his Edward Green days), it was probably not different from the way Cleverley (for whom Tony had worked previously) and other bespoke firms conduct their measurement sessions:Length of the actual foot with the measuring stickOutline, usually...
They reduce bulk and give a much neater finish as one side does not fold over the other one. (Try it out, folding a hem on a sheet of paper.)
Of course, I've only seen your photographs, but the leather looks pretty good to me. If the price is right it might well be worth taking a punt. If the leather is not suitable for footwear (I presume it will be), it would make really nice small leather goods (wallets, card cases etc.). Those 'dead-stock' leathers are quite sought after. Shoji Kawaguchi ("Marquess") has bought all the original Freudenberg leather he could lay his hands on and Meccariello did acquire a...
No, they weren't bespoke.Today, one of those 'Patina Artists' might do a good job in dying the whole pair pink and scatter 'hundreds and thousands' (sprinkles) all over.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SprinklesBut those artists weren't around back then. So the shoes had to go.
Don't forget the stitches in the outseam are far closer together than those in the inseam. So the chance of hitting the outseam stitches full on (particular with the huge screws used in the mountaineering boot) and cutting them is far greater. I have just put one of the Triumph plates (the ones with the screws far away from the front edge) onto a fully-prepared insole and the screw holes will hit the centre of the holdfast. Stitch length for insoling is about 4...
Now that’s a bit of a whopper (and presumably will make a hell of a noise) :http://www.crockettandjones.com/news/index/the-turner-twins--question-mt-elbrusI do believe, that those screws (probably 3.5 mm) will cause damage, particular as they seem to sit directly on top of the out-seam.But, torn thread or not, as long as the screws are in place, they will hold it all together.There will never be the need to replace the ironmongery, even less so, the actual soles.
I don't know about Suzuki, but here are my "Marquess" shoes with Triumph plates:I'm not sure why you believe three (or even five) screws would cause mortal damage to the welt seam, but a dozen or more nails would not. The screws are very small, either Nr. 1 or 2 (1.5 or 2 mm). I haven't got any pins (nails) to measure, but I would guess the diameter is about 1.5 mm. The thread for the welt stitching is twisted from individual strands, so the point of any nail or screw is...
Even Jun Kuwana, who might well have the largest shoe collection in the world (55+ bespoke pairs), suffers from excessive wear at the toes.http://www.styleforum.net/t/501277/now-thats-what-i-call-obsessiveHere is a recent entry on his instagram page:https://instagram.com/not_fashion_but_style/Foster & Son (no doubt, one of the finest shoemakers in the world) had no hesitation to fix a pair of “Lulus”, even as an afterthought and repair.
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