New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by bengal-stripe

That is something frequently done in bespoke English shoes: the back- lining (but not the front-lining) and the 'sock' (insole cover) are cut from the same leather than the uppers. I believe it was traditionally only done with black lace-up shoes, but is now also used with brown shoes; but not for boots or 'casuals' (loafers).EG, JL Northampton and G&G have taken up that practice (at least for some models). When you place a MTO job with one of these companies,ask for your...
Don't get hung-up on a name! - You can make any shoe, whether the construction is welted, Norwegian or Goyser, as subtle or as garish oops bold as you like. Play it the other way round: find pictures of a construction you like and which you think would be stylistically appropriate for your next pair. Let Nicholas work out how to do it.To come back to Veldtschoen: As far as I know, it employs a welt and then attaches the sole by stitching through the turned-out upper,...
Take it from JMW: The Chasse http://www.jmweston.fr/en/derby-chasse-a-talon-baraquette-cousu-a-la-main-cousu-norvegien-17856 and the Demi-Chasse http://www.jmweston.fr/en/derby-demi-chasse-double-semelle-talon-baraquette-et-bouts-acier-encastres-cousu-goodyear-17812 Depending on the last and the details, you can make either design as a heavy country shoe or as smart town shoe (but probably not for the most formal occasions.) As I said, nail the design, then think...
Simon Crompton had the very same problem with his first pair of bespoke shoes: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2010/09/bespoke-shoes-at-cleverley-part-9.html By adjusting the last (in your case, it might be only the left one) and re-lasting over the reduced last, the problem got solved. The same with the instep. Shaving a bit off the instep will leave the laces on the right shoe a bit more open. If you feel the left is too open, addition of a small bit of leather will...
Are you talking about the JMW 'Chasse' or 'Demi-Chasse'? Chasse Demi-Chasse I can see in the drawn design distinctive quarters, which would make them a Demi-Chasse. (The Chasse is like the EG Dover where the side-pieces go from the toe to the heel.) You and NT might want to nail the design first and thereafter decide what method of construction is stylistically the most appropriate for the design the two of you have come up with.
The "Osloer" has a 'raised seam, different from the flat 'pie-crust seam' EG uses for the "Dover".That seam is probably alien to Austro/Hungarian shoemakers. Presumably that is the reason why Karl Chu from Ascot Shoes offers a special edition of a Dover-like shoe where the hand-stitched upper is done in England and the bottom-work by Vass in Hungary:
But you do present your personal opinions as incontrovertible scientific fact:What evidence do you have for this rather bold statement? How many people have you spoken to who complained about slippage and toe plates "being dangerous" complained about serious injuries, let alone a "change of the walk pattern" ("Toe plates have given me a limp")?A reference to the research you used to come to that conclusion would be greatly...
I did pass through the Ralph Lauren store today, so I had a quick peek inside the boots in question:That current crop of Jodhpur boots is made on last 888.
The side-pieces of a shoe are called 'quarters' (I presume as each one occupies one quarter of the shoe) and until a few years back you would not have seen any shoes where the two quarters were cut as a single piece, presumably making them a 'half'.For a skilled shoemaker it shouldn't make much difference whether the heal is pre-shaped (by a seam) or not. After all, he can last around the much smaller radius of the toe without excessive folds being visible on the finished...
I doubt very much, that Jodhpur boot was made on the 89 last.The 89 last (I believe it was an RLPL exclusive) was a no-nonsense type of last and was used in the late 90s/early00s for boots and country-type shoes, while smart RLPL dress shoes came on the 808 last.I still have a pair of boots on the 89 last and the sole shape is nothing like the one in the picture.
New Posts  All Forums: