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Posts by bengal-stripe

But the tight-fitting heel and top-line is the difference between a loafer last and a last for lace-up shoes. Heel-slippage and a gaping top-line are the signs of a badly fitting loafer. To make sure the loafer clips into the back of the foot like a bicycle trouser clip (and stays put throughout the day) you make the profil of the heel more curved-in (in the top section) and you also tighten the top-line so the opening is more triangular (less round) towards the heel end....
"First we take Manhattan, then we take Berlin!"
I've posted this before; here is a product from an Estonian tannery who claims to have rediscovered the historical Russian method, using willow bark and birch oil: http://tripleskin.com/en/projects/yufte/ Apparently, so the story goes, the tanning of the legendary Cuir de Russie was a highly protected state secret. Different steps of the process were carried out at different locations, so nobody knew the all-over recipe. The link between the individual steps got lost...
I don't think there is a hard and fast rule how high the pockets ought to sit: some tailors/ designers will cut them higher, others a bit lower. But, presuming you are about average hight, 6 1/2" does sound very low. You only can shorten a jacket something like an inch at the most, otherwise pockets and buttoning point will be too low and the whole coat might look out of proportions.
Really neat apron-stitching! I also like the square waist (which has become quite a rare bird in English bespoke shoemaking) and the light touch at staining welt, sole-edge and and heel.
The fluffy toy, sticking it's tongue out, obviously does not like your shoes. - But I do!!!
Looking good!I presume, both pairs will be ready and delivered at NT's trunkshow in the US of A next month.
I am not certain either.I only read something (maybe in an interview with Monsieur Aubercy) where the firm proudly mentioned their historical connections with López Willshaw. Probably automatically (and possibly erroneously) I did assume a man like LW would not have been slumming it wearing ready-to-wear shoes.After all, he had a bob or two (or a few centimes):But then, what do I know? - López Willshaw might have just got the shoes for the chauffeur from Aubercy
I was under the impression, Aubercy did always offer Grand measure, until they stopped (at least temporarily) after Martinez had left, maybe eight or ten years ago..After all, as far as I know, Aubercy was the shoemaker of choice for Arturo López Willshaw (the man who kept another shoe nut, Alexis, Baron de Redé in style and after whom JLP did name a loafer)https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arturo_L%C3%B3pez_Willshawhttps://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexis_de_Red%C3%A9López...
Church's uses the traditional English term "crup" to specify shell cordovan (leather). If the shoes are not marked crup, then they are not shell cordovan.
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