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Posts by bengal-stripe

Well, those 'custom shoes' seem to have a strange construction (cemented?). If you want 'welts', you pay another $ 225 on top of it. It doesn't say 'hand-welted', I even doubt it's GYW, or even 'welted' as we know it. It might be just a decorative bon-welt glued into place. 'Hand-stitching on the upper costs another $ 225. If that is for a beautiful apron seam, then it is a very reasonable price. If it's just for three stay-stitches on the bottom of the quarters, then...
Grenson used to offer a bespoke shoe like Trickers (hand-welted and out-sawn by machine), but they stopped the program some 10 or 12 years ago. I believe between the wars, many factories would have offered this type of product. Edward Green tried the first 'drop-drawer' program (early 90s) as hand-welted, but got in such an awful mess with deadlines, they had to abandon the hand-welting.The times quoted here for hand-welting seem to forget (accidentally on purpose?) that...
That's what the 'Parisian Gentleman' has to say about Carlos Santos shoes.It corresponds to what I have heard about the company's chaotic administration.I did see the shoes once (shown by the agent) at a German retailer, who was considering buying the collection. (They did not, in the end.)Hopefully the company has solved their problems by now, otherwise the guys in Stockholm might jump out of the Edward Green frying pan into the Carlos Santos fire.
Here you are:http://www.trickers.com/bespoke
I don't know where StC sources it's hatchgrain leather from and if it's the same Horween leather which is used by G&G and other English firms.When the Horween leather was initially released and made-up as shoes, it had significant problems with the finish wearing off. G&G had to strip all the hides and re-dye them. Alfred Sargent (who didn't use the leather a great deal) had the same problems with the finish wearing off as StC has.Whether Horween has solved the problem...
Die, Workwear! met up with Nicholas Templeman on his recent visit state-side and commissioned a pair of shoes from him. The blog jjust published a very interesting piece about the making of the bespoke last and the difference between a (truly) bespoke last and a fitted-up commercial last. http://dieworkwear.com/post/137827721579/the-making-of-a-bespoke-last I presume, a trial pair will be ready for Nicholas' next visit to the USA in April. I for one am looking...
The style is known as "Oxford" and every shoemaker/manufacturer has this style in their program. (Oxford is also the name of the family of shoe designs: variations on the same theme, but with more features like perforation or a wing-tip toe cap.) Every shoe has two components that decide the look of a particular shoe: the last and the pattern. The last is the form (wood or plastic) over which the shoe gets built and defines the internal space of the shoe. The Carmina last...
"Frankenstitch" (as far as I know, a term coined at this forum here) indicates a reversed hand-stitch (executed from the underside) which just shows a row of dimples. Like the stiches on Frankenstein's monster where the various parts are stitched together.Example: GazianoGirling style "Antibes"You've got enough thumbs-up votes ("reputations"), to qualify for this level.
Met him last week in London here: our American members "Mr Claymore" and "poorsod" happened to be in town. So a London contingent consisting of "Cantabrigan" and yours truly met up with them. We we were also joined by the two rising stars of the bespoke shoe trade, Daniel Wegan (G&G) and Nicholas Templeman.I think, I can speak for all participants and say it was a very enjoyable evening. Mr Claymore is a lovely guy and (not only by the way he dresses) a larger than life...
I'll be calling-in later today to say 'Hello' and have a look at your stuff.
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