or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by Isbister

 Some of their tailoring was done by Mears of Walsall. The Kings were never very open about who did their tailoring, but since their demise, various facts have emerged which reflect quite poorly on the Kings - although who knows what desperate turn of events precipitated their apparent decline? I had a couple of sports jackets made by Bookster, then stumbled across Mears by chance, and they made me a hacking jacket. I was interested to find they were both quicker and...
 Judge? Last thing I would dream of doing ...
Some here scorn Lewin for their offerings, but personally I feel they offer a good service at a very competitive price. For someone starting out, say an intern or office junior who needs a suit, they are just the job. Their shirts also come in an amazing range of sizes - various sleeve lengths for each collar size. Others have commented that they shrink, which can happen. If buying their shirts, it is wise to go up a half-inch in collar size. Their shirts come in too great...
 I hope you were aware that such shoes are intended to be worn with a kilt.
By hand is how Edward Green, Gazio & Girling, Lobb et al burnish their shoes. Of course, they start with very high-quality veg-tanned calfskin. I doubt whether all leathers can be burnished in the same way.
^ Biodegradability and differential rates of wear or stress tolerance may be side issues for some people, but it is perhaps something you might want to bear in mind. For anyone who prefers to shuffle around in trousers that have become alternately scratchy and shiny, or that spark and crackle from the presence of synthetic fibres in the fabric, don't let me spoil your party.
 The phenomena I was attempting to explain, perhaps rather poorly - fibre degradation, discomfort, yellowing etc arising from injudicious fabric content - are quite widely reported and understood. I'm sorry that you seemed to find my explanation so lacking in persuasive force but invite you to google a few terms such as 'blended fabrics degrade' if you wish.
Yes, I am referring to research that was carried out years ago concerning the complementarity of various fibres.   In essence, at a subatomic level, all fibres have their own electronic field. Similar fibres can be woven together without disturbing this field, whereas fabrics which blend unlike fibres having differing electronic fields disturb this pattern. This will manifest itself in the form of excessive wear, misalignment of fibres, and even a sensation of discomfort...
Chemical and sub-atomic analysis reveals that different fibres necessarily have antipathetic qualities - it is all a matter of like with like. You cannot blame the Savile Row tailors for wishing to experiment, but wiser counsel would inform them otherwise. You mention two mongrel mixtures, but the alpaca and vicuna, however, are very nearly the same creature and their fibres therefore are quite compatible. 
As a general principle, it is inadvisable to intermix different fibres. It may be 'made in Scotland' but it sounds Chinese. I would recommend any of the lightweight 100% wool tweeds rather than this mongrel fabric.
New Posts  All Forums: