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Posts by Isbister

By jove you're quite right - round and round it goes. Even down to the same quotations on occasion. Still, it's fun to read - somehow, the more I have read a certain person trying to convince everyone of his point of view, the less I feel inclined to believe it. No doubt it works the other way round too.
^ Exactly so Roger - that is what I was struggling to say, but you have more wit and economy.
Nearly all the Northampton makers are in effect manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers, with their own bricks and mortar shops, besides selling on-line and through other shops. That is the only way of staying in business. Getting double what they 'should' be getting seems a slightly quaint way of looking at things - they are just businesses like any other, making things to sell as best they can.
 I would disagree with your first point - the differences in quality between a corrected grain upper and fine French calf will be clear to most consumers, as will the justification for one being more expensive than the other. No, I don't think the factories do use different sewing machines to bespoke makers, although hand sewing of some uppers can still be seen at EG and G&G.   XYZ may do things that way, and certainly there are two Northampton firms that make a point of...
Now you know quite well I was referring to the glued-on rib, as opposed to your (hand)sewn welt. The inseams of my shoes are perfectly sealed, thank you.
No the difference is not the GY welting, of course, but the upper, how carefully and selectively it has been cut out, how well sewn, how well finished. GY is easy to resole - personally I'm not convinced of the need to return GY shoes to the factory for a simple resole (although I do), provided you have a good repairer locally. The insole leather no doubt does vary for GY at different price points, and needs to be stouter for hand welting to be sewn through.
Equal to? Possibly better even. There is no thread within the insole to rot and admit the passage of moisture. Modern glue is up to the job, and as for objective knowledge, my personal experience of the matter would make me reluctant to expend significantly more money for no tangible benefit. Yes, it's expediency and economy, and perhaps depressing to traditionalists, but it's also a brilliant innovation. How many man hours have been saved at one minute versus four hours...
 Thank you for your advice. Yes, I was dimly aware that there is some difference between bench-made/factory-made and hand sewn everything. Yes, people may prefer 18th century modes of production for various reasons - intrinsically better, more individual, no machines involved, whatever - but they are not a very satisfactory answer, unless you wish 95% of the population to shuffle around in other people's hand-me-downs, so thank God for Goodyear machines I say.
 They're handsome shoes. I'm happy to apologise if my brusque words have offended your sensibilities; however I have not changed my view on the issue. A hand sewn welt may take perhaps half a day of a skilled craftsman's time, for which you must charge. The machine version - barely a minute or so. Not exactly the issue, but unless paying for half a day of your time will bring an appreciable benefit, I don't (indeed literally don't) see the point. If my GY welted shoes were...
Spoon-fed? ... why do you have to resort to what amounts to name-calling? I suspect I know rather more than you, having studied the subject and written various articles on shoes and shoe-makers. I live in the centre of shoemaking, I know people who work in the shoe factories. Frankly, I have to try hard to resist saying something along the lines of 'to suffer from what I think of as "rib failure" paranoia is itself a clear indicator of knowing rather little about shoe...
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