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Posts by Isbister

Mears Bespoke   I recommend Mears to anyone interested in having a tweed jacket made. They are MTO rather than bespoke and their website is somewhat cumbersome, but what they do they do very well. I've had a couple of jackets made, one for hacking out in (1000 gram thornproof) and the other an everyday Harris.  
That's very poor, but I have to say I am not surprised. I used to visit SAB quite a lot years ago when they had their original shop on Piccadilly and in those days they were a very genuine firm, making all their own saddlery and bridlery and with a good stock of country-type clothing, shoes etc.   Since that shop closed, the firm is a mere shadow of its former self and the staff have no particular product knowledge or interest in their market. Everything seems to be...
No. I would think they would be difficult to fake convincingly (unless you've never seen real Tricker's). Is there anything (other than the sole stitching issue) that might lead you to suspect they are fakes?   One or two Northampton firms make shoes that are quite similar to Tricker's in some ways, but they're not that close.
Neither did I - I've got no idea what he's talking about, it all sounds like varieties of ice cream.   I'm a little sceptical of the extravagant promises concerning bodily imperfections - nor does the 'pajama like and sweatsuit like' modifier inspire enormous confidence in the Neapolitan cut.
That seems excessive wear for just two months, although the red Dainite soles are a little softer than black and sepia soles. Have you worn them across excessively harsh or abrasive surfaces, eg. granite boulders? If not, I would return them to Tricker's - possibly they sewed the soles with insufficient tension.   Here are my 10 year-old Dainite-soled Loakes:       And here are some two-year old Sargents:       Although the studs are worn down across the middle of the...
My oldest pair I still wear at least once every week, sometimes twice. Mileage varies but if I'm planning say a weekend visit to London, expecting to visit shops, perhaps a gallery and taking in a restaurant - walking 3 or 4 miles perhaps, sometimes in the rain - they are my go-to pair. Off the top of my head I must have about 8 or 9 pairs of Dainite shoes, none of which has ever needed resoling, although some have been reheeled.
  Feedback? I like the tweed jacket actually, but the outfit (aside from the bow tie) speaks to me more of a rough night out in the saloon bar of a pub having spent the day digging ditches, than of a wedding. You must have a very deep-rooted objection to lounge suits to be thinking in these terms.
I presume you mean under the sole, rather than in the welt? It's unavoidable that the thread under the sole will begin to wear. However, even when it eventually wears right through, the stitching still seems to hold the sole in place as two threads are used, one from above and one from below, and knotted within the sole. Sometimes Dainite soles are attached with a channelled stitch, but usually the thread is on top of the sole. Dainite soles are very long-lasting - I...
  Most but not all of my Loake shoes have Dainite soles and I have not experienced the 'delamination' you describe. If they are leather-soled, I expect this could be down to the type of leather. Tricker's and C&J almost certainly use quite superior oak-tanned sole leather, which is more durable.
As I recall, the OP was asking for MTM recommendations rather than bespoke. Mears are certainly not bespoke, and you are correct in assuming their block is quite 'traditional', so it might well not be what our friend is looking for - but I have no particular knowledge of Oxxford, nor really much interest in American styles in general. I suspect going to Savile Row would be overkill, however - certainly a very expensive option.
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