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Posts by slifox

Scissors will cut through the plastic mesh just fine. With one big plastic mesh piece, there's no need to affix the mesh to the board -- the ironing board cover will keep it in place. I also added a thin layer of synthetic felt between the board/mesh and the cover, for a bit of extra padding (the felt is cut bigger than the board, so it gets wrapped around the edges when the cover cinches into place, making the edges padded/rounded)
FYI I ended up redoing it using a single piece of plastic mesh, like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZJKAQ2   The result is much easier to make and lasts longer
I'm personally not crazy about the color, but I think these are still very usable.   Not sure how they looked before, but they look decent now. They could use a bit more cleaning inside the brouging and around the seams (use a q-tip).   I'd fix the damage on the left shoe at the tip of the toe box. There are some good threads on fixing this kind of damage. Hopefully dye isn't needed.   Also clean/condition the edge of the sole, particularly where the...
Old thread, but posting this here in case it might be useful to anyone else.     I had this same problem even with the "high end" consumer ironing boards.   A thicker pad wasn't really helping: I'd still eventually get the "grill" pattern from the metal board, the thicker pad was making it harder to press clothes (because it could be compressed more), and the thicker pad absorbed more water from steam (which would eventually make the pad smell).   My solution was to layer...
I decided to experiment with dyeing for antiquing, since I wasn't getting satisfactory results with polish antiquing alone.   These boots have undergone a lot of modifications, including many different colors of polish, polish techniques (including drill buffing and flame polishing), re-insoling (I ripped out the sewed-in insole to replace with a heat-moldable insole), etc. I didn't particularly care what happened to them -- but if they turned out well, I'd still...
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