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The beeswax leather scuffs really easily like that, you can get most of it out by simply wetting you thumb and rubbing it. Conditioning should do the trick as well.
A buffered acidic solution contains a weak acid and its conjugate base (vice versa for a buffered base). For example glycolic acid has the formula HOCH2COOH, then its conjugate base would be the same other than the loss off a hydrogen OCH2COOH- . Any weak acid does not fully dissociate in water it sits at an equilibrium, only a small percentage of the acidic molecules actually gives up their hydrogen in water making the solution more acidic. The addition of any basic...
I am a bit lost on how you are using 'buffer' still. Are you using it in the way that the leather can shift pH a bit and still be in a healthy zone? Or are you referring to a buffer solution? A buffer solution minimizes the change in pH by shifting it's equilibrium to match the addition of acidic hydronium ions, or basic hydroxide ions. Leathers are tanned with acidic buffers, and some products like vinegar (another good reason to use it) can act as a buffer solution. What...
If enough there is a large enough percentage of oils, it will be soft enough to apply at room temperature. Solvent is not the only way to mix water with oils and waxes, you can also create emulsions using emulsifying waxes. They work on the principle that the water and waxes/oils do not dissolve with each other, but the wax hardens enough after a thorough mixing to suspend water molecules throughout the mixture. This will give a mixture that is much softer than the waxes...
No added solvent is needed to mix carnuba, beeswax, avocado and jojoba oil. They are all non-polar molecules which means they will soluble in each other, they really aren't very disparate, the difference between a wax and a oil is just the length of the carbon chain. They could easily be mixed by simply melting the solid beeswax and carnuba and stirring it together with the oils.  The hardness is would simply be dependent on the ratio of oils to waxes.  It should be quite...
"Fine leathers" is not referring to the kind of leathers that red wing uses. It is referring to the leathers used in dress shoes and such, not the heavier oiled leathers red wing uses. Sno-seal is not appropriate for suede or fine leathers either, unless you are looking to "dub" a pair of suede boots.
The thing is theres none of it in my left shoe, I wear the same socks on each foot, and I really doubt one foot sweats exponentially more than the other. Besides my feet don't sweat a whole lot. Also I doubt any of my socks have metal fibers in them.
They're only a year or so old, never been repaired. They were't black like that when they were new.
Anyone have an idea why the leather insole is so black in this shoe? My other one looks completely normal. It easily scratches off, you can see the scrape i made in the photo. It doesn't seem to be  anywhere but the insole. Could it be mould?     
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