Most of their ties are not made by Drakes but the ones they sell for around $135 are.
A Drakes tie costs the same at wholesale with or without the Drakes label, and no merchant can sell them for $85.
Start with a square that is 16 1/2" on a side so there is some bulk to hold it in the pocket. Then fold it a minimum of twice (three times is better), so the bulk is immediately below the pocket opening. You don't need silk at the bottom of the pocket as it doesn't support the rest of the square anyway.
They are a sign that the wearer wants attention but otherwise are neithe more or less formal than a four in hand. A wool challis is less formal, as is a wool challis fih, and a midnight blue satin is more formal, just alike a midnight blue fih.
There have been several "standard" widths the past fifty years. 3 1/2" perhaps has had the most run but 2 7/8" was the width for quite a while in the 70s and 80s (assuming I have my decades right) while 3.75 to 4" was the wide standard until just a few years ago.