Most of their ties are not made by Drakes but the ones they sell for around $135 are.
A Drakes tie costs the same at wholesale with or without the Drakes label, and no merchant can sell them for $85.
Start with a square that is 16 1/2" on a side so there is some bulk to hold it in the pocket. Then fold it a minimum of twice (three times is better), so the bulk is immediately below the pocket opening. You don't need silk at the bottom of the pocket as it doesn't support the rest of the square anyway.