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Posts by VegTan

Here are a staking machine and its mechanism. Hardened leather after drying is sandwiched between vibrating stakes to soften the fibers of the leather.Boarding by hand or machine is another method to soften leather. Besides softening, it develops grain patterns — willow grain, box grain, and pebbled grain. Box grain is considered as one of the origin of box calf.Here are other explanations of its origin from Handmade Shoes for Men.These are current definitions.
Looks like a Japanese importer pronounced Vici Kid as By-Cy Kid incorrectly.
Guarded Goods (http://www.guardedgoods.com/) shows pics.http://imgur.com/a/5FbC1http://imgur.com/a/iqrxWhttp://imgur.com/a/QRLw0http://imgur.com/a/pXDcVVery informative.
Chamois leather from chamois seems to have been a rare leather even in 1873.I've looked through the webpages below, but no tannery seems to use chamois skins.
Exactly.The leather used by the experiment is made from deerskin by the following method.As for terminology, looks like substitute for Chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra) may vary depending on the country.BTW, Baker's website has been redesigned.http://www.jfjbaker.co.uk/
There are small differences. Besides a sock lining, it looks like Viberg inserts a bottom filler. I'm not sure about its material.http://vimeo.com/7021260
Yes. Besides, Viberg makes nailed down boots as well.http://vibergboot.wordpress.com/2009/11/05/factory-4/http://vibergboot.wordpress.com/2011/03/13/serviceboot-sampleonly-horsehide-dead-stock-half-sole-nailed-down/Here is a stitchdown construction by Wesco/Viberg: stitching (red), glue (green), and nails (blue). I suppose McKay is sturdier than glue.
Bill Amberg's Rocket Briefcase seems to be the first product.http://www.billamberg.com/the-rocket-cordovan/I came across an interesting paper.http://nihon-shika.info/kenkyu_2.pdf (in Japanese)Experiments are done on acrylic boards as follows.Here are scratch marks on acrylic boards by 3 kinds of chamois leather (deer suede), microfiber felt, microfiber eyeglass cloth, kleenex, and cotton face cloth.Here are diameters of fiber bundles by scanning electron microscope:...
The former webpage is user-friendly. http://web.archive.org/web/20000510041202/http://www.nicksboots.com/boots/boots.htm Here is a drawing: Nick's Welted (left) and White's (right). Nick's Welted uses a wider rolled welt, so they have clearer double bottom stitching. Nick's Contender doesn't have a rolled welt and uses McKay instead of nails. "Contender" is impressed on a shaft or a sock lining, afaik.
As for Bookbinder, I presume there was another reason because shell cordovan was less popular.(Bookbinder was registered in 1986.)http://www.ipo.gov.uk/tmcase/Results/1/UK00001268361As for Polished Cobbler, I presume it was substitute for shell cordovan. According to Allen Edmonds' Catalog (http://issuu.com/allenedmonds), shell cordovan is discontinued from 1970 to SS 1983. Polished Cobbler first appears in SS 1978 and on the cover of FW 1978.Here is a letter dated...
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