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Posts by VegTan

About leather grades and tensile strength;From Direct Selling Shoe Manual (1940).From Analysis of Leather and Materials Used in Making it (1931).
That is written by a man who worked as a leather buyer for 15 years at Japanese shoemaker, Otsuka, and is common knowledge for leather specialists. Here is another explanation;From American Leathers(1929)Here is a schematic from American Leathers; Toe-tips and vamps are from bend, and quarters and tongues are from shoulder and belly. As written above, I think shoulder and belly are not used by high-quality shoemakers such as Edward Green and Cleverley, who say 3 pairs a...
They seem to be slightly loose grain.Genuine loose grainFrom Men's Ex magazine
Mr.Matsuzaki, who was publisher of Esquire Japan, founded his company around 2005. New Last is published by this company.http://www.webchronos.net/Mr.Sugawara(below) was editor-in-chief of old Last from vol.1 through vol.13, and he is now editor-in-chief of new Last.http://openers.jp/fashion/flagship/john_lobb/photo_capitalcollection_party.htmlwurger, sure thing!
It was Regal's patent and the link is http://www.google.com/patents/US2008237That is P.76 of LAST Vol.6 published by Esquire Japan in 2005. The monks are Cortay's bespoke shoes.
These C&J benchgrades, sold by A Fine Pair of Shoes a few years ago, are factory seconds. These natural marks can be concealed with pigments, and low-priced makers prefer pigmented leathers because dress shoes are required to look perfect in the market.
Yes, but this break-in method is for new shoes. Please don't squash a toe box.
To that end, pigmented leathers are made! Roughly speaking, there are 3 kinds of leathers; aniline leathers, burnished leathers(unfinished leathers which are finished by shoe factories), and pigmented leathres. Allen Edmonds says 6-7 pairs per a piece of calfskin(http://vimeo.com/4814754, around 09:10), and I think Allen Edmonds uses pigmented leathers.
Here is another moc toe stitching. Are these also Edward Green?
I bet on Trickers. If AS, they should write "Made in Northamptonshire" or "Made in Rushden".
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