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Posts by VegTan

It is my understanding that the blue part is top grain leather and the red part is split leather.Isn't top grain American English?http://www.iultcs.org/leather_terms/t.aspStretch marks become factory second.http://www.styleforum.net/t/228153/the-official-shoe-care-thread-tutorials-photos-etc/6030#post_6444262The ratio of bend and shoulder seems to be almost same.
englade321, wurger, done! http://www.styleforum.net/t/354137/leather-wrinkles-and-its-qualities/ Munky, that's great to hear!
The below from American Leathers is a way to cut with the least amount of wastage.Red wing uses whole steerhide as above, so some are better quality and some are poorer quality.http://www.flickr.com/photos/markestes/6281292999/in/set-72157627885241522On the other hand, Grenson says shoulder “goes straight to garbage” because shoulder has more noticeable stretch marks than bend does. Can you see them around shoulder?I think that shoulder and belly are not used by...
About testing the “break”(creasing quality);From American Leathers (1929).The below from Men's Ex magazine is written by a man who worked as a leather buyer for 15 years at Japanese shoemaker, Otsuka.
About loose grain and coarse wrinkles;
About leather grades and tensile strength;From Direct Selling Shoe Manual (1940).From Analysis of Leather and Materials Used in Making it (1931).
That is written by a man who worked as a leather buyer for 15 years at Japanese shoemaker, Otsuka, and is common knowledge for leather specialists. Here is another explanation;From American Leathers(1929)Here is a schematic from American Leathers; Toe-tips and vamps are from bend, and quarters and tongues are from shoulder and belly. As written above, I think shoulder and belly are not used by high-quality shoemakers such as Edward Green and Cleverley, who say 3 pairs a...
They seem to be slightly loose grain.Genuine loose grainFrom Men's Ex magazine
Mr.Matsuzaki, who was publisher of Esquire Japan, founded his company around 2005. New Last is published by this company.http://www.webchronos.net/Mr.Sugawara(below) was editor-in-chief of old Last from vol.1 through vol.13, and he is now editor-in-chief of new Last.http://openers.jp/fashion/flagship/john_lobb/photo_capitalcollection_party.htmlwurger, sure thing!
It was Regal's patent and the link is http://www.google.com/patents/US2008237That is P.76 of LAST Vol.6 published by Esquire Japan in 2005. The monks are Cortay's bespoke shoes.
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