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Posts by VegTan

A glazing jack and a glass cylinder. A glass jar of shoe cream would be a substitute.
Mohave is usually called roughout leather, and it is not calfskin but steerhide.http://www.redwingheritage.com/legend/#&f=&m=/partial/leather/roughout-leather&s=leather
Some people in the past seemed to differentiate between top grain (full grain or full top grain) and snuffed top grain (grain snuffed, corrected grain, sanded grain or hand buffed).I suppose you are probably right.
It is my understanding that the blue part is top grain leather and the red part is split leather.Isn't top grain American English?http://www.iultcs.org/leather_terms/t.aspStretch marks become factory second.http://www.styleforum.net/t/228153/the-official-shoe-care-thread-tutorials-photos-etc/6030#post_6444262The ratio of bend and shoulder seems to be almost same.
englade321, wurger, done! http://www.styleforum.net/t/354137/leather-wrinkles-and-its-qualities/ Munky, that's great to hear!
The below from American Leathers is a way to cut with the least amount of wastage.Red wing uses whole steerhide as above, so some are better quality and some are poorer quality.http://www.flickr.com/photos/markestes/6281292999/in/set-72157627885241522On the other hand, Grenson says shoulder “goes straight to garbage” because shoulder has more noticeable stretch marks than bend does. Can you see them around shoulder?I think that shoulder and belly are not used by...
About testing the “break”(creasing quality);From American Leathers (1929).The below from Men's Ex magazine is written by a man who worked as a leather buyer for 15 years at Japanese shoemaker, Otsuka.
About loose grain and coarse wrinkles;
About leather grades and tensile strength;From Direct Selling Shoe Manual (1940).From Analysis of Leather and Materials Used in Making it (1931).
That is written by a man who worked as a leather buyer for 15 years at Japanese shoemaker, Otsuka, and is common knowledge for leather specialists. Here is another explanation;From American Leathers(1929)Here is a schematic from American Leathers; Toe-tips and vamps are from bend, and quarters and tongues are from shoulder and belly. As written above, I think shoulder and belly are not used by high-quality shoemakers such as Edward Green and Cleverley, who say 3 pairs a...
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