Ticket No. 4794 below was made on 29/10/85, so that Malverns (No. 4406) are before 1985.http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q6UEFwNu23k/TdUlxFHgZ-I/AAAAAAAAARU/VqbFPuBnL0I/s1600/Twickenham+Specs.JPGhttp://uptowndandy.blogspot.com/2011/05/vintage-edward-green-for-paul-stuart.htmlI'm not sure, but Trafalgar's may be pre-Hlustik.
AFAIK, Zug was Scottish tannery W & J Martin's trademark. Just like Nettleton's trademark Loafer, it is now a generic name.http://www.trademarkia.com/zug-wj-martin-72285033.htmlEngland tannery William Paul also made scotch grain leather and named it Beva.Here is a recipe for Zug and Beva.