Maybe I'm wrong, but I'd have a good tailor take your measurements. We're the same height, but I'm 30lbs heavier than you and take 42 jacket, and have the same waist size. And that's a long inseam you have too.
This sounds like it'd look great with patch pockets. I have a worsted wool jacket with horn buttons and patch pockets that is lighter than navy and looks beautiful in strong sunlight that dresses up our down really well.