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Posts by thelonius

Yes, thanks, this has been discussed earlier. JM Weston, some Paraboot, and the small firm of Horace Batten use the method that I know of. DW has already discussed the inherent defficiencies of the method. But it was not what I was thinking of - compression at high pressure to preform insoles has , I thought, been developed.
And is there one ? Isn't there a method that compresses thick leather insole to form a ready formed holdfast that can be sewn by the same machine that is used in Goodyear welting to sew the gemming/upper/welt ? Or did I dream it ?
Un agent provocateur, without doubt.
it rains almost all the time in Wales
HW doesn't necessarily mean bespoke. Makers of RTW HW can be reasonably priced (eg Vass and others in that region). There's someone in Northampton who will make HW for around £400, although you have to wait. You may find that in your area there are makers who are not too expensive.
Why don’t you just try what DWF suggested. Taking some GYW and HW shoes appart and trying to rip open the inseaming. You’ll see the difference. There^s no contest. The HW shoe is solid as a rock, while the GYW is fragile. The problem is that (as I posted moons ago), this doesn’t negate the fact (my personal experience, and with a statistic “n” of 1) that the Trickers brogues I bought in 1978, and walked all round Europe in, that got totally wet (I mean totally wet and...
The proverb "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link", if Nick's point is that the weak link is the welt stitch, I don't think carries too much weight in shoe construction. The welt stitch is (I understand from reading) easily repared, but a failed GY ribbing is not at all so. Clearly, some links are much more easily dealt with than others.
This point has indeed been made many times previously in this thread. As has the issue of "weakest link". It's going round in circles.
Yes, you're right of course. It's the labour cost element that changes in Hungary. I haven't got the information to know what that represents with respect to overheads, purchase of leather and other materials. It would be nice to know, including what one of their craftspersons were being paid in comparison to a western European or US person in a similar role. Well, they tried it, and failed. That's their story isn't it - succeeding by selling at reasonable prices when they...
Meanwhile, over in Budapest, several shoemakers are working to a business model that involves making excellent shoes, hand sewn at the inseaming and welting stages, selling their products at very reasonable prices, and making enough profit (but not "maximizing profit") to pay overheads and wages for the craftsmen/women they employ.
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