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Posts by marcodalondra

So these JL Northampton in Burgundy Museum calf are not as good as any American counterpart ?
obviously linen
Thanks for your reply. I am not too sure what method do they actually employ, but knowing who they manufacture for, quality issue that would not even be good for seconds are definetelly off the table. The brand in question would have in-house technologist responsible for the manufacturing process and quality assurance, and they would have approved the production process and factory before contracting out the work (I have a related diret work experience, albeit not in the...
I was discussing the reasons why good-year machines are not very common in Italy with a Factory near Naples that has one and does classic men's shoes manufacturing for a very famous French luxury group. They told me they use the machine with the same insole as if they were doing it by hand, just prepared differently but WITHOUT any stick on linen stripes or cork filling afterwards. What is your take on this approach?
I have had three Chinos made in Brisbane Moss and have two more cuts of fabric to be made up. I have used the midweight cotton drill but they also have an heavier version, which I think is probably better for a jacket.
Thanks for clarifying, Steven specifically pointed out to the Leather stiffner. We have indeed settled on the soft chiseled shape because it could easely be used for more sharp chisel, as well as Almond toe, so it is almost three last in one. I have also super imposed the last on one of my more rounder shoes and I can also see that it could be matched. I guess I will need a very soft round one for things like Albert slippers/house slippers and desert boots when I get to...
As far as I understand, if it is the toe box shape that you want to change, this will be achieved by just shaping differently the toe stiffner (cannot recall the right term), or at least this is why I have gone for a softer chisel toe box. My lasts above have also been shaped with a elongated "ankle part" (again not sure of the term) so that they can be used to make loafers/slip on if needed. I was told that small ankle boots can also be made using the same last as far...
Thanks, I really appreciated your help and knowledge 👏
Got measured my Steven by appointment. Other than measuring he took note of all the main bones and other bit and pieces. He took the time to talk me through what shoemakers will then do with this last ;-)
Off course I have asked. I have two options, either a fully handmade version by an artisan or using a shoe factory that will have just to amend the pattern to adapt to my last. I have spoken to some factories and all told me that they would threat this the same as when they do one off sample runs to try new model. My last would not be different by a one off trial version. The maker/ factories are in Naples Italy and they both use third party lastmakers. For me the...
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