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Posts by marcodalondra

Quote: Originally Posted by Xiaogou View Post Will you follow your cutter? it would be interesting to hear. We had this debate before with Matt and he stated that he would stick with the House rather then following the cutter. My own experience is that many customers ends up following the cutter in his new ventures, not only when they set up on their own, but often even when they change Sartoria they work for. The person that introduced my family to my tailor had followed...
maybe I was not clear, but the blue suit fit as Badly as M Rubinacci own jacket, albeit the guy is sitting down with the jacket open and probably not pulled on properly, so not 100% sure if it is an accurate reflection.On the grey suit comment on the sleeve: this is a bespoke jacket with very high armholes and narrow sleeve (typical of Naples), the guy is lifting his arm up and pushing forward, he is not still, and the sleeve are folding the same way the would fold in...
One of the reason I posted his picture was to show an alternative view on Italian CBD, and not only the CEO of International Corporations. Although the grey suit has nothing wrong IMHO, whilst the blue one looks like a Rubinacci on Mariano himself (clue: shoulder)
I do not think Scholte had strong shoulder like Huntsman for example, although indeed padded. I have seen a DoW's Tweed Suit at V&A museum, and it was teh usual Scholte construction, although probably made by someone else.
Previously posted on this forum
Pretty sure that is a double forward pleat.When I got my formal trousers made, part of an order of 4 with other standard trousers, whilst the trousermaker was going over each configuration, when he got to the dinner trousers, he went "naturally these comes with straight pockets, pleats and no back pockets...With straight pockets, and braids going over the seam, how do you deal with the pocket opening?
The braid does not cover the seam, As in either case it runs on the side, not over the seam, and certainly it is not the main purpose. In any case, I do not see how my example would be contrary to anything (the pockets are slightly opened as the trouser is flat, not worn, and slightly uneven), never mind the fact that it comes from one of the godfathers of Savile Row and most famous for its evening wear. Braids and stripes have appeared on both evening and military formal...
I would not consider fairly classic dinner trousers RTW flat fronts.All the proper dinner trousers I have seen have all had the single braids mounted on the front panels. Military trousers with braids (like the Irish guard trousers) have the same configuration.Here is an example of Henry Poole formal trousers: even with the bad resolution, if zoomed you can see the pockets opening up that show the braids mounted on the front panels
side pockets on standard trousers are most often then not slanted. Formal trousers have straight pockets As the satin stripe goes over them
I have posted that picture before, both on here and my blog. It is Neapolitanand part of suits made up for a menswear tailoring event run in Sanremo
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