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Posts by marcodalondra

Previously posted on this forum
Pretty sure that is a double forward pleat.When I got my formal trousers made, part of an order of 4 with other standard trousers, whilst the trousermaker was going over each configuration, when he got to the dinner trousers, he went "naturally these comes with straight pockets, pleats and no back pockets...With straight pockets, and braids going over the seam, how do you deal with the pocket opening?
The braid does not cover the seam, As in either case it runs on the side, not over the seam, and certainly it is not the main purpose. In any case, I do not see how my example would be contrary to anything (the pockets are slightly opened as the trouser is flat, not worn, and slightly uneven), never mind the fact that it comes from one of the godfathers of Savile Row and most famous for its evening wear. Braids and stripes have appeared on both evening and military formal...
I would not consider fairly classic dinner trousers RTW flat fronts.All the proper dinner trousers I have seen have all had the single braids mounted on the front panels. Military trousers with braids (like the Irish guard trousers) have the same configuration.Here is an example of Henry Poole formal trousers: even with the bad resolution, if zoomed you can see the pockets opening up that show the braids mounted on the front panels
side pockets on standard trousers are most often then not slanted. Formal trousers have straight pockets As the satin stripe goes over them
I have posted that picture before, both on here and my blog. It is Neapolitanand part of suits made up for a menswear tailoring event run in Sanremo
I was talking about worsted to answer your comment that one should only look at Fox for it.Fox worsted flannel, although nice at first, it has not held up very well for me.Harrison is much more hard wearing and has an equally good colour saturation. It may feel less soft to the touch when first made up but it is the same quality that make it hold a crease much better.
Harrison has a good selection of worsted flannel as well, that I actually prefer to Fox version
thanks, will hopefully not need to travel with makers that much, but it gives you confidence to own your own last and have the ability to change if it needs be. Also the benefit of having a bespoke last made by a reputable lastmaker and then using even RTW factory willing to take a fe extra order and do small modification to cut patterns.
Quick update: I have just ordered my bespoke lasts today, and have to thank@bengal-stripe for the invaluable help. I have ended up going with a very traditional lastmaker, formely employed by a famous St James shoemaker and currently still working with some west end companies. I will further update this thread when the last is completed. After reading this and similar thread, getting BS feedback and most importantly meeting the lastmaker to discuss how the last would be...
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