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Posts by marcodalondra

Non that I know of in English. There are few in Italian which are mostly not current, but can be found in Italian Libraries. Where are you located? London? I guess part of the training from a retail brand is a full brief about their product and what differentiate it. Otherwise you need to use the Internet and this forum to extrapolate as much info as you can.
They have probably lost the know-how then, but the stuff that you see in vintage pictures was most probably made by Novara.Was the fabric you saw marked Dupioni?
The best Dupioni silk was produced by a mill that is now part of the Zegna group ( Tessitura Di Novara). I think the actual mill has been shut down but the machines and know how should have been transferred to another production site. Worth asking your local Zegna agent/distributor
My 2d drawing have been transformed into a 3D version, ready to produce the actual patterns:
What about this: It is a dark blue going into grey in real life, very unique.I am considering this exact cloth for my first DB suit next winter.Edit: took another picture that show the blue hue better in between two different shades of greys
Will post the remake once is done (if I do indeed go for the derby rather then Oxford approach) ... I have not come across a similar design yet (as a combination of design elements)In the picture my great grandfather is wearing balmoral boots, this older gentleman next to him, which it may have been my great -great grandfather is wearing this ball strap spectators and a boater hat.My great grandfather was a serious good dresser. In the summer pictures is always wearing...
A frock jacket as opposed to overcoat/topcoat would definitely be costume, sorry.The front dart was a feature of certain DB formalwear, like frocks and DB dipped front waistcoatsEdit: I did not mean formal today in the strictest sense of an alternative or to be worn over morning tailcoat, but as a more formal alternative to a Chesterfield
The incongruency is in the fact that even a modern frock should be seen as a formal coat and patch pocket are too informal IMHO.The raincoat you posted above with waist seam is missing the central front seam to be defined a frock cut.I would like to keep the idea to myself about what I have in mind for my modern paletot as it will be the results of over two years of research and back and forth of idea with my tailor. The differences will be in some additional darts/seams...
I have sporty thighs as my tailor put it and cannot use delicate fabrics for my trousers, hence I need to stay away from 2x1 or wollen flannel. The Fox Brother Worsted flannel was a bit of a disappointment to be honest, whilst a friend that experienced both, and with the same sporty thighs and issue, has recommend me the Harrison range. It has a different hand to be fair (less soft then fox's) however I do not really care if it last better.
I have the sample book and will be ordering various shades of grey for odd trousers as I have had feedback from a friend with the same problem as me in wearing out the croch area of trousers, that Harrisons is much more resistant than Fox (the latter only lasted me a season and half of average fortnightly wear, and also did not hold shape well at all...)
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