or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by marcodalondra

The movement are not exactly the same but the effect is more or less the same, with one arm worst then the other (clear in the Marzotto picture sitting down). I think you are the one that is full of... How different are these exactly? Movement or position (they are actually still having "moved" the arms from a relaxed position into folded or say folded one, the upper arms are "scrunching" in both cases
Once again, i do not think P Graziono is a fantastic example, however he represented another category of Italians wearing CBD. I also agreed that the blue suit in the picture did look bad and had the M Rubninacci type of bad shoulder, however having said that, it needs to be considered that the whole fit is affected by the way is wearing the jacket (opened, sat down, not pulled up correctly as it can be seen by the gap between the shirt collar and the jacket collar), hence...
Mine was a sarcastic comment on a_y argument
Another aspect that is being often misinterpreted on neapolitan tailoring is the fact that all the should expression must be "spallacamicia" and/or "arricciata" when as explained previously there are also more "formal"/linear expression. Most importantly, what is really much appreciated in Italian and Neapolitan tailoring, with more or less shoulder structure, is the confort you experience wearing it. I do not really feel like wearing a jacket when I am at wok, and some...
I have to disagree. I have been to quite few black tie events in London and the majority of people, at the good ones, wore patent leather, even if plenty had derbys type of patent later.At the less good event, you see a lot of people just wearing the normal "office" black shoes, not even polished in most cases (company partys).
By the same observation on the grey suits Archetypal_yuppy made, all Marzotto's suit where is actually in any movement with his arms, his suits are poorly made....
Quote: Originally Posted by Xiaogou View Post Will you follow your cutter? it would be interesting to hear. We had this debate before with Matt and he stated that he would stick with the House rather then following the cutter. My own experience is that many customers ends up following the cutter in his new ventures, not only when they set up on their own, but often even when they change Sartoria they work for. The person that introduced my family to my tailor had followed...
maybe I was not clear, but the blue suit fit as Badly as M Rubinacci own jacket, albeit the guy is sitting down with the jacket open and probably not pulled on properly, so not 100% sure if it is an accurate reflection.On the grey suit comment on the sleeve: this is a bespoke jacket with very high armholes and narrow sleeve (typical of Naples), the guy is lifting his arm up and pushing forward, he is not still, and the sleeve are folding the same way the would fold in...
One of the reason I posted his picture was to show an alternative view on Italian CBD, and not only the CEO of International Corporations. Although the grey suit has nothing wrong IMHO, whilst the blue one looks like a Rubinacci on Mariano himself (clue: shoulder)
I do not think Scholte had strong shoulder like Huntsman for example, although indeed padded. I have seen a DoW's Tweed Suit at V&A museum, and it was teh usual Scholte construction, although probably made by someone else.
New Posts  All Forums: