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Posts by marcodalondra

Matt, I know several people that have worked there and have left, so I know from direct feedback how things work there. You are their perfect customer. You think they are the only one in Naples that can deliver good reliable service. That is farther from the truth. Said this before: The English model is to set up a tailoring business, house style, owners, front of the house (salesmen) and cutters and tailors. The Italian model has always been that the cutter run his own...
Matt you are really naive. Why would I want to visit Rubinacci? And off course most people that have left that house have ever mentioned officially to have been working there. Legal proceeding may be one of the reason???? Anna Matuozzo only recently mentioned this one her renew website, I guess many years have passed now. I do not sit on either camp of pro or against the Paone, but believing that he only did adjustment is simply ridiculous. Cutters in Naples just draft...
Sorry Matt and you really believe that? You must be really naive.Lots of tailor have left Rubinacci and started very successful businesses both front and back of the house, with Neapolitan clientele.This time however they risk impacting their trunk show business... It is not the first time someone would try to discreted an ex employee becoming a competitor.I have read some paper of them taking to court an ex employee that was wrongly accused of "stealing patterns", when...
The movement are not exactly the same but the effect is more or less the same, with one arm worst then the other (clear in the Marzotto picture sitting down). I think you are the one that is full of... How different are these exactly? Movement or position (they are actually still having "moved" the arms from a relaxed position into folded or say folded one, the upper arms are "scrunching" in both cases
Once again, i do not think P Graziono is a fantastic example, however he represented another category of Italians wearing CBD. I also agreed that the blue suit in the picture did look bad and had the M Rubninacci type of bad shoulder, however having said that, it needs to be considered that the whole fit is affected by the way is wearing the jacket (opened, sat down, not pulled up correctly as it can be seen by the gap between the shirt collar and the jacket collar), hence...
Mine was a sarcastic comment on a_y argument
Another aspect that is being often misinterpreted on neapolitan tailoring is the fact that all the should expression must be "spallacamicia" and/or "arricciata" when as explained previously there are also more "formal"/linear expression. Most importantly, what is really much appreciated in Italian and Neapolitan tailoring, with more or less shoulder structure, is the confort you experience wearing it. I do not really feel like wearing a jacket when I am at wok, and some...
I have to disagree. I have been to quite few black tie events in London and the majority of people, at the good ones, wore patent leather, even if plenty had derbys type of patent later.At the less good event, you see a lot of people just wearing the normal "office" black shoes, not even polished in most cases (company partys).
By the same observation on the grey suits Archetypal_yuppy made, all Marzotto's suit where is actually in any movement with his arms, his suits are poorly made....
Quote: Originally Posted by Xiaogou View Post Will you follow your cutter? it would be interesting to hear. We had this debate before with Matt and he stated that he would stick with the House rather then following the cutter. My own experience is that many customers ends up following the cutter in his new ventures, not only when they set up on their own, but often even when they change Sartoria they work for. The person that introduced my family to my tailor had followed...
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