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Posts by marcodalondra

I think I mentioned this before talking about the Brand "Nicola Blasi":ABLA Fashion For Men was a company and a factory set up by Nicola Blasi (junior), son of Angelo Blasi (senior), great bespoke tailor (Angelo BLAsi=ABLA) and grandson of Nicola Blasi (senior), one of the greatest neapolitan tailors in the cross century period 1800/1900. The brand was created in 1963 and went on until 1990. A predecessor to Kiton, Isaia and Attolini offer now.The real successor to Abla is...
As I said earlier, many tailors have passed by Rubinacci and moved on. Some joined other businesses, and other set up on their own. Let's not forget that Rubinacci himself has mostly recruited head tailors formed by others. Panico was there I believe from 1972 to 1990/91 but I believe he was trained somewhere else (Most tailors at the least in their 50's left school at age 9/10 and joined a Sartoria, probably a good one if they later became master tailors, and in fact...
Indeed since the 1960 there has been a progressive move away from classic meanswear, in Naples like the rest of the world, for the general people on the street. However it depends on where you take your sampling. For instance even in London, if you just walk around the West End (Piccadilly, Soho, Oxford street), you will arguably see examples of Sartorial splendour. Walk around the City (Bank, Moorgate, Liverpool Street) and you will indeed see a majority of well dressed...
Aurelio De Laurentiis, film producer, and current owner of SSC Napoli
I call this "re-cut to measure" but make no mistake, it is no-where close to bespoke.Even if your tailor was going to completely deconstruct the garment to separate flat pannels (which I have done) there are limitations resulting from "missing fabrics": you cannot add fabric where it has already been cut off. This will have an impact on both jackets and shirts armholes and collars.So do not kid yourself that the re-cut garment is every inch as a bespoke one
I mention Caggiula and a day later pictures appear here...
Matt, I know several people that have worked there and have left, so I know from direct feedback how things work there. You are their perfect customer. You think they are the only one in Naples that can deliver good reliable service. That is farther from the truth. Said this before: The English model is to set up a tailoring business, house style, owners, front of the house (salesmen) and cutters and tailors. The Italian model has always been that the cutter run his own...
Matt you are really naive. Why would I want to visit Rubinacci? And off course most people that have left that house have ever mentioned officially to have been working there. Legal proceeding may be one of the reason???? Anna Matuozzo only recently mentioned this one her renew website, I guess many years have passed now. I do not sit on either camp of pro or against the Paone, but believing that he only did adjustment is simply ridiculous. Cutters in Naples just draft...
Sorry Matt and you really believe that? You must be really naive.Lots of tailor have left Rubinacci and started very successful businesses both front and back of the house, with Neapolitan clientele.This time however they risk impacting their trunk show business... It is not the first time someone would try to discreted an ex employee becoming a competitor.I have read some paper of them taking to court an ex employee that was wrongly accused of "stealing patterns", when...
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