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Posts by marcodalondra

Another misconception: the good reason is that it looks best and people did open their DB jackets when sitting down.People still wear 3 pieces suit and there are no noticeable differences in Heath level between a SB and a DB jacket with today fabrics weight.What defines your norm? An online guide?
Yours may well be, but the ones from reputable tailors and wearers kept in museum or that have been shown on catalogues from the golden period, for the majority, were self faced. Take as an example the many of DoW that have survived (I think two or three are kept at the Met in NYC).IMO it would not look semless as in most light condition you could see a gap, and IMHO, at that point is better to have a clear different piece of clothing, that is however made in the fabric...
This is one of the reasons, after my "rebelling years" that i went back into classic mensmwear. My grandfather always wore a tie, even if he had to stay all day at home, when he probably would wear a wool/cashmere cardigan over the shirt and tie. When out, you could rarely see him without a hat. Although he was in his late 80's in the 1990's, and was generally very open minded on many aspects of modern life, but he always commented on how sloppy kids dressed nowadays...
One thing I do not get here is the fact that Black Tie's waistcoat are always referred to having lapels in the same materials as the lapels of the jackets (e.g. satin or grosgrain silk) as being the norm. All the museum pieces I have seen from notable tailors and bespoke wearer from early 1900 to 1960 had always the lapels in self facing fabric, never in silk satin or grosgrain.
O' Mast only featured a very small sampling of what the city has to offer. The Ciardi's family are very respectable and do produce a cleaner version of a Neapolitan jacket. Ciardi snr was Angelo Blasi apprentice and was "nominated" as his heir by Blasi himself. However, as far as I know, Ciardi or even Panico price point are not really set at entry level market.
Milan is the banking and general financial centre of Italy and does not have a specific business area like the City in London or Downtown in NYC, so you tend to see more banking and general professionals within the city. Similarly in Rome, where you are likely to come across many politicians and people involved within the national administration, where classic menswear is the rigour. Still about sampling... About Florence: when I lived in Italy, as a young adult, we would...
Again this is a response given by someone with the narrowest of the experience but believing otherwise . I already explained this to Matt in response to his first statement, and he did not have a counter argument: it depend from your sampling! Pure and simple! The majority of New Yorker, Londoners, Parisian or any other City dress like shit. Take your sampling in the professional works of each city and then you can compare. The core clients for the tailoring industry in...
I am sure you know by now that a tailoring house has many jobs and starting as an apprentice there will get you nowhere close to a pattern. So he was an apprentice tailor (in the loose English term of someone that can stitch) if anything. I concede that having studied costume design, and with a keen eye for garment building, he could have had a great insight in those operations, but was not thanks to this that he ended up in a bigger job as designer as you put itRe-read...
and I was explaining he did not start in "cutting" (unless he means cutting threads) and that was a bad example
Apprentice at a tailoring house does not mean at all that was an apprentice cutter, so it is you that should learn more. (As well as reading in between the lines of marketing materials)
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