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Posts by marcodalondra

Rounder backside. I have read an Italian etiquette book from the 1950's that in the menswear section even claimed that the double vents were an "invention" of Italian tailors to accommodate this....
Leaving aside virtual theory about horse riding and hands in the pocket or other outdated theories, if you use your tuxedo to attend social events were you actually spend time sitting down and having dinner, then the vents are a necessary practicality as they look better and do not let the back of the jacket bulge up and feel uncomfortable. Even the Duke got all of his dinner jacket and tuxedo double vented. Finally if you have a Mediterranean man body, then a double...
Dear Mr Ambrosi, Thanks for your reply but obviously not all of your customer are really happy with your business as the many complaint on this forum prove. I would focus on resolving the issues promptly with the existing clients before expanding further, instead of calling them fat like you did with Mafoofan on the "Ambrosi warning" thread. I know the Neapolitan market very well and I do not agree you are the best trousermaker in the world but you are free to believe...
I have tried to draw on your picture with a crappy iphone app to better explain myself. In the first I made an arrow to point the place on your shoulder where the sleeve /armscye seam should be placed. Get someone to measure the distance from that point to the current one and that measure should be cut back from the yoke and upper part of the armscye and added to the sleeve length. The armscye could be cut higher by about 2cm without affecting the chest at all. Picture...
Dopey, Would these Asian operations working with him ever found him without the igentry coverage? I doubt it very much. Hard work? Well neglecting existing customers and being dropped by many sartoria in Naples (his traditional field). The bottom line is that all this bubble serves to inflate his pricing and post like yours seems to justify and keep alive the myth so that even nice people still fantasise about getting an holy grail pair of trousers from him.... Well,...
This is the result of igent myths build up. The guy use to make outsourced trousers for sartoria at 70 euro a pop, and if approached directly, due to the extra client interaction, 150-300 euro cmt.. Now charging 1000 Euro? He should be sending commission to Michael Alden and Mafofan that basically created this myth...I get all my odd trousers bespoke and pay way less then some MTM places...
Both a marcella front or a pleated front are made as a bib and should be ideally made up in line with a jacket and waist covering to avoid bulk building up, both around the sides and bottom edges. Having said that, most RTW shirts have longer bibs that will end well under the cummerbund or waistcoat, so choosing either one will not resolve the problem, and actually the pleated front are slightly bulkier. I have a Charvet pleated front (RTW), a bespoke covered front placket...
I have bespoke, hand finished shirt, that are up to 5 years old and with no signs of frying or permanent stains, and have been mostly machine washed on delicate cycles with the pre-treating mentioned above. Responses from some members above about shirts being disposable and not caring for them IMHO are not applicable as response to the original question, which was about bespoke/hand finished shirts from this firm specifically, which would cost in the region of 150-300 euro...
First of all, fine wool trousers should not be washed but dry cleaned. I think the frequency depend from wearing condition but after only 2-3 wears seams too often
That is a Royal Air Force regimental tie if any reader is interested.To add some of my personal notes to this thread, the Duke himself wrote on how he gave one of his London made trousers (Foster &Sons of Bond Street) to a NYC tailor (H Harris) for him to copy, and as he did a good job, he then got all his trousers from him.I start to believe that after Scholte retired or passed away, the Duke may have done the same for jackets as other then the Jackets I saw at the V&A...
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