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Posts by marcodalondra

Believe it or not they would actually open (all buttons) the DB Dinner (or lounge) jacket when sitting down to eat.As a side note, I was personally kind of adverse to DB until last year because in my eyes it was the configuration of older gentlements, probably influenced by the fact that this was the favourite configuration of my grandfather. However, having been studying a lot of family pictures during a recent research, I actually noticed that he was wearing DB jackets...
I have worn my 18th birthday party suit for the following 6-8 years until I had to throw it out. My oldest suit currently in my rotation is from when I was 21/22 and was recently let out a bit at the back and I had a replacement pair of trouser made (and only because I had ripped them around one of the cuff and had also previously let out by 3cm around the waist). Ammazingly, Loro Piana still did the fabric in the same pattern and colour, albeit it moved from S120 to...
At least in Naples, womans involved in Sartorias' work may be specialised in buttonholes and other embroidery work, as the industry is very much male dominant. Different story for shirtmaking operations, where the opposite is true (mens are only involved in cutting and fitting if anything).
With reference to the suggestion of white waistcoat being fine because it was done in the 1930's, I would add that the white waistcoat can be worn, but it must be paired (and therefore cut for), very high rise trousers to look good. That was the way it was back then and it looked good as you would not see any white bits peaking from below the jacket buttoning point
This will happen at the same time as your advice will have a big fat disclaimer on where it is based on. Edit: and your answer on why 2 pieces suits are also acceptable does not counter on the fact that a three pieces SB and DB does not offer a meaningful difference in comfort level to justify your response in the first place So your sampling of less then an handful of correct low cut evening waistcoat RTW are satin makes it the norm for you? What about the majority of...
Another misconception: the good reason is that it looks best and people did open their DB jackets when sitting down.People still wear 3 pieces suit and there are no noticeable differences in Heath level between a SB and a DB jacket with today fabrics weight.What defines your norm? An online guide?
Yours may well be, but the ones from reputable tailors and wearers kept in museum or that have been shown on catalogues from the golden period, for the majority, were self faced. Take as an example the many of DoW that have survived (I think two or three are kept at the Met in NYC).IMO it would not look semless as in most light condition you could see a gap, and IMHO, at that point is better to have a clear different piece of clothing, that is however made in the fabric...
This is one of the reasons, after my "rebelling years" that i went back into classic mensmwear. My grandfather always wore a tie, even if he had to stay all day at home, when he probably would wear a wool/cashmere cardigan over the shirt and tie. When out, you could rarely see him without a hat. Although he was in his late 80's in the 1990's, and was generally very open minded on many aspects of modern life, but he always commented on how sloppy kids dressed nowadays...
One thing I do not get here is the fact that Black Tie's waistcoat are always referred to having lapels in the same materials as the lapels of the jackets (e.g. satin or grosgrain silk) as being the norm. All the museum pieces I have seen from notable tailors and bespoke wearer from early 1900 to 1960 had always the lapels in self facing fabric, never in silk satin or grosgrain.
O' Mast only featured a very small sampling of what the city has to offer. The Ciardi's family are very respectable and do produce a cleaner version of a Neapolitan jacket. Ciardi snr was Angelo Blasi apprentice and was "nominated" as his heir by Blasi himself. However, as far as I know, Ciardi or even Panico price point are not really set at entry level market.
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