or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by OTCtailor

Well then I guess the entire concept of the drape cut means bad fit? I digress... I know what you mean, but don't let the skin clinging slim fits of today make you think that the design of your clothes is wrong.
In the first photo, it looks like the model is pulling his shoulders backward in a pose. In a slim fitted jacket, there's obviously very little wearing ease over the chest (and the rest of the body), so much of any movement will create what may appear to be a fitting problem especially when photographed.However, if it's actually because of the posture of the person, lapel popping usually occurs for 2 reasons. 1 is that there may not be enough fullness over the fore parts...
 To answer the first question... No. Pleated trousers intentionally contain extra fullness in the lap to do precisely what yours are doing when you sit down!If you don't want that to happen, you need to have the pleats removed or buy flat fronts. Again, only loosely take the advice of folks in this thread who are not actual garment technicians. It only creates confusion.
To have this done right, you simply need to take it to a qualified tailor. The jacket and trousers need quite a bit of work to get them to a point where they'll fit.  Also, only very carefully and superficially take advice from anyone in this thread who does not actually make garments or take them apart/put them back together because they don't know what they're talking about. The folks you can listen to are: Despos, a tailor, jefferyd, Rory Duffy (these guys are all...
You're close to right except you probably wouldn't touch that CB seam. That would cause the vents to invert unless the seat of the jacket is simply way too large for your own. Go to the tailor's tutorials and find the thread on jacket waist suppression. It could be as simple as how you've drawn the green arrow or it could be a little more intense requiring a little skirt reduction at the front through the underseam that is intersected by the pocket.
 Def keep the 48R. Have the collar roll removed ( it is posture related). The jacket would require more front suppression so it doesn't pull around your sides. This is more involved than the normal sideseam adjustment. See the tailor's tutorials and look for the thread on jacket waist suppression. See the example where the front part only gets sucked in.With the pants, it's harder to tell because you had no pics for us to see but it's probably releasing the back part of...
We can't tell from the selfie.
They look to be too wide in the shoulders (esp the linen). Shoulders may not be sloped enough nor are they cut correctly---especially for the lower right shoulder. The prominent blades are really hard to get around and to some degree, you may always experience distortion in the back from them. Also, the back balance appears to be too long and not correctly adjusted for the swayback/forward hips. The jackets are falling down in the back and hitting your hips. Lots of work...
armhole distortion usually caused by tightness over the blades pulling at the armhole causing it to collapse. This creates excess vertical length at the sleeve cap.
This question is a little confusing...please clarify.
New Posts  All Forums: