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Posts by OTCtailor

Pitch is an issue of rotation relating to how forward or backward you naturally hold your arms. Also as to do often with the pitch of the shoulders.Fixing a jacket for forward shoulders is a pretty extreme alteration and may not even be possible with that jacket. I'd estimate the cost on rotating sleeves and adjusting for forward shoulders to be well in excess of $75.So the question is, will BL actually adjust the remade jacket for those fit issues? Some online MTM will...
Tough to say. I'd say it's not exactly classy to do that. To the tailor, it'd be like saying, "I trust your valuable advice, but not enough to make the purchase through you."Not to mention, the tailor may have no idea who/what/how the MTM house that's producing the garment is doing what they're doing.  If you came to me, I'd probably convince you to bail on the competition and do my best to match the price/fabric etc so that it makes sense. Maybe go to the tailor with that...
Starting with the jacket, the balance is ok but looks like the collar could be lowered a bit to relieve some of the rolls. The armholes are high but looks like there's just no drape back there behind your blades. A tailor may be able to let out under the armhole in the side body to push some of the drape back over the blades. The sleeves look off in pitch. They need to be rotated forward. The collapse of cloth over your front shoulders is either because your shoulders are...
No "budget" Isaia that I know of, but the collar of the jacket you have is simply a cheaper made collar.
Looks pretty good for off the rack. Vent width looks too narrow to cover your back side. Maybe the CB seam was adjusted for suppression because it looks like the vents are under tension from a short back balance. Probably both things combine. Pressing will help but may not totally do the job.
This is really not a process that should be done in this manner (by email and mail) BUT to me, the balance of the jacket is off slightly in that it's a little long in the back. You need a sway back/forward hips adjustment as well. Maybe even a little more slope to your shoulders. Don't know if the MTM suit is based off the cut of the trial suit or not. The button stance is also personal. shouldn't necessarily be placed at the most narrow part of the torso. It looks ok...
 With the Attolini, opening the quarters would help it look a little less boxy at first glance but it's more of a visual illusion. The jackets need more shaping done to the front of the jacket as opposed to the back to relieve the boxy look. It could be less than buying RTW new especially if you're buying KITON or Zegna, but make sure you have a good tailor. All of these jackets are likely full canvas and in order to put shape into the front of the garment, there's a...
First things first is correcting the balance of the jacket from side to side. Your right side is low so you can see the jacket collapsing on that side. A pad in the shoulder would level things out. Don't need to shorten the sleeves as that fix would also pick up the right sleeve.Next is the trousers. The balance is off there, too. Need to see how loose the seat is and see if reshaping the seat and straightening the curve/hollowing the curve would be acceptable. Then...
The backside of the pants probably require a reshaping of the seat and possibly lowering the back waistband to help with the wrinkles. It's an issue caused by forward hips and flat seat.
 No. The CB seam does not directly affect the chest fit. Letting it out would only elongate the back balance some and throw extra fullness over the blades.
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