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Posts by OTCtailor

I would lengthen 1/2 to 3/4, actually. Lowering the stance as is would, IMHBAO, make it look better than it currently does. However, lengthening and lowering the stance would create an altogether better aesthetic.
There are really no absolutes in the discussion of buttonstance. In my experience, it is almost entirely based on client's preference/comfort for where they button the coat. Going a bit high or a bit low would raise a warning flag that, as a tailor, you present to client and see what the response is. We can make anything, but should we? on a 3R2, it is best to think about designing it as a 2btn because it essentially is. That top button is obviously not meant to...
The bigger problem you'll deal with when looking at anything OTR in the shoulder department isn't so much that they're too big but that they're not sloped enough for your shoulders. When that is the case, the result is that they may feel and appear to be too big. So you have sloping and forward pitching shoulders, swayback, and perhaps a larger blade on the right than left. Yes, prominent seat but more importantly affecting the fit in that area is the swayback. Altering...
The Canali jacket is obviously too long in the sleeves. A good 1.5-2" too long. The total jacket length is passable. A little longer might be better for you but I wouldn't say this jacket is necessarily too short. Depends on your preferences. Also, if you went to the next size longer in this jacket, the body might be right on or perhaps a hair too long but the sleeves would be SO LONG that altering them to correct length will ruin the sleeve balance.What I'm saying is that...
Is this side profile the way you actually stand or are you leaning your head forward?
What does the jacket do when it's unbuttoned? Can you get pics of that?
Best to post some pics but the answer, presumably without pics, is yes. Understand that selvedge denim is sewn straight on the out seam in line with the selvedge meaning that there isn't much shape to the leg. It's a very straight leg on the outseam. Even selvedge boot cut are pretty straight for a boot fit. So they can be tapered but if you cuff them, you may deal with an outseam that has a look of a wider selvedge seam area.Personally, I have to do a ton of alterations...
It's relatively obvious that they were tapered more slim. We need to seea fit pic to determine how much to let out.
It needs more room over the blades. Have a tailor release the CB seam a little from the top of the neck down to the middle of the back. Maybe 3/8" total released. Then the back part of the shoulder seam only can be released about .25" or so max. The neck home must be shrunk in to match the collar size but it may provide a bit of shape over your upper back to relax the stress placed on the back of the armhole creating the divot. The other more extreme option is to have a...
#1) you are correct#2) it all depends on where you need the shaping. Sometimes closer to the center back works and sometimes closer to the side seams works. There is no functional disadvantage either way. In fact, on all my own shirts, I actually dart under the arm forward of the side seam because I have a lot of space under there created by wider lats. It makes the front fit better.
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