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Posts by OTCtailor

All fabric for shirts is woven which means there are warp and weft threads or length wise and cross wise. Like a micro grid, if you will. A garment that is well tailored always hangs 'on grain' or straight in line with the long grain of the weave. So how does this occur when you realize the body has curves? Well, that it's the art of fit, in essence. So dress shirts being made of cotton are naturally with less drape than the fine suiting wools we see today. If any garment...
Still too short to be worn casually but I suppose that's preference. Definitely need to relax or lower the armhole depth some or increase the chest of the shirt. Maybe a little of both. Sleeves that are slimmed require a higher armhole and therefore maybe harder to slim without the pulling effect across the chest.Can luxire adjust for posture? If so, that needs to be correct. Something else you can do is take a measurement of your fullback from one armpit to the other. Add...
Have you tailor perform what they call the "collar tuck". Really, the incline you selected is incorrect. Your posture is not "hunched" or erect. Hunched is for those guys who are older with serious stoop. With a future purchase, choose normal in that option. The sleeve wrinkles are due more to incorrect pitch than them being too full. The wrinkling occurs horizontally. Slimming the sleeve occurs vertically. The wrinkles will still be there.What else you can do is have a...
Replying from mobile Internet. My previous reply is embedded in the quotation somehow
Jacket is too short and because of that the button stance is quite high. The jacket is too tight across the chest and is so constricted that the front quarters are inverting using the buttoning point as a hinge. This is not acceptable for good fit. Also not really fixable in that jacket
Not by much and it is a pretty big job sometimes. If you can live with the sleeve width then leave it.
As you know, the back kicks out because of the back balance being a bit short. So, even if you take it in at the side seams or any other seam, it will still kick out....it'll just be tighter.The kick out is caused by tension starting at the top of the CB seam trying to travel over your blades with not enough total length. Despos' recommended fix of opening up the top, moving the back neckpoint etc is the best fix. Somehow, additional length has to find its way over your...
the guy on the right has shoulders that are more sloped which is what you're referring to. A tailor can have something like that made, but if your shoulders are more square than sloped it's not something you can or should do. What you can do is have a jacket made with little to no construction in the shoulder or perhaps a pagoda shoulder to create the illusion of slope for flattery but it's not an operation every tailor has the skill to accomplish.
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