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Posts by OTCtailor

I was almost tempted to argue that, but coming from you I guess I can't. Ha if anyone else said that I'd coke up with since philosophical response like "no, they always know what they want, they just need a human shovel known as a tailor to dig them out of their sartorial grave" Oh what a nerdi am on SF posting at 345 am. Or slightly drunk after a long day greatening my already semi head forward posture behind a needle and thread... And an iPad. What a tough life
See the few posts above with the gent describing the fly away lapels. Yours is really the same problem(s) except generally more extreme. Short front balance long back balance. Erect posture and barrel chest. Sloped shoulders need less width point to point and you need to relax the half girth to manage the drop from the shoulders to the waist. You're super wide up top. To flatter that you close the point to point a bit and actually open up the half girth. The long and short...
This isn't something I struggle with because my branding is set up in a way that effectively communicates to the rather wide variety of clients (or potential clients) that "Every Style Celebrated" (my branding tagline) means whether you're edgy and into bizarre fashion or your standards are in line with what is approved of on a forum like SF, you can get it from me.Too many brands/stores easily show themselves to cater to one side or the other. I can see the movement in...
Well in a business way, you just detach yourself emotionally from their choice. That's a level of maturity you reach early on in this biz. The next level is to find a way to become as emotionally invested as the client is even tho in your heart of hearts, you don't really like it.It creates a stronger draw from a wide variety of clients when they see that you serve a rather wide variety and not just the rogue or regular client.
To be honest I don't have too many clients whose desires or standards for tailoring are at level SF. Most of my clients who want stuff fitting close to the body are after tight clothes. I always put up the warnings and cautions because I abide by a real tailoring standard but at the end of the day my checks are signed by my clients and if they want it tight that's how they get it.
Well let's not forget its the client's interest in fashion that you see on display there.
One of my clients
Every MTM maker will have different ways of adjusting for stuff. It's not exactly standardized.Too long a strap on a jacket will also cause fanning of the lapels. You are correct with that. When that is present, you will not see the front quarters inverting/scissoring. They will close to their normal opening but the lapels will still fan away from the chest. You see it a lot on people who have a more stooping posture and no chest. The difference is easy to discern in your...
contrary to the poster before yours, the jacket is raising in the back as you can see because it's too short in the back balance for your posture and there is tension straight down the center seam and diagonally under the arms. That's probably the biggest flaw seen. The jacket may feel a little tight because of this.The fix is if there's enough outlet fabric available in the shoulder seams and under the collar to lengthen the back.Hard to say what you're experiencing with...
The pics I've left attached tell you the story. When the fronts of the jacket cross over or "scissor" from the button point downward and the chest is tight, it's mostly due to a short front balanceIn your case, the problem is only worsened by the prominent chest. Your other jackets have lapel darts to address the issue and that's done at the pattern stage. It cannot be altered once made. There's almost nothing that can save the jacket.The trousers are loose in the seat but...
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