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Posts by OTCtailor

To be honest I don't have too many clients whose desires or standards for tailoring are at level SF. Most of my clients who want stuff fitting close to the body are after tight clothes. I always put up the warnings and cautions because I abide by a real tailoring standard but at the end of the day my checks are signed by my clients and if they want it tight that's how they get it.
Well let's not forget its the client's interest in fashion that you see on display there.
One of my clients
Every MTM maker will have different ways of adjusting for stuff. It's not exactly standardized.Too long a strap on a jacket will also cause fanning of the lapels. You are correct with that. When that is present, you will not see the front quarters inverting/scissoring. They will close to their normal opening but the lapels will still fan away from the chest. You see it a lot on people who have a more stooping posture and no chest. The difference is easy to discern in your...
contrary to the poster before yours, the jacket is raising in the back as you can see because it's too short in the back balance for your posture and there is tension straight down the center seam and diagonally under the arms. That's probably the biggest flaw seen. The jacket may feel a little tight because of this.The fix is if there's enough outlet fabric available in the shoulder seams and under the collar to lengthen the back.Hard to say what you're experiencing with...
The pics I've left attached tell you the story. When the fronts of the jacket cross over or "scissor" from the button point downward and the chest is tight, it's mostly due to a short front balanceIn your case, the problem is only worsened by the prominent chest. Your other jackets have lapel darts to address the issue and that's done at the pattern stage. It cannot be altered once made. There's almost nothing that can save the jacket.The trousers are loose in the seat but...
This can be done much more successfully than if it had normal flapped pockets. Maybe a relatively expensive fix altogether but the end result if done correctly will be just fine
To some degree, this is accurate. If you have sloping shoulders And you're wearing a soft shoulder jacket, they may fall a little too much. There are limits to how sloped they can slope the shoulders before it becomes a matter of adding padding. My clients that have extreme shoulder slope get an extremely sloped jacket and at least a half inch of padding. Sometimes asking for that smaller halfback remedies the issue but this is not an easy thing to nail down with mtm much...
He may have let the stride out too much? Check the top of the inseam on the inside and look to see if it was altered there. If it looks like the inseam at the top has been let out in that there is no more fabric there to let it out, check the stitching to see if its been altered. When that area is being messed with, its not hard to accidently alter the run of the crotch if you're not careful.
No. In case you haven't noticed, the menswear industry is experiencing a nice little growth spurt and those of us who operate a tailoring business are, well, a little busy.We try to answer as fast as possible.
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