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Posts by Nick V.

Quote: Originally Posted by haganah silly question, but i assume you put these on when the sole is new and replace every time you re-sole, correct? and how long does it take to do? (ie can I stop by and get it done or is it a couple of days) New or lightly worn for best value. We prefer that you dropped them off. Here is a link posted by an AAAC member. That explains why we prefer to have some time to do the...
To answer a few questions. It's not necessary to have the sole guards. With or without them the toe pieces will flush to the surface when finished. They are $35.00 per pair OTC. Add $15.00 S&H for mail in orders. Two reasons they are not loud. As mentioned they are flush mounted also since they are screwed on they are much tighter. Added, because of the way they are applied it's nearly imposible to kick them off.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks to my friend Wes Bourne from SF (who volunteered to help me translate to French) the metal toe pieces finally arrived. I promised to post when they came in. Here is what they look like: This picture shows my own concept of maximum protection for longest wear. JR heel, Vibram sole guard and, metal toe pieces applied with brass screws. __________________ Nick...
Wear them a bit. If it still bothers you bring them to a reputable cobbler and have them install a pair of back liners.
Ecco's niche is comfort. When you try them on in a store they feel great. However, the soling material that they use tends to dry out quickly. When that happens the sole cracks or disintegrates. For those with Ecco's don't store them above normal heat or cold. That speeds up the deteriorating process. Also, try to wear them regularly.
Purchase a small can of rubber cement from an art supply store. Brush the cement over the stained area. Let set over night. Remove the cement with a piece of genuine crepe. You can find this at a local shoe repair shop. Repeat if necessary. Condition the shoes. A safer less effective way is to dot the stained area w/Talc powder, let sit, brush off and condition.
Quote: Originally Posted by NoVaguy I would get the AE Malvern. Alternatively, a decent cobbler might be able to glue a new sole onto the Calhoun if needed. I imagine the operation would involve slicing off what's left of the original sole, and then bonding a new rubber sole in place. Not sure if it could be done, though. Correct......We do several pair a week. Any reputable cobber does as well.
Agreed..... Also the tanning process tends to slightly dry out the leather. You may want to consider a treatment of waterproof before polish or conditioner. It's just a little extra protection.
Quote: Originally Posted by Gradstudent78 Was there rock salt on the ground? That can be pretty damaging to leather, although I'm not sure it would have this effect. Good point. Not intending to be derogatory. This is common with lower-grade leathers. they are loose grain which makes them porous. It looks like you have a mid-sole (maybe a pair of Kenmore's). If it weren't for the mid-sole water would soon begin to seep into the shoe through...
One of the purposes of a sole guard is to prevent the leather from wearing out. If you apply a sole guard to a sole that is worn out, soft or, spongy it will wear out immediately. In this case it's best to replace the leather sole and if you're inclined, add the sole guard.
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