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Posts by Nick V.

Unless of course brass nails are used. Brass being a softer metal will wear at pretty much the same rate as the leather lift. Because of that they won't slip or make noise.
Any competent cobbler would sand the rubber nubs even with the leather and cement a flat rubber sole on them. -Or- stitch a leather sole on them with a slight lift in the heel. They won't be like the original bottom but the shoe would be certainly serviceable.
The forepart of the sole does not appear to be leather. It also looks like you were walking in damp areas. That would also cause that sort of distortion.
http://www.mrketplace.com/62683/mens-wearhouse-jos-bank-reach-deal/
http://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB10001424052702304675504579391241012877548?mg=reno64-wsj&url=http%3A%2F%2Fonline.wsj.com%2Farticle%2FSB10001424052702304675504579391241012877548.html
http://www.mrketplace.com/62415/mens-wearhouse-jos-bank-non-disclosure-agreement/
Never use super-glue on leather. It dries it out and prevents it from being flexible. This most likely will cause the leather to crack.That sole is stitched with a lock stitch. Lock stitches are independent of each other meaning the stitching won't unravel like pulling a loose thread off a button.Your best bet is to burn the loose ends of the stitching (just briefly) with a match. Continue wearing them and keep an eye on the sole separating from the welt. If that happens...
I have no idea where that came from. Don't even have a welt stitching machine. Never did, my guys don't want one.
Oops....sorry I missed that. We hand stitch the welting into the existing holes. The soles ate stitched to the welt by machine. We try and match the holes in the welts. Never had any problems. If the shoe was re-welted it doesn't matter.
Not to me at least. Not an admission just a statement...nice finish!
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