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Posts by Nick V.

I know it as a "stitch puller". After the out-sole is removed a piece of leather is held on the bottom side of the welt supporting it. The welt is run around the stitch puller. It is crown shaped and the points of the stitch puller are what removes the stitching. But, I agree it is rough on the welt and could weaken the inseam thread.It's much safer to hand pick the stitching that remains on top of the welt.I don't see how a machine could be developed to remove the staples...
Agreed, I never intended to imply that the staples will support the structure of the shoe or give it any strength.They act sort of the same way pins work when you are building a balsa wood model. Except the pins are easily removed after the cement dries. In the case of factory method shoe making the staples sort of get embedded.
Yes, I understand that. I see staples remaining in the shoe all the time. I don't recall seeing a "factory" made shoe showing the process of the staples being removed. They certainly don't do it by hand and I know of no machine that does that process.
At the 35 second mark in this video you can see the gemming being attached to the underside of the insole. At about the 57 second mark you can see the upper being stapled to the last positioning and securing the two components so the welt can be attached. http://gearpatrol.com/2015/06/30/allen-edmonds-factory-tour/ Last I heard AE was manufacturing approx. 2600 pair of shoes per day.
Interesting video MWS. I really enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing.....
Interesting and thank you for your response.I know 10 years is relatively a short period of time but, it seems like you have been seriously involved/interested/studying custom made footwear and traditions for a lot longer than that.During your career in the shoe business (and currently) have you seen trends in terms of style, leathers, etc....You and I have established long ago on SF that making new (Bespoke) shoes and repair are two entirely different businesses.I see...
Fair enough comparison for me.....DW, I'm curious and I don't expect a definitive answer just an estimate.Of all the footwear you have made over the decades what would you say the order ratios would be dress shoes to dress boots to work boots? Have you seen trends?Merry Christmas and Happy Hunaka to those who are celebrating!
Thanks
DW.....Have you ever have a hold-fast fail? If so, how would you correct the problem? My guess would be, to do it the right way one would have to replace the insole. Is that the case?
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