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Posts by Nick V.

I completely agree with this^^^
IMO cementing and stitching is the correct way of doing it. It's less likely that the sole will separate that way. Even still from time to time it can fail. Not often though....When we get a pair where the sole was attached using cement only we Blake stitch the new sole on whenever possible.On GY welted shoes I always recommend a full sole and we replace the foot-bed as part of our process. Why shouldn't we? We already have the shoe apart and that allows us to smooth out...
Jerk needle and lock-stitch. The same for gemmed.
I must say....This is quite an accomplishment! http://tx.click.allenedmonds.com/hostedmessage/message.aspx?2424010.820608.10316703981.5468
I hate 1/2 soles. I wouldn't put them on my own shoes so I wouldn't use them on a customer's shoes.In this case the stitches should have been pulled from the top of the welt not the bottom. This way you are ensuring that no fragments are left behind unpicked. Also the cork wasn't even touched let alone removed and replaced. You can see when the original sole was removed some of the cork stuck to the underside of the sole. At the very least the cork should have been patched...
B and C are a bunt. D isn't a clear enough picture to tell. I will say this though...in all three cases if it's only the welt is damaged it would be replaced using the original holes. Of course stitched by hand. In all three (from what I can see in the pictures) there is essentially no difference than stitching a welt to a shoe that was gemmed.
Yet, that maker is of very high standards here on SF. Customers are willing to pay His prices. While I couldn't agree more with your theory that's not always what it is. I myself (and anybody that deals with the public) pretty much know the norms. Those with several years experience (even decades) know that certain customers will take more of your time than practical for you to service them. I know that, that sounds rude but, take my word for it, that's reality.......So,...
Yes but there is the pricing issue. As I mentioned, price-points are very important to most makers. In a conversation I had with a very, very high-grade maker I asked what is your pricing philosophy/formula? His response was unusual. That was, basically they price on delivery because in their market the customer is willing to pay whatever in order to get exactly what they want. We have worked on some of the exotics that they custom made (bespoke) that were priced at...
Regarding the name mentioning issue. IMO, everybody is entitled to set their own policies that they adhere to within there own industry. We all have our reasons, those reasons are nobody's business but your own. And, if you don't care to make those reasons public, you have every right not to. After-all it's your livelihood, nobody else's. In my case I am constantly asked my opinion on the best made shoe. That's a loaded question. Most companies are concerned to stay...
For the life of me I could never understand why some insist on letting polishes and or conditioners dry..... All you are doing is complicating what should be a simple task. The longer you leave those products to dry the more likely it is that they will "set". Once that happens it's much more difficult to remove the residue from (esp) small creases.
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