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Posts by Mark Seitelman

I agree with Mr. Johnnynorman3. Oxxford puts out a heck of a product on an assembly-line basis. I have found the product equal and in some ways better than my Savile Row stuff. I heard that some Anderson & Sheppherd people inspected the Oxxford product at the factory and found that the product equalled the Anderson suit from the quality of the workmanship. I heard that they were very impressed. If you were to walk into a clothing factory, as I have done, you would find a...
I would be very surprised if Oxxford were a non-union shop considering that it is an old shop dating from the 1920's in an old, union town, Chicago. Greenfield's worker's are unionized. I believe that Savile Row's workers are either unionized or are virtually unionized. I do not know if non-union workers are better than unionized ones. It is naive to think that a tailor sewing in a factory is a great artiste. Tailors and other workers in garment factories are WORKERS....
Truman and Eisenhower were the last presidents to wear double breasted suits on a regular basis. I believe that you would be very hard-pressed to find photos of JFK, LBJ, Nixon, or their successors in DB. I'm not sure if Bush, Sr., wore three button suits. He wore, inter alia, J. Press and Brooks.
Great article and great photo.
The "HF" on the metal closure has nothing to do with Hickey Freeman or H. Freeman & Son. I have that "HF" on other USA suits. Incidentally, I just check a suit from a famous "custom" tailor (which is made by Greenfield), and it has the "HF". Hickey does not manufacture for Brooks, and as far as I know it never did. Martin Greenfield makes the Golden Fleece (USA made) and MTM. Look inside the right, inside pocket of the coat. If there's a UNITE tag (the clothing union),...
I'm a loyal Oxxford customer, and I know the product very well. If you have to shorten the sleeve from the cuff and if there are no operable buttonholes, then this should not be an unduly complicated alteration. I cannot comment on the reasons why you might need to take-off the sleeve and shorten the sleeve from the top. However, if you need to do this you need a top notch tailor who will hand-stitch the sleeve back onto the shoulder and do all of the other hand work...
Dear Horace: I believe that hand stitching is mostly aesthetic on the edge of the collar, lapels, and pockets. It serves no real purpose. I believe that you do not need stitching at all, and that those edges can be either machine stitched or bluff stitched. It can be argued that these areas need hand stitching in order to be more flexible in that hand stitching is more flexible at areas which are rounded or curved (e.g., the collar and lapels). In comparison, the...
I know a shoe salesman at Barneys, and Mephisto's are one of his favorite shoes. He says that they are the most comfortable shoes. He spends most of the day on his feet either standing or running to the stockroom. I have two pair. They are the most comfortable shoes that I own. I favor them for casual wear. Fortunately, I find traditional footwear comfortable, and I have no fit problems. Therefore, most of the time I wear traditional, English shoes. However, if you have...
On the pick-stitching on the lining, my first bespoke suit and sportscoat from a London tailor had this type of hand stitching. Then, my remaining orders did not. I suspect that the shop had a different tailor sew my subsequent orders and that tailor did not employ pick-stitching. I understand that an individual tailor would sew my coat from beginning to end. The deletion of the stitching leads me to believe that this tailor did not deem it essential to either the fit or...
I bought a suit with an extra trouser at Brooks MTM (Greenfield). The cloth was from Loro Piana. A dark blue, not quite a navy blue. I like it very much. It keeps its shape and does not wrinkle. I was tempted to buy a linen, but I was afraid of the wrinkle factor. The salesman recommended silk. It is very comfortable in the heat. It's a beautiful suit, and David Simone did an excellent fitting/finishing. It's a dressy suit. It is not shiney. It can be worn in...
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