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Posts by Mark Seitelman

I have had DB suits from Alan Flusser Custom, Alan Flusser/Coppley (MTM), Brooks Brothers, Oxxford, and Davies & Son. Hands down, Oxxford has the best workmanship regarding the stitching in between the peak and lapel and the collar. It consists of two twisted silk threads (similar to the flower keeper) cross-stitched to form an "X". The stitching of some of my other suits has come apart. It's not something that someone looks for when buying a suit. I mention it as only...
I just checked an Oxxford suit that I am wearing, and, indeed, the UNITE label is discreetly folded and tucked into the left inside pocket of the coat. It is very easy to miss. Therefore, we have Exhibit A that Oxxford is unionized. I do not think that you will find a major, factory made suit in the USA without the UNITE label. That also includes the quality manufacturers in Canada. I also know that the tailors in the major stores, such as Brooks, are unionized. I'm...
When I was heavier I had to wear MTM and bespoke. I had been a Turnbull & Asser bespoke customer. I wanted to try a Pink shirt since it is much cheaper than T & A. BTW, I couldn't fit into RTW T & A even after my weight loss. I could fit into a RTW Pink. After buying and wearing a Pink RTW and comparing it against my T & A's, Pink is definitely in the "B" (good) or second tier level. T & A is in the "A" (excellent) level. I have come to this conclusion based on the...
I agree with Mr. Johnnynorman3. Oxxford puts out a heck of a product on an assembly-line basis. I have found the product equal and in some ways better than my Savile Row stuff. I heard that some Anderson & Sheppherd people inspected the Oxxford product at the factory and found that the product equalled the Anderson suit from the quality of the workmanship. I heard that they were very impressed. If you were to walk into a clothing factory, as I have done, you would find a...
I would be very surprised if Oxxford were a non-union shop considering that it is an old shop dating from the 1920's in an old, union town, Chicago. Greenfield's worker's are unionized. I believe that Savile Row's workers are either unionized or are virtually unionized. I do not know if non-union workers are better than unionized ones. It is naive to think that a tailor sewing in a factory is a great artiste. Tailors and other workers in garment factories are WORKERS....
Truman and Eisenhower were the last presidents to wear double breasted suits on a regular basis. I believe that you would be very hard-pressed to find photos of JFK, LBJ, Nixon, or their successors in DB. I'm not sure if Bush, Sr., wore three button suits. He wore, inter alia, J. Press and Brooks.
Great article and great photo.
The "HF" on the metal closure has nothing to do with Hickey Freeman or H. Freeman & Son. I have that "HF" on other USA suits. Incidentally, I just check a suit from a famous "custom" tailor (which is made by Greenfield), and it has the "HF". Hickey does not manufacture for Brooks, and as far as I know it never did. Martin Greenfield makes the Golden Fleece (USA made) and MTM. Look inside the right, inside pocket of the coat. If there's a UNITE tag (the clothing union),...
I'm a loyal Oxxford customer, and I know the product very well. If you have to shorten the sleeve from the cuff and if there are no operable buttonholes, then this should not be an unduly complicated alteration. I cannot comment on the reasons why you might need to take-off the sleeve and shorten the sleeve from the top. However, if you need to do this you need a top notch tailor who will hand-stitch the sleeve back onto the shoulder and do all of the other hand work...
Dear Horace: I believe that hand stitching is mostly aesthetic on the edge of the collar, lapels, and pockets. It serves no real purpose. I believe that you do not need stitching at all, and that those edges can be either machine stitched or bluff stitched. It can be argued that these areas need hand stitching in order to be more flexible in that hand stitching is more flexible at areas which are rounded or curved (e.g., the collar and lapels). In comparison, the...
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