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Posts by Mark Seitelman

Two reputable clothing establishments (both 2nd generation) that can make a suit for about $1,000 (depending on cloth selection): 1. LS Mens Clothing on W. 45th St.; and 2. Mr. Ned on lower Fifth Ave. Both establishments have no frills premises upstairs in office buildings. Mr. Ned is basically an open workshop. I have used LS, and I recommend them highly.
You're not buying real estate. Just a sportscoat.As for the "JFK magic", I think that JFK had a patent on that. However, there is something magical about continuing the tradition with one of the great extant tailoring families from the golden age of Ivy League clothing.
First, I am sorry to hear that your sportscoat is not the same after a cleaning. However, the dry cleaner may not be responsible. Jos. A. Bank uses cheap cloths and workmanship which may not withstand cleaning. As for a the smoke smell, I understand that smoke may permeate a garment and may not be removed easily or at all. That is why clothing can be damaged by smoke from a fire even though the clothes neither get burned, singed, nor doused with water. On the smoke...
In my opinion, nothing equals a tropical wool. I have never heard that it does not hold lighter colors. I have light colored tropical wool trousers. A linen suit looks like you took it out of the laundry hamper. At one time I liked the look, but now I don't. Cotton wrinkles less, but it doesn't have the smartness of wool. However, you may opt for cotton as a compromise if you want a less formal texture than wool. Good luck.
Congratulations. So the life of a detective is not all glamour and English manor houses? So it is more like Dirty Harry than Hercule Peirot? As a working detective you will have to a little more thrifty since you can "mix it up." When you get to be police commissioner you can dress like Ray Kelly, the former commissioner of NYPD, i.e., double breasted suits made for him by Martin Greenfield and Charvet ties from Bergdorf Goodman. Since your job can be physical and...
I cannot comment on pricing, but a bespoke tailor in the countryside is Andrew Musson of Lincoln. See www.andrewjmusson.com. Musson used to be with Davies & Son of Savile Row. I used to see him on Davies's visits to New York. He returned to Lincoln to take-over the family business. He is the real deal.
As a general rule, an overcoat is about the same price as a two piece suit. The number of fittings depends upon the tailor, whether you demand multiple fittings, and any special or unusual fit issues (e.g., hunchback). My tailor requires two sessions. First is to measure and place the order. The second is the basted fitting. From there, the coat is finalized. Good luck.
I think that a navy poplin suit from Brooks would be fine. Brooks is on sale now.It used to be the business uniform when I started working in the 1970's. It is not the most elegant suit, but it was acceptable in the 1970's and 1980's when men had to wear suits, period.I would stay away from the olive green suit in that it is a little too informal. If they have one in grey, then you have your summer wardrobe.I would stay away from seersucker since the courthouse is...
On my one coat with a silk lining (I believe from the Richard Weldon books), I agree that it is warmer than Bemberg.I chose a silk paisley for a navy blazer since the colors and design were much more vibrant than the Bemberg choices. However, if I were to try it again I would think twice about it, and I would limit it to a winter sportscoat due to the warmth. I would never consider it for a summer suit. Ironically, I find Dupioni silk the coolest summer cloth. I...
My understanding is that the lining adds some body allowing it to hang properly. Otherwise, it will wrinkle-up like shirt fabric. I would be reluctant to discard a perfectly good lining. But, it is a free country. It is a $200-300 job.
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