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Posts by deadAngle

Any clothes matching app worth its salt must be able to calculate the optimal shirt collar and tie knot combination to match the height of the gorge and the breadth of the lapel - subtly balancing the innate curves it detects in your jacket's lapel with the pattern and fabric of your tie. And ho! So must it also calculate how the cut of your pants interact with the finely suppressed waist of your jacket, and also notify you when it is time to go to the tailor. Any failure...
Considering that the whole rig cost me about $250 with the most expensive item being the shirt, I do agree that there's a lot of room for improvement in the shoe department.  If I'd had a higher budget for it, I'd probably go for either proper pumps or cap toe balmoral boots. I'm not a fan of plain toe for a number of reasons.
Polished calf plain black leather soled captoes, maker unknown. They're not so special to me so I forgot to mention them.
For the record, I did make an effort to place the tie in front of the collar when putting everything on, and gave up when I realized that with the angle of the collar points, the tie would be bending forward at an acute angle and that it certainly wouldn't be able to hold its forward position through the night.  Perhaps this collar was intended for morning dress?
  Speaking of wing collars, the number I wore out to the Nutcracker. Luxire linen detachable collar tuxedo shirt, antique starched collar, antique Swank smoked MOP shirt studs and links, and an early 1930s tuxedo with silk damask buttons, link front, and double-breasted shawl collar vest.
 That's a very common size for antique/vintage tuxedos, though - you should be able to find one on eBay in good shape and good quality well within your budget.
People buttoned their coats every which way in the Edwardian period - I've seen plenty of photos of people with just the bottom or the bottom two buttons of a three button jacket buttoned as well as all of the buttons or just letting the jacket hang open.  However, the top button only style is mostly carried over from the late Victorian period where it was exceedingly common.  How you buttoned your jacket was down to personal choice more than anything - there was no real...
Patch pockets with flaps were more for summer suits (less layers of fabric) or when the patch pockets were pleated/gusseted for holding lots of things securely on hunting jackets.  It's a more consistent look than two open patch pockets combined with a standard breast pocket.
That's down to both personal choice and the actual angle of your hips. Suspenders would help prevent the front from sliding down and crumpling if you had particularly angled hips.
This topic will not be complete without a sock thrown in there for extra sprezz.
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