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Posts by Andrew Ryan

 Generally speaking, you want to condition the leather, then use cream first (of similar shade of brown), buff, and then apply a wax polish (how much depending on your tastes, how long since last polish, and - also use of similar shade) and buff it, followed by a a chamois cloth or similar fiber-free cotton to give it a mirror shine (if that's what you're after - a mirror shine, that is). Cream is more for nourishment and color of the leather, and wax more for polish per...
I saw on some thread awhile back that 'front lining (whether to knee or bottom) is not recommended for cotton trousers' - I've searched for that thread and been unable to find it, but I do not recall any rationale being stated for why.   I prefer all my wool and linen trousers lined, but have been moving towards more cotton twill for my bespoke trousers (Luxire) - so far I've heeded this advice, but before I drop $ on replacing them with lined ones - any particular...
I saw on some thread awhile back that 'front lining (whether to knee or bottom) is not recommended for cotton trousers' - I've searched for that thread and been unable to find it, but I do not recall any rationale being stated for why.   I prefer all my wool and linen trousers lined, but have been moving towards more cotton twill for my bespoke trousers (Luxire) - so far I've heeded this advice, but before I drop $ on replacing them with lined ones - any particular...
+1 I think the key is to have any pair of trousers you're going to wear w/o crease and casually be cut like chinos/cords/moleskines should be (whatever that means to you; I use a totally different set of measurements for my MTM casual trousers vs. dress trousers). Simply taking a wool dress pant (regardless of how slim or whatever) and ironing out the crease / giving it a side crease / whatever is not going look right, at least in most cases, by my estimation, as the cut...
I was wondering about this same topic (wearing slim lightweight wool trousers casually w/o crease) and I think it's doable assuming the cut is right, the fabric relatively matte, and some of the other productive suggestions people have made. That said, I'm not responding simply because I agree that it's possible (assuming said variables tuned properly); I found this thread researching said topic and was immediately struck by the same kind of thing I've gotten in some of my...
Hey guys, apologies if this has been addressed before but I didn't see much about it on the thread (could've missed though).    I wear a 7.5 UK on both the Capital last (which fits perfectly pretty much) and the 026 last (too wide but serviceable). I'm looking at a pair of pennies from Loake (probably the Eton in brown suede) and am wondering about fit - in all loafers from every maker (U.S., Italy) I've ever worn, I size 1/2 down from my lace-up size for a snug fit and...
Haven't worn the Meermins in rain yet, just got them - but the Loakes are great in the rain, and cursory inspection reveals no obvious difference between the two.
Pair of Loakes with Dainite sole vs Meermin's 'genuine double rubber' sole:    
A question: anyone have any experience with classic collection suede in the rain? I don't wear my nicer suede oxfords in the rain, but these DO have a double rubber sole, and I don't mind beating them up a bit (but not too much). Is the idea of a dedicated rain shoe in suede stupid, or does Meermin's suede hold up okay to rain? FWIW I've already brushed them and treated them with two rounds of protective spray.
Just my two (or three) cents on the Hiro last vs. Loake Capital last, in case anyone else was searching for info on that (I found a good bit here before ordering) - the Capital last is one of the few balmoral oxfords I've found that fits me well (as well as having a pleasing last shape to my preferences) in terms of instep, allowing the laces to completely close. The Hiro last oxfords do not, which I can't stand at all (I knew it was a risk when I ordered them, but at that...
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