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Posts by dirnelli

Hugo has very broad shoulders compared to a very thin waist, he would be like drop 11 in RTW sizing, hence your impression. His Cifo suits are house cuts not special requests.
http://parisiangentleman.fr/2014/11/20/guillaume-lancelot-maroquinerie-sur-mesures-a-paris/ My latest article for PG, on bespoke leather goods by G. Lancelot in Paris (in French). It's closer to the topic anyway.
Derailers -- this thread has regrouped some of the most knowledgeable members of SF, who are actual bespoke customers as opposed to some other SF pundits, so I think I'm speaking for all of us when I ask you to take your discussion of African dictators onto another thread that you can create devoted to the topic. The long and short of it is: A) some bespoke clients pay in cash and never even give their name, if you catch my drift... B) even those customers get to see their...
@Kuro -- any pics to share of your own Cifo and CdL commissions?
No, this one was cut by Lorenzo on a Rousseau pattern. The open quarters look may be due to camera angle and hanger, bear that in mind. I don't remember advising against getting a CdL cut from Cifo. I just figure might as well go for the original, and stick with Cifo's own style if you order there.
Back on topic: Contrary to popular beleif, Cifonelli also proposes the traditional fishmouth lapel (cran parisien), as in the example above, cut from Claude Rousseau's patterns. Rousseau worked for Camps de Luca, then set out on his own, before being later acquired by Cifonelli. So we can here see an example of a Cifonelli suit based on a Camps de Luca design. As I've stated before, one can go to Cifo for a Camps-like suit, but the reverse is not true.
Smalto IMHO
@SeamasterLux I first had to get back to the country to access my proper tweed & fat wale cords:
Vintage Camps de Luca bespoke Courtot bespoke Edward Green PS. I'm not sure how to make pics larger on SF when I upload from an iPhone, sorry.
Lucca does the scissor-to-collar schtick. Courtot does not. Mary Frittolini probably does it too, judging from @SeamasterLux's shirt with customized rounded collar.
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