or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by MoneyWellSpent

I would define it as achieving the best fit possible by whatever means make the most sense. In other words, not sacrificing quality for expediency. I may be mistaken, as DW said, and it may be possible to achieve the same fit using Goodyear-welting, but it doesn't seem likely or people would be doing it.
Thanks. Seems strange that nobody is doing it. Not that I'm advocating for it by any means.
For what it's worth, I don't believe for a second that there is a synthetic material on existence that serves as a replacement for the desirable characteristics of leather for footwear purposes. Possibly some characteristics, but certainly not all in one product.
As far as I know, a truly bespoke shoe can't be made using Goodyear-welting. Sure, you could use a custom made last, and come close, but I feel like I remember reading that despite a valiant effort, it wouldn't quite fit as well due to the lack of control in the mechanized inseaming process. DW, can you comment on that? I feel like if it were possible to make a truly bespoke shoe using mechanized construction methods, then many of these Northampton firms would be more...
G&G bespoke is definitely handwelted. Their website is just referring to their RTW line.This is a bespoke G&G:
Only on a technicality though.This is the "original" method of Goodyear-welting that you are referring to.The canvas gemming originated because the thin cut and turned lips of leather were too thin and became brittle after only a short period of wear (shorter than the life expectancy for a quality shoe). So, the solution was to reinforce the thin leather with canvas. That's what gemming used to mean. Even then, it was an attempt to replicate the carved holdfast from a...
Stitching the canvas to the insole would only do so much in a case of true gemming failure, simply due to the nature of fabric. It would have to be stitched with several rows of thread to hold the full width of the "tape" in place. Otherwise, it could still move around and throw off the shape/size of the shoe when the outsole is taken off during a resole.Also, one of the claimed "pros" for Goodyear-welting amongst machine made shoes is that they have a smooth insole...
Here you go. This is under a very bright light. Some very subtle variation in the threads can be seen.This picture makes it look more red than it really is. The original outdoors photo is true color.
Something more like this would be your taste then?
I was mostly surprised by the idea of it being too "shiny." I think I would struggle to get it to shine even with a direct flash. Tweeds don't require an equally heavy textured tie. Sometimes a tie of equally heavy texture can look one dimensional, which in fact, is why I chose this tie today. I was wearing grey flannels, and had considered a solid gray cashmere tie, but decided that I didn't want to look fuzzy all over. Regimental stripes in a non-pure silk weave...
New Posts  All Forums: