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Posts by CrimsonSox

The softly rolled lapel.  The Duke's jackets had a gentler waist suppression than you might expect from jackets today.  The elegance of the jacket comes less from a suppressed waist, and more from a beautiful shoulder.  It's neither too sloped nor too straight; it's smooth and well-made; and it's precisely proportioned in width to his head.  Compare Mr. Disney's suit shoulder, which is artificially straight and too wide, or the King of Jordan's shoulder, which is cut too...
Holy sh*t you will not believe who I saw at Pitti Uomo.    
Interesting observation from Colin Heywood of Anderson and Sheppard: their trousers traditionally averaged 21 inches (10.5 inches measured on one side) at the knee, and 18 inches (9 inches measured on one side) at the leg opening: http://www.savilerow-style.com/issue018/style04.htm  A friend who's had clothes made at Henry Poole also had trousers with those measurements.     However, Heywood notes that a 20 inch (10 inch on one side) knee with a 17 inch (8.5 inch on one...
I like trim pants, as long as the front crease falls neatly.  The crease is bunched up in Craig's pants, and I doubt the issue is his wearing long johns or thigh length socks.
I can appreciate the slimming effect of slender trouser legs, but there's a drawback to their being too narrow. The front crease does not fall neatly, but tends to bunch up in front of the shins or knees as the fabric clings to the leg. Here are a few examples, starting with President Hollande:           By contrast, the trousers in the following picture are tapered and trim, but they are full enough to fall more cleanly, with a crisp front crease.   
Since you're in Florence, you might want to take a look at one of the rarest and most important books on tailoring by Domenico Caraceni.  Caraceni of course is considered the father of Italian tailoring, and the book is his master treatise.  It's extremely hard to find.  The only copy I could locate in the Italian library network is in the National Central Library in Florence: http://tinyurl.com/k446psp    The title is Orientamenti Nuovi Nella Tecnica e Nell'arte del...
Pictures from a recent Camps de Luca fitting, taken from a Chinese site:        
Thanks for the tip Marco.  I looked up your recommended fabric, Grandi & Rubinelli, and found an interesting thread from Shirtmaven: http://www.styleforum.net/t/162089/who-cares-about-riva-grandi-rubinelli-is-my-new-best-friend
The Duke of Windsor in Boston, 1943:     The perfectly proportioned shoulder:           Chalk stripes:     Wallis Simpson's favorite photograph of the Duke:     In living color -- bolder than you think:     Not always vented.  Note that the trousers have no break:     The Prince of Tweed:        A suit that fits in motion:  
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