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Posts by CrimsonSox

I like trim pants, as long as the front crease falls neatly.  The crease is bunched up in Craig's pants, and I doubt the issue is his wearing long johns or thigh length socks.
I can appreciate the slimming effect of slender trouser legs, but there's a drawback to their being too narrow. The front crease does not fall neatly, but tends to bunch up in front of the shins or knees as the fabric clings to the leg. Here are a few examples, starting with President Hollande:           By contrast, the trousers in the following picture are tapered and trim, but they are full enough to fall more cleanly, with a crisp front crease.   
Since you're in Florence, you might want to take a look at one of the rarest and most important books on tailoring by Domenico Caraceni.  Caraceni of course is considered the father of Italian tailoring, and the book is his master treatise.  It's extremely hard to find.  The only copy I could locate in the Italian library network is in the National Central Library in Florence: http://tinyurl.com/k446psp    The title is Orientamenti Nuovi Nella Tecnica e Nell'arte del...
Pictures from a recent Camps de Luca fitting, taken from a Chinese site:        
Thanks for the tip Marco.  I looked up your recommended fabric, Grandi & Rubinelli, and found an interesting thread from Shirtmaven: http://www.styleforum.net/t/162089/who-cares-about-riva-grandi-rubinelli-is-my-new-best-friend
The Duke of Windsor in Boston, 1943:     The perfectly proportioned shoulder:           Chalk stripes:     Wallis Simpson's favorite photograph of the Duke:     In living color -- bolder than you think:     Not always vented.  Note that the trousers have no break:     The Prince of Tweed:        A suit that fits in motion:  
By the 1960s, the Brooks Brothers evening shirt had switched to cotton.  I suppose it had to do with the expense of linen.  I'd be curious though if any linen formal shirting was still available, or if it's one of those vanished luxuries.  
A surprise to black or white tie wearers today is that formal evening shirts were once made primarily in linen. This example is from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, was made in 1900, and belonged to the last Czar:   Source: http://metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/156983?pos=110&rpp=20&pg=6&rndkey=20131012&ao=on&ft=*&deptids=8 Evening shirts from Brooks Brothers in the 1910s were made of linen as well:  Same in the Brooks Brothers of the 1940s:  
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